Throwing this out here.

[racerboy4]

Hey yall,
I have a f2/f3 tank mod. My pod filters keep getting squished and I was wondering if I could possibly raise the tank a touch for optimum air flow? Can I use the original tank rubbers to raise it? Also can a 170 fit on the rear without modification?

[6]

Hey yall,
I have a f2/f3 tank mod. My pod filters keep getting squished and I was wondering if I could possibly raise the tank a touch for optimum air flow? Can I use the original tank rubbers to raise it? Also can a 170 fit on the rear without modification?

They will get squished. It's just how it goes, the bike should still breath fine like that.

Can you fit a 170? Ya. You should be able to.

The real question is should you fit a 170? no.

It will not fit a 4.5" wheel well at all. Tire profile will be really bad. Handling will suffer. .

Hawk isn't a heavy bike and it does not make a lot of power, it doesn't need a big tire, thus Honda selling it with small wheels. . Mashing a big tire on is just excess rotating weight, a distorted tire profile and "slower" poorer handling if you do it.

Stock sizes are good on the stock rims.

With a vfr 5" you can go to a 160/165 and be good. With a larger wheel, the 5.5 vfr, or some such wheels or something, then you can go 170+ but again, the hawk doesn't need all that tire, can't really make use of it. . .

I've ridden some hawks with 170's and even a 180 that felt good. But they had larger wheels, lighter wheels, and both had substantial engine work done to them before throwing the bigger wheel/tires on them. (Still not sure they "needed" all that tire. But do we really "need" many of the things we do you these bikes?)

If the goal is just to make it look different, then ya, but I'd suggest larger wheels to fit the larger tires. And somewhere around a 180 you may have to deal with some rubbing, and maybe some trimming or grinding to make it fit.

[ParcNHawk]

160 on a stock wheel. With a 170 you lose a lot of the racy sport tires that are available in 160 and 180+. The only reason to go 170 is if you're on a 5.5" wheel and run a more touring oriented tire like a Michelin Road 5.

As far as the tank... beat it the underside to dent it. Don't beat it too much or you'll thin the metal and it can crack. NEVER heat it. Heating it will shrink the metal and undo all your beating.

Or... cut-grind-weld a pocket like this.

[racerboy4]

Ok bros(pun intended) I meant a 160...idk where the 170 came from. And ok on the pods as well, idk if uni made a same diameter but shorter. Parc ain't touching my tank lol..but that's a seriously aggressive way to gain a 1/2 hp lol

[6]

Ok bros(pun intended) I meant a 160...idk where the 170 came from. And ok on the pods as well, idk if uni made a same diameter but shorter. Parc ain't touching my tank lol..but that's a seriously aggressive way to gain a 1/2 hp lol

160 will fit and work ok. 150 is probably better and there are. Alot of options there. But right now I have a 160 and 150 on the two stock wheeled bikes here.

[racerboy4]

Idk just thought a 160/60 vs. 150/80 would change aspect ratio I could get some wider choices of tires, and the turn in would be same or even a touch slower...

[frinesi2]

The pod squish is really really fine though. Consider it extra security that it can't fall off ☺️

[6]

Idk just thought a 160/60 vs. 150/80 would change aspect ratio I could get some wider choices of tires, and the turn in would be same or even a touch slower...

That's fair and true.

[harpo]

Idk just thought a 160/60 vs. 150/80 would change aspect ratio I could get some wider choices of tires, and the turn in would be same or even a touch slower...

I used to run stock wheels with a 160 in the back no problems. From what other say, and I've experienced, the real game changer is if you run a 110/70 in front. The bike turns into corners crazy fast. Look on other forums here for tire selection, lots of info.