need new f brake disc, should I upgrade to cbr600 f rim now?

[cafebaltimore]

I just got back from the Maryland State safety inspection shop and I need a new front brake disc to pass inspection.

I would like to upgrade to a cbr600 5-spoked rim on the front at some point. Would it be a good idea to just go ahead and upgrade the rim now since I have to upgrade the brake disc? Is the disc different, meaning if I upgrade the front rim I have to change the brake disc anyway.

My main desire for upgrading to a cbr600 front rim is because I like the way it looks more so than a desire to improve my braking ability. I am still a new rider so I do not ride as agressively as some of the more experienced riders on this list.

Thanks

[MrDude_1]

if you plan to upgrade not just the rim, but the entire braking system from the CBR (meaning the dual disc brakes).... then yea... now would be the time.

if you plan to keep the hawk single brake, and just change the rim/tire... then go ahead and get another hawk rotor right now.. the bolt pattern for the disc should match and transfer over.

[cafebaltimore]

Thanks for the advice. Where is a good place to get quality parts? Should I go with the factory part or should I consider an aftermarket part?

[jaysun0ne]

i have extra lowers from f2 fork if you want let me know i need to get rid of some of this stuff i have no plans to use

could also include all the internalls for the f2 all you would need is your stock hawk upper tubes then brakes, discs and a rim

[Doc]

If your just doing it for looks don't bother, just go cheap and get a new rotor. There what like $50

Or

Do the Lenac brake upgrade kit, same wheel but better caliper and rotor and GREAT stopping power. $375 or so. (I think)

or

Save some dough and find a complete F2 front for like $400.

Or get those F2 parts above.

We are here to help whatever you decide.

[JR]

Steve Lenacs has everything you need

http://www.hawkworks.net/listerpix/steve_lenac/

[tkm433]

if you plan to upgrade not just the rim, but the entire braking system from the CBR (meaning the dual disc brakes).... then yea... now would be the time.

if you plan to keep the hawk single brake, and just change the rim/tire... then go ahead and get another hawk rotor right now.. the bolt pattern for the disc should match and transfer over.

The CBR600F2 front will bolt right up to the Hawk forks and still allow the use of the speedo drive from the front wheel. The F2 front wheel uses the same bolt pattern to mount the disc to the wheel as the Hawk (6x165mm) but the F2 uses 276mm rotors while the Hawk uses something like a 316mm diameter rotor. So if you upgrade to the F2 wheel you will still need to buy a new brake rotor to pass inspection and also to worl with the Hawk brake caliper location.

If you use a CBR600f3 or later wheel you will not be able to use your speedometer since these front wheel do not allow for the use of the speedo drive unit. So if you want to keep the use of the speedometer you will need to use a F2 front wheel.

If you can find a CB-1 lower right fork leg and brake assembly or a complete right fork leg and depending on how good you are with a wrench you could mount the cb-1 lower to the hawk fork tube and now you would have a set of fork legs that could use the same fender and allow you to use dual disc 316mm rotors.

Here is an image of a CBR600F2 and Hawk Rotor.

[MrDude_1]

if you plan to upgrade not just the rim, but the entire braking system from the CBR (meaning the dual disc brakes).... then yea... now would be the time.

if you plan to keep the hawk single brake, and just change the rim/tire... then go ahead and get another hawk rotor right now.. the bolt pattern for the disc should match and transfer over.

The CBR600F2 front will bolt right up to the Hawk forks and still allow the use of the speedo drive from the front wheel. The F2 front wheel uses the same bolt pattern to mount the disc to the wheel as the Hawk (6x165mm) but the F2 uses 276mm rotors while the Hawk uses something like a 316mm diameter rotor. So if you upgrade to the F2 wheel you will still need to buy a new brake rotor to pass inspection and also to worl with the Hawk brake caliper location.

If you use a CBR600f3 or later wheel you will not be able to use your speedometer since these front wheel do not allow for the use of the speedo drive unit. So if you want to keep the use of the speedometer you will need to use a F2 front wheel.

If you can find a CB-1 lower right fork leg and brake assembly or a complete right fork leg and depending on how good you are with a wrench you could mount the cb-1 lower to the hawk fork tube and now you would have a set of fork legs that could use the same fender and allow you to use dual disc 316mm rotors.

Here is an image of a CBR600F2 and Hawk Rotor.

yea, but if he doesnt use the F2 forks, or the F2 brakes, and only upgrades to the F2 wheel..... then he can just bolt his new hawk rotor on and run the stock hawk brakes... if im reading what he said correctly, i think thats what hes asking to do.. not upgrade the brakes or suspension, just the rim.

[cafebaltimore]

Cool, thanks for the advice guys.

Yesterday was the first time I really rode the bike (other than down the street and back) when I drove to the inpsection place.

Being a new rider (and stepping up from a 1975 Honda cb400f) the brakes on my NT650 seem to be quite strong. Are the benefits of better breaking more evident when slowing quickly from speeds of 80-mph rather than slow speed stuff?

Do I have to change the master cylinder if I swap a full F2 front end? There is a good salvage place in Baltimore that I might visit just to see what they want for a full F2 front end.

I I decide to just replace the stock brake rotor, should I just tog to a Honda dealership? I have had bad experiences with the local Honda dealerships.

I also failed the inspection for a passenger strap (due to my Corbin seat). Did the stick Hawk seat have a strap or some other way to hold on?

Thanks

[brewsy]

CB,
better brakes are always better!
Though you can define better in different ways and it depends on what you personally decide is good!
Overall power is obviosuly a good start i.e. the braking system has the ability to haul you up in a very hard way and decrease your stopping distance. The only limit to a good stop is to not flip the bike over the front! Realistically this wont happen to you unless you try to stunt and do 'stoppies'.
The other and perhaps more important consideration is 'feel'.
Because braking on a bike is such a literal balancing act you really do have to have a good feel for what your braking system is doing. On a good system where the pads are well bedded in, all seals are new(ish), brake lines are in good condition and the fluid is good you should have a very nice feel to the lever. Not too soft and very linear i.e. stopping force 'feels' very proportinal to finger force. On a good system you can just feel how the brakes and the tyre are behaving and the differences between different road types.
On one of my other road bikes (98 ZX6R) I swapped out the standard disk s for PFM cast iron and rebuilt the callipers with new seals (all 12 of tha bastards) and added braided lines and once bedded in they were phenomenal. You really could stop with one finger (good cos it allows you to keep the other 4 on the throttle) and better respond to the road conditions.

As for your Honda dealer... screw them..
Look at the parts fiche and use one of the online dealers. You'll probably get a better price too!

Funny about the strap. Would you trust one of those things to stop you going over a rider in an emergency? Maybe you can fab something to pass the inspection and pull it off afterwards?

Marc

[Doc]

They failed you for a STRAP?! Take it to another inspection place.

[cafebaltimore]

My friends and I have taken several bikes to the same inspection place and the has been very reasonable to everyone so far. Maybe I just got him on a bad day. To the guy's credit he was very nice about and appologized for some of the stuff.

I failed for 5 things.

1. Front brake disc was too thin: This was reasonable in my estimation. You could feel with your fingers how thin it was compared to the edge that isn't ground down from the brake pad. I bought a used brake disc from a local salvage place for $40 and it looks almost new. I would have liked to pay a little less since it was a used part and someone mentioned $50 in a previous post, but I am unsure if they meant a new one from Honda.

2. No side reflectors: The guy said he did not care too much about that one. I will probably buy some stick on reflectors and bring them with me and then not stick them on. Just show them to the guy. From how he was talking I think this might be more than I need to do.

3. No tag lamp: There is no illumination of the license plate. I am not sure if I have an undertail kit on my bike or if something is broken. This could get me pulled over so I am not too mad about this one I guess.



4. Handhold for rear passenger: He told me I would be fine if I removed the rear footpegs so I will just do that.

5. No chainguard: I have one in my box of parts so I will just put that on. He told me that if the chain breaks it can really mess me up. I am not mad about this because I think he was really concerned about my safety.

[JR]

Cafebaltimore , have you checked your PM message inbox?

[jaysun0ne]

ya #4 sounds bogus

i would like to throw out a "what if"

what if you took a car from the 50s to get inspected
whould you need to retro fit shoulder belts and air bags???
thats just stupid

thats how the hawk came back in 88-90
does your subframe have the cargostrap bars still? just saw the pic nm
if so just tell him this is how the bike was manufactured and remind him its a 15+ y.o. bike

glad i never had to deal with that crap i am mad for you. stupid state laws

[cafebaltimore]

The guy at the cycle salvage place warned me against buying a used F2 wheel from eBay. He told me that he got one once that looked perfect and did not have a scratch on it. Then before he sold it to a guy, he put it on his spinner machine and could see that the wheel had a small dent in it. He said it was impossible to see when it was on the counter, but once it was on the machine he could see it. I was wondering what kinds of experiences you guys have had getting used wheels. Is it best to buy them new? How much are they new? And can you still get them new?