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    Fork rebuild...

    Hey anyone know where the web page is that tells u how to do a poor mans fork upgrade when rebuilding them?
    Rob
    88 Street Hawk
    F2 tank, Aztec8 dual 4", Duc seat and CF cowl, Stage 3 jet, Uni Pods, M4 stubby, SV650 clips, controls & fuel pump, GSXR front mc and CFB1000 front caliper, F3 forks upper and internals, Penske 8983, Gino RCR, rear jump plates & R6 pegs and Vapor gauge...
    04 CRF50 pit bike and stunt runner...
    91 Suzuki GSF400 Bandit (she's a runner now...)

    #2
    Its in this same section under a sticky
    http://www.geocities.com/bender647/forkseal/
    "Life may begin at 40, but it doesn't get real interesting until about 150."

    • '88 in Candy Flair Blue + '90 in Italian Red
    • Ohlins Rear Shock
    • F2 front wheel
    • VFR750 rear wheel
    • Hiperform seat&headers
    • MSMotorsport Seat Cowl
    • Steve Lenac Tokico six pot caliper

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      #3
      I was looking for a post on mods to do to the stock forks while I rebuild them... poor mans mods... I think I saw someone had cut the springs and add some PVC to help the dampering/rebound....

      any ideas?
      Rob
      88 Street Hawk
      F2 tank, Aztec8 dual 4", Duc seat and CF cowl, Stage 3 jet, Uni Pods, M4 stubby, SV650 clips, controls & fuel pump, GSXR front mc and CFB1000 front caliper, F3 forks upper and internals, Penske 8983, Gino RCR, rear jump plates & R6 pegs and Vapor gauge...
      04 CRF50 pit bike and stunt runner...
      91 Suzuki GSF400 Bandit (she's a runner now...)

      Comment


        #4
        From the HawkGT.com FAQ

        The stock springs can be stiffened by cutting some of the coils (all things being equal, a shorter spring will offer more resistance). Start by cutting two coils from the soft (tightly wound) end of each spring. You will need longer spacers to compensate. One inch (inner diameter) PVC pipe is inexpensive, easy to cut, and works well for making spacers. A good rule of thumb is that the spring rate is correct if spacers are flush with the top of the fork tube, and when assembled, static sag (see H.2.5.1) falls within the desired range. If the springs are still too soft, cut off another coil. [Thx Selden Deemer]

        And

        The stock damper rods (called pistons in the OEM manual) in the forks can be made to offer a little better compression damping characteristics by welding up some of the oil orifices on the lower portion of the rod. The 1988 Hawk damper rods came with four orifices, and after '88 this was changed to just two. Owners of 88's who are not going to install cartridge emulators (really a better choice to install these) should at least weld up two of the orifices for spirited riding and should consider welding up three, and the '89 and later owners should consider welding up just one orifice..

        A qualified welding and/or machine shop can handle the job for you, or you can do it yourself, by using a MIG welder and filling in the orifice holes with weld material. I started on the lowermost holes first although I don't think it matters. Keep the accumulated heat as low as possible while still getting good penetration to avoid distortion of the rod. After welding, machine or grind and polish the surface of the damper rod smooth with the diameter of the barrel.

        http://www.hawkgt.com/kb/default.asp...=8S0V5W:2V7M4U

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