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Front engine mount bolt seized!

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    Front engine mount bolt seized!

    has any one got any tips how to get this bastard out! both spacers spin, so im thinking its seized in the crankcases, ive had the air hammer on it, wacked the nut side with a dead hit lump hammer, thrown the blow torch and a gallon of pocket rocket at it and still the bastard wont shift! i have spare bolts and spacers so its out with the grinder next!

    cheers
    Robs

    #2
    Well the bolt is steel and the cases are aluminum so I think its safe to say that the pieces have made friends on a molecular level. If you can find Kroil brand penetrating fluid use that stuff because it is absoutley incredible. If you cannot find a can of Kroil I feel sorry for you because it has so many uses you won't kow how you lived without it. Otherwise you will can use amonia (yeah I didn't believe it either). Fill or continually soak the bolt hole with the penetrant of choice. It may help to turn the bike on its side. If you use kroil it will release within a few minutes of it may take overnight if you use amonia it may take a few days. Hope this helps.
    Faster than your mother... She's what the pros use.

    Comment


      #3
      cant find kroil in the UK any one here know owt thatll do the job?


      cheers
      Robs

      Comment


        #4
        This is fairly common. My last bros was like this - thanks God I never had to get the motor out. I heard that sometime the only way to get the motor out is to cut the frame.
        '95 ShaftHawk 650P>
        Front: Bros Mk2 front wheel; Mk1 forks; MetalGear disc; NC30 caliper; cb1 yoke.
        Breathing: Hacked up and shortened ART tri-can on collector and link pipe from DemonTweeks.
        Other: RGV bars; DefT dash; modded subframe; modded rearsets; relocated ignition.

        '91 Bros 650 Mk1>
        Currently off the road.

        Comment


          #5
          Rob,
          have you tried to tighten the nut/bolt up to see if you can break the seal
          or whatevers holding it.

          Previous owner didn't weld it up did he?
          "Life may begin at 40, but it doesn't get real interesting until about 150."

          • '88 in Candy Flair Blue + '90 in Italian Red
          • Ohlins Rear Shock
          • F2 front wheel
          • VFR750 rear wheel
          • Hiperform seat&headers
          • MSMotorsport Seat Cowl
          • Steve Lenac Tokico six pot caliper

          Comment


            #6
            yeah i did it back up with the air gun, ive wacked it with anything i could find! ive left it soaking over night and if the little bastard wont shift, its angle grinder time for it!


            cheers
            Robs

            Comment


              #7
              well after hours of torching and spraying with oil, i wacked it with the rattle gun one more time and sheard the bolt! least its out?




              cheers
              Robs

              Comment


                #8
                for the next time you can use mecanical persuation...

                take the two nuts out (if possible) insert a spacer, aka washer, bigger diameter nut, whatever you can find and tight the nut back all the way, that ussually will move the bolt the amount of the spacer, keep adding and adding spacers until the bolts come out...

                everytime you hammer something is bound to deform making the extraction even more dificult, in short is better to PUll than to Push since the bolt tends to slide much more easilly when is not loaded by the impacts.

                also something you can "Spin" the bolt ussing a airgun until it becomes free.

                oh and remenber antiseize is your friend when you are installing the engine back.. ..

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally Posted by ricardo

                  also something you can "Spin" the bolt ussing a airgun until it becomes free.

                  ..
                  havent read a lot of my post have you?


                  cheers
                  Robs

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally Posted by robs321
                    Originally Posted by ricardo

                    also something you can "Spin" the bolt ussing a airgun until it becomes free.

                    ..
                    havent read a lot of my post have you?


                    cheers
                    Robs
                    actually i read the whole thing, but nowere i found any reference to ant concentric axial kind of mothion

                    you tell me.
                    has any one got any tips how to get this bastard out! banghead both spacers spin, so im thinking its seized in the crankcases, ive had the air hammer on it, wacked the nut side with a dead hit lump hammer, thrown the blow torch and a gallon of pocket rocket at it and still the bastard wont shift! Shocked i have spare bolts and spacers so its out with the grinder next! Wink

                    cheers
                    Robs

                    i'm taking about spinning the bolt, not pushing or hammering the bolt in anyway..


                    maybe i'm wrong, i just don't see how.[/quote]

                    Comment


                      #11
                      ive been using a air impact gun/hammer or rattle gun, as ive mentioned! I also tried JRs method of tightening of the nut to pull the bolt through, to try and break the ceal! I did this after grinding off the left hand spacer so there could be some movement to help! All this did was strip the threads on the nut! so yes ive been trying to spin it more than wack it out, this is how i managed to shear the bolt off!!! so what new info did you actually offer?


                      cheers
                      Robs

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Did you try an air hammer?

                        Just kidding. You should probably e-mail rod at Hiperform to get some frame sliders - http://www.hiperform.com/frame_sliders.htm You'll get a new bolt, spacers, nut, and sliders.
                        It's scary how slow I am!

                        '88 HawkGT - crashed as all hell - Hiperform subframe, VFR rear wheel, F3 front end, Penske shock.

                        '05 Ducati S2R - Monstrack mirrors, CRG levers, Evoluzione clutch slave cylinder, ProItalia tail chop, Arrow damper, Nichols flywheel, Suburban Machinery bars

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally Posted by kennie

                          You should probably e-mail rod at Hiperform to get some frame sliders - http://www.hiperform.com/frame_sliders.htm You'll get a new bolt, spacers, nut, and sliders.
                          some one else who didnt read my 1st post then?





                          cheers
                          Robs

                          Comment


                            #14
                            after 3 days off heating, wacking,oiling, shaking, drilling,welding and a shit load of swearing! I give you EXCALIBER! well King arthur had no hassles compaird to this bastard!



                            in the end i got some MAP gas for the torch which burns a lot hotter and with a bar welded on the end and an old front header on for leverage, me and me mate finally got it worried and out it came!
                            now to clean the place up again and strip it down!
                            it cant get any worse can it?


                            cheers
                            Robs

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Yay!!

                              No let's see how frozen the dowel pins are in the cases.
                              J.D. Hord
                              Keeper of Engine Nomenclature, 9th Order

                              Comment

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