Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Looking for top end rebuild suggestions...

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Looking for top end rebuild suggestions...

    I have an junky 88 hawk that I got with a seized engine. I "unseized" it with help from several of you guys and I finally got the motor out and the top end torn down. The front cylinder took all of the abuse. Here is a crappy pic of the front cylinder with all the scrapes and the piston with the marks on the skirt. More piston damage on the other side of it. The scrapes are maybe up to a mm deep in the cylinder. Basically trash.




    The back cylinder and piston appears to me to be fine. Motor has 17K on it. My best guess is someone tried to get it running after sitting for 7 years and the carbs where a gummy mess I guess maybe the front worse than the back. They actually got it running somehow. The front was running way lean and it overheated. The carbs had some very questionable pilot/idle screw adjustments that might support this.

    I guess my first question is do you think the bottom end could be ok? Doesn't look like any shrapnel went down there. There is some end play on the con rods if I move them side to side parallel to the wrist pin centerline, less than a mm on the back and a little more on the front. No other play. Not sure if there is anything else I can do to test the rod bearings or whatever without splitting the case. I am hoping to avoid that.

    My current plan is to ebay a front cylinder, get a new 647 piston and put new rings on both. Use new gaskets and put the whole thing back together and see how that goes. Pretty ghetto, but worth a shot? The other option is to go ahead and bore it out and get some 663 pistons and go that route, but will be more money of course. I am trying to do it as cheap as possible just to limit the amount of money I am going to potentially throw away .

    Any other tips on rebuild, like should I get new dowel pins? What to grease up for the restart. Any tips to get the cam sprockets setup at the right place in orientation to the crank?

    Of course all of this work has not stopped us from riding it. This is my brother on it after we got the motor out. May be the lightest hawk ever ridden .


    #2
    Suggest doing the engine work seeing you already have it apart. better to do it right and put it together once than have to put it together, have to tear it apart, and pit it back together again.
    Gino
    Chain Roller

    NEVER UNDERESTIMATE THE PREDICTABILITY OF STUPIDITY

    2012 CCS LRRS ULSB Champion
    2012 CCS LRRS P89 Champion
    2008 CCS ULSB National Champion
    LRRS HAWK GT Racer CCS Expert #929
    ECK RACING

    Comment


      #3
      Hey Kip-

      I got your email and replied. Now seeing the pics, I'm somewhat confident the rest of the engine is ok. It doesn't really look like it seized to me, that spot of wear on the piston isn't too uncommon, it probably just corroded/stuck from sitting for so long. I have everything you need to get it going again... cheap!
      J.D. Hord
      Keeper of Engine Nomenclature, 9th Order

      Comment


        #4
        I'd go ahead and make it 696cc's - there's no reason you stop at just +1mm.

        Comment


          #5
          Unless you want the ability to bore out the cyl again. 647 to a 663 to a 700.
          Gino
          Chain Roller

          NEVER UNDERESTIMATE THE PREDICTABILITY OF STUPIDITY

          2012 CCS LRRS ULSB Champion
          2012 CCS LRRS P89 Champion
          2008 CCS ULSB National Champion
          LRRS HAWK GT Racer CCS Expert #929
          ECK RACING

          Comment


            #6
            For a streetbike,that's not a huge concern.My 696 with 153's has a little over 40k on it,all stock bottom end has 6X,XXX - still goes strong.

            Comment


              #7
              Well for now I am doing it cheapskate style and it will stay a 647. Used front cylinder, piston, new rings and a hone .... etc.

              Special thanks to Mr. Hord for hooking me up with some key stuff on the cheap and giving me some tips.

              Cross your fingers for me. This will be my first top end rebuild.

              I am psyched.

              Comment


                #8
                JD claims they're no problem but I've only done the process ~5 times now and the cam chain tensioners still give me fits...other than that,they go back together pretty easy.Good luck.

                Comment


                  #9
                  joEl- You need to ignore the service manual. All that hoopla about pulling up on the tensioner and inserting a pin and blah blah... fuggedaboutit. Remove the two bolts and pull it out. To install, just shove it in there until you can get the two bolts back in.
                  J.D. Hord
                  Keeper of Engine Nomenclature, 9th Order

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Hmmm... this is going to help. I had enough fun with the "wedges" on the cam tensioner when pulling them out. I will ignore them on the way in. Thanks.

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X