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    Clutch choices

    Whats the best clutch for the bros (hawk gt) ?
    I have an EBC clutch which is burnt out alot.
    Does honda still make the plates and if so can they take alot of abuse ?

    #2
    OE is best in my opinion.
    '95 ShaftHawk 650P>
    Front: Bros Mk2 front wheel; Mk1 forks; MetalGear disc; NC30 caliper; cb1 yoke.
    Breathing: Hacked up and shortened ART tri-can on collector and link pipe from DemonTweeks.
    Other: RGV bars; DefT dash; modded subframe; modded rearsets; relocated ignition.

    '91 Bros 650 Mk1>
    Currently off the road.

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      #3
      My clutch appears to be approaching the end of its life. What sort of price should I be looking to pay to get it replaced at the bike shop?
      '88 Bros NT650J
      Progressive fork springs, '93 CBR600 F2 fork caps, CBR900RR rear shock, Puig 'Raptor' fly screen
      Fabitappi Monoposto seat cover, Heated grips, Braided brake lines, Buell indicators/turn signals
      Ceramic coated stock headers with custom Yoshi shorty muffler & Muzzy collector

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        #4
        About 90 quid for parts and a couple of hours to fit.
        '95 ShaftHawk 650P>
        Front: Bros Mk2 front wheel; Mk1 forks; MetalGear disc; NC30 caliper; cb1 yoke.
        Breathing: Hacked up and shortened ART tri-can on collector and link pipe from DemonTweeks.
        Other: RGV bars; DefT dash; modded subframe; modded rearsets; relocated ignition.

        '91 Bros 650 Mk1>
        Currently off the road.

        Comment


          #5
          +1 on using Honda plates. It's what I used to replace mine at around 35,000 miles, and she's reading 66,000 now with no trouble. Mind you, it'll start slipping on my way home tonight...


          Originally Posted by Swipe
          My clutch appears to be approaching the end of its life. What sort of price should I be looking to pay to get it replaced at the bike shop?
          It's not too hard to do, really. You can even do it without draining the oil, if you've changed it recently. You're in Stoke IIRC? I'm in Chester and would be willing to lend you my garage and assistance if you wanted to come up one day.

          As far as price, David Silver do the OEM kit for £44 including springs. Oh, and you'll want a new gasket, they do them for [browses over to D.S.]£6. I would expect to pay £100 or possibly more to have it done in a shop, including parts.

          E

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            #6
            Originally Posted by SkinnE
            It's not too hard to do, really. You can even do it without draining the oil, if you've changed it recently. You're in Stoke IIRC? I'm in Chester and would be willing to lend you my garage and assistance if you wanted to come up one day.
            Yep, I'm in Stoke. Wow, thanks for the offer Eric, much appreciated. I'll keep my eye on it over the next few weeks (it's not slipping badly atm) but may well take you up on your kind offer if that is ok. My Bros has 60,000 KM on it and I believe it still has the original clutch so I take it is due for a change sometime soon.
            '88 Bros NT650J
            Progressive fork springs, '93 CBR600 F2 fork caps, CBR900RR rear shock, Puig 'Raptor' fly screen
            Fabitappi Monoposto seat cover, Heated grips, Braided brake lines, Buell indicators/turn signals
            Ceramic coated stock headers with custom Yoshi shorty muffler & Muzzy collector

            Comment


              #7
              44 quid for oem bits is a snip. Sure mine were 70 quid plus springs (8 quid ?) and gasket and that was 4 years or more ago.

              For what it's worth I remember the springs were shot before the plates but you may as well do both while it's opened up.
              '95 ShaftHawk 650P>
              Front: Bros Mk2 front wheel; Mk1 forks; MetalGear disc; NC30 caliper; cb1 yoke.
              Breathing: Hacked up and shortened ART tri-can on collector and link pipe from DemonTweeks.
              Other: RGV bars; DefT dash; modded subframe; modded rearsets; relocated ignition.

              '91 Bros 650 Mk1>
              Currently off the road.

              Comment


                #8
                Here's a stupid question... How do you know if you're clutch is on its way out?
                Sundad acoustic guitar duo
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                  #9
                  Originally Posted by Johnny5 View Post
                  Here's a stupid question... How do you know if you're clutch is on its way out?
                  For me it was revs rising 'too fast' as I put power on.
                  '95 ShaftHawk 650P>
                  Front: Bros Mk2 front wheel; Mk1 forks; MetalGear disc; NC30 caliper; cb1 yoke.
                  Breathing: Hacked up and shortened ART tri-can on collector and link pipe from DemonTweeks.
                  Other: RGV bars; DefT dash; modded subframe; modded rearsets; relocated ignition.

                  '91 Bros 650 Mk1>
                  Currently off the road.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Barnett Clutch http://www.barnettclutches.com/

                    I have them in the race bike.

                    As far as know when things are going. I have never really had a clutch go on me. But I am not experiencing the strong enging braking going into turns as I used to. I am guessing that it is finially time to change the clutch in 4 years of racing.
                    Last edited by nt650hawk; 08-22-2008, 07:00 AM.
                    Gino
                    Chain Roller

                    NEVER UNDERESTIMATE THE PREDICTABILITY OF STUPIDITY

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                    2008 CCS ULSB National Champion
                    LRRS HAWK GT Racer CCS Expert #929
                    ECK RACING

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                      #11
                      Originally Posted by Johnny5 View Post
                      Here's a stupid question... How do you know if you're clutch is on its way out?

                      Usually on a motorcycle it starts to slip when you shift fast or try to accelerate from an RPM and the engine is reving faster than the back tire is turning. You will notice it......

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