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fixing ignition wiring

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    fixing ignition wiring

    The previous owner removed the ignition switch and ran the wiring through the kill switch. So when the kill switch was turned to ON, it was like turning the key to ON.

    I am having some trouble getting everything back the way it should be. I was able to find the original plugs to hook up to the plugs coming off the ignition switch, and they seem to work properly. When I turn the key to ON, the lights in the gauges come on (oil and neutral)

    But now when I turn the kill switch to ON, and hit the starter button nothing happens. I also seem to have 3 relays that were zip tied to a bracket behind the headlight that I cannot locate on the wiring diagram.

    Pic 1 shows how a black wire originates from the triple relay (grounding all three relays) goes through the headlight and then gets grounded to the forks)

    Pic 2 shows what happened to the wiring loom that comes out of the right handlebar switch. I have a black connector that no longer is connected to anything. Then I 2 red wires that are spliced in; one to a black wire, and one black/white wire that stays in the wiring loom. The two red wires go into the headlight, then back out of the headlight and over to the relays, where they can be seen in the third picture.

    Pic 3 show how the 2 red wires from Pic 2 come in, and also it shows where the red wire (with brown plug) was spliced off on of those two red wires (from right handlebar switch loom).

    You can see that who ever did this actually seems to have used the proper plugs to make this conversion.

    The relays are likely one of two things. a- headlight high / low beams wired direct from the battery or b- grip heaters high / low power.
    -I'm sorry....I did not know she was your sister.
    -If Buckleys cold mixture went would anybody know????
    -Dont piss off the quiet guy with the chain saw.


      So those relays were definately not part of the stock wiring. The ignition switch would have interfered with their placement.

      I realized that most of the that wiring to the relays was unneeded. The only thing coming off the relays was 2 red wires and the black wire that went to the screw on the fuse box cover. One of the two red wires just spliced off the black/white wire, so I pulled it off. The other red wire was spliced into the black wire coming from the right handlebar wire loom; plus at that point I had a dangling black wire with a butt connector. It seemed like the person who made this alteration, left the other end of that butt connector uncrimped so I could I could crimp the black wires back together.

      At first I mistook the butt connector for a female bullet connector so I crimped on a male bullet connector and when it would not go into the butt connector, I just held them together and the bike fired over. Then I pulled the butt connector off and crimped the black wire into the butt connector and now nothing happens. It is getting cold and I am agrevated so I will take a break. It sucks though because I was finished. The crimp looks solid, the wire in in all the way, I have no idea what happened. I had just enough wire to fit into the butt connector. If I pull it off, I will have to add another piece of wire in there. I swear my crimp is good, any other ideas?

      I checked the wiring diagram and that black wire should power the kill/start switch when the key is turned on. I am getting power to the black wire in the fuse box and I am getting power to the black wire at the connector in the headlight after the fusebox. But then the black wire goes to teh rear of the bike and so does the loom from the start/kill switch. This time I am really cold so I am pretty sure I am done for the night.

      The thing that keeps getting me is something happened between testing the black on black connection and crimping it together. It is driving me crazy.


        I know jack-squat about wiring, but have you used Posi-Lock connectors? They eliminate the need for crimping.
        '89 Hawk GT