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Front forks... rebuilding and found this...

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    Front forks... rebuilding and found this...

    I tore my forkss down this weekend and on the fork that was leaking I found the "SPRING COLLAR" had several holes worn in it and all of the fork oil was "gray" color instead of the other forks red color. What would have casued the collar to wear like this?

    I will post a pic tomorrow morning when i get to work.

    I am guessing I need to replace this part now...

    Rob
    Rob
    88 Street Hawk
    F2 tank, Aztec8 dual 4", Duc seat and CF cowl, Stage 3 jet, Uni Pods, M4 stubby, SV650 clips, controls & fuel pump, GSXR front mc and CFB1000 front caliper, F3 forks upper and internals, Penske 8983, Gino RCR, rear jump plates & R6 pegs and Vapor gauge...
    04 CRF50 pit bike and stunt runner...
    91 Suzuki GSF400 Bandit (she's a runner now...)

    #2


    Looks like someone tried to weld it for some reason?
    Rob
    88 Street Hawk
    F2 tank, Aztec8 dual 4", Duc seat and CF cowl, Stage 3 jet, Uni Pods, M4 stubby, SV650 clips, controls & fuel pump, GSXR front mc and CFB1000 front caliper, F3 forks upper and internals, Penske 8983, Gino RCR, rear jump plates & R6 pegs and Vapor gauge...
    04 CRF50 pit bike and stunt runner...
    91 Suzuki GSF400 Bandit (she's a runner now...)

    Comment


      #3
      That is not good.

      The good news is you can replace it cheap with a same size piece of PVC pipe. Maybe a little longer for some extra preload.
      BIKES: Honda: RC31 Racebike/ NT650 Streetbike, DUCATI: None at the moment.
      Former MSF Rider Coach / Trackday Instructor/ Expert Roadracer #116
      "I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow."

      Comment


        #4
        OK i was wondering if I could do that. The stock piece runs like $15.

        If I replace one i guess I should replace both.

        Is this also the piece that gets longer if I cut my springs down?

        Rob
        Rob
        88 Street Hawk
        F2 tank, Aztec8 dual 4", Duc seat and CF cowl, Stage 3 jet, Uni Pods, M4 stubby, SV650 clips, controls & fuel pump, GSXR front mc and CFB1000 front caliper, F3 forks upper and internals, Penske 8983, Gino RCR, rear jump plates & R6 pegs and Vapor gauge...
        04 CRF50 pit bike and stunt runner...
        91 Suzuki GSF400 Bandit (she's a runner now...)

        Comment


          #5
          Check what it was rubbing on as well. (Inside of upper tube?) Weld material can be very hard and abrasive. Hope it isnt as bad as it looks.

          Red colour? Normal fork oil is amber, isnt it? It gets a little grey as the teflon wears off the seals. Bad forks have dark grey sludge in them. Red oil might mean someone has put in aircraft hydraulic oil
          -I'm sorry....I did not know she was your sister.
          -If Buckleys cold mixture went rancid......how would anybody know????
          -Dont piss off the quiet guy with the chain saw.

          Comment


            #6
            i just took my f2 forks aparts and they had green oil wich was really dark from the metal flake in it. both sets of forks actually had green oil. from two different sources. one michanic not sure but the other guy was good and knows alot about motorcycles, both selts where rebuilt in small local bike shops.

            since we are on the subject what wheight do you guys run in your forks becuase i wanted to run thicker oil to help the springs

            i got f2 w/ progressive springs and im 250# if that helps
            1988 & 1991 hawkgt, 2005 rc51

            Comment


              #7
              jaysunone:
              I run a simillar setup; F2 / racetech straight rate springs and cartridge emulators. I go with 5" from the top using 15w oil. I got the preload caps as well. This setup works well for me.
              I'm 190 and a moderate rider for reference.
              -I'm sorry....I did not know she was your sister.
              -If Buckleys cold mixture went rancid......how would anybody know????
              -Dont piss off the quiet guy with the chain saw.

              Comment


                #8
                thanks for the info

                and sorry to thread jack but
                this is my first time rebuilding forks
                do you need to "bleed" them like brakes to get an accurate 5" mesurment?
                im assuming bleeding just means pumping the forks a few times?


                i think i will mimic your set up for now. i guess it would be good to run alittle soft than to hard.
                1988 & 1991 hawkgt, 2005 rc51

                Comment


                  #9
                  There will be some air in the system. I always cycle thru to clear them out before final installation.
                  Gino
                  Chain Roller

                  NEVER UNDERESTIMATE THE PREDICTABILITY OF STUPIDITY

                  2012 CCS LRRS ULSB Champion
                  2012 CCS LRRS P89 Champion
                  2008 CCS ULSB National Champion
                  LRRS HAWK GT Racer CCS Expert #929
                  ECK RACING

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Also found my collar bushings were mostly copper... the service manual says to replace them if they are more copper than teflon.

                    If i don't change them whats it gonna do?
                    Rob
                    88 Street Hawk
                    F2 tank, Aztec8 dual 4", Duc seat and CF cowl, Stage 3 jet, Uni Pods, M4 stubby, SV650 clips, controls & fuel pump, GSXR front mc and CFB1000 front caliper, F3 forks upper and internals, Penske 8983, Gino RCR, rear jump plates & R6 pegs and Vapor gauge...
                    04 CRF50 pit bike and stunt runner...
                    91 Suzuki GSF400 Bandit (she's a runner now...)

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Give a lot more friction (called stiction when refered to forks) when the stanchion moves up and down. The teflon is designed to give minimum friction when sliding up and down on the chrome of the stanchion.
                      Dont skimp on changing them as they are cheap and you REALLY dont want to have to strip them all the way back down to change it...

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I ordered a pair
                        Rob
                        88 Street Hawk
                        F2 tank, Aztec8 dual 4", Duc seat and CF cowl, Stage 3 jet, Uni Pods, M4 stubby, SV650 clips, controls & fuel pump, GSXR front mc and CFB1000 front caliper, F3 forks upper and internals, Penske 8983, Gino RCR, rear jump plates & R6 pegs and Vapor gauge...
                        04 CRF50 pit bike and stunt runner...
                        91 Suzuki GSF400 Bandit (she's a runner now...)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Which Race Tech fork springs for my weight

                          I weigh about 230 pounds (about 16.4 stones).

                          Which progressive spring rate would be good for my weight?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            You'd need a straight rate spring honestly, something in the .95kg/mm range.
                            J.D. Hord
                            Keeper of Engine Nomenclature, 9th Order

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