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Clutch replacement ---“The unstake”

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    Clutch replacement ---“The unstake”

    OK I am half way through the job but I have hit an bug

    I have removed the springs and have loosed the clutch lock nut but it will not come off the shaft. the manual talks about a “unstake” that must be drilled off. before the nut will come off.

    What is the best way of doing this?.... do I get a new one afterwards?
    help
    thanks

    #2
    i just went through this job for the first time myself last week.

    if the nut is loose like you say then it should come right off.
    you need to destake the nut before you try taking it off. or you do what i did and brake those four prongs on the pressure plate.

    as for reusing the nut it looked like mine was used at least twice before. so i just used it again, and made sure when i restaked it, it wouldnt come off.
    1988 & 1991 hawkgt, 2005 rc51

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      #3
      Originally Posted by jaysun0ne
      when i restaked it
      So restaked it means what really. I don't get it.

      Comment


        #4
        You can see it here :-

        Part of the nut is just dinged into the recess on the shaft. To unstake you just need to bend it out, use an old screwdriver or something.

        To restake, carefully whack a similar dent into the groove at the appropriate place.
        '95 ShaftHawk 650P>
        Front: Bros Mk2 front wheel; Mk1 forks; MetalGear disc; NC30 caliper; cb1 yoke.
        Breathing: Hacked up and shortened ART tri-can on collector and link pipe from DemonTweeks.
        Other: RGV bars; DefT dash; modded subframe; modded rearsets; relocated ignition.

        '91 Bros 650 Mk1>
        Currently off the road.

        Comment


          #5
          yeah...be sure to re-stake the nut before you put everything back together! I had it all back together, sitting at my grandpas house and realized I had forgot to restake the nut. Luckily I didn't take it for a ride that night. once you get the cover off and see the big nut, you'll see what staking the nut is, basicly the shaft has a groove cut in it and the flange of the nut is smashed into it so the nut cannot spin.
          -NEVER LET YOUR FEARS STAND IN THE WAY OF YOUR DREAMS-
          Most of the pics I have of my Hawk/Mods: http://gallery.me.com/stevenhowell

          "Arseing about with my bikes will end in tears." -Keno04

          "Dress for the slide, not the ride" - ParcNHawk

          Comment


            #6
            for a larger, easier to see example, look at the rear wheel on the chaindrive side...

            Comment


              #7
              Got an impact gun? Hit it with that and it will unstack its self, and then you can fold the tab back after your done. Don't break the clutch basket it is just cast aluminum. I killed a pedestal for the spring the first time around. then got wise and used a impact gun to get it off (not the springs the main nut).
              '89 NT650
              '75 KZ400D
              '75 RD350B

              Comment


                #8
                just one more question?
                Would it be better to place to bike in gear before changing the cutch?

                Comment


                  #9
                  I jammed a rag in the clutch gear cogs.
                  '95 ShaftHawk 650P>
                  Front: Bros Mk2 front wheel; Mk1 forks; MetalGear disc; NC30 caliper; cb1 yoke.
                  Breathing: Hacked up and shortened ART tri-can on collector and link pipe from DemonTweeks.
                  Other: RGV bars; DefT dash; modded subframe; modded rearsets; relocated ignition.

                  '91 Bros 650 Mk1>
                  Currently off the road.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    tried and tried.....

                    I have hit, bent and pull that stake but I can not the the nut off.

                    When I frst tired to turn it it moved the cogs behind the clutch plates, but now it is just moving the place with the spring holder on it and not the cogs.


                    If I but an impact wrench will it come out in one nice easy motion.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      This is taken from the list @ HawkGT.com and was what I used when changing the clutch a few years back.

                      1. remove the exhaust system
                      2. drain the oil
                      3. remove the oil line from the side cover
                      4. remove the side cover (you might have to GENTLY tap it, to get it loose)
                      5. remove the 4 bolts holding the pressure plate in place
                      6. un-stake the 27mm nut, holding the clutch center
                      7. with the springs in place, put a washer under each of the 4 bolts, and
                      GENTLY snug them back down. (the washers now take the place of the pressure
                      plate)
                      8. put a rag in the gears between the clutch basket and the crankshaft
                      gear
                      9. loosen the 27mm nut
                      10. remove the 4 bolts, washers and springs
                      11. remove the 27mm nut
                      12. remove the clutch center
                      13. remove the clutch plates
                      14. reinstall the new clutch plates on the clutch center
                      15. hold everything in place and reinstall the 4 bolts, springs and washers
                      16. slide the clutch center into place
                      17. put the rag in the gears and torque the 27mm nut to 94 lbs
                      18. stake the nut in place
                      19. remove the 4 bolts and washers and install the pressure plate
                      20. torque the 4 bolts to 9 lbs
                      21. remove the rag
                      22. install the side cover, torque the bolts to 7.2 lbs in a criss cross
                      pattern.
                      23. install the oil line and torque to 12. lbs
                      24. install the exhaust system
                      25. put in about 2 1/2 quarts of oil (if you replaced the filter)
                      26. adjust the clutch cable
                      27 have fun doing wheelies with your new clutch


                      The only thing I did different was not going near the case bolts with a torque wrench - that's asking for trouble ...
                      '95 ShaftHawk 650P>
                      Front: Bros Mk2 front wheel; Mk1 forks; MetalGear disc; NC30 caliper; cb1 yoke.
                      Breathing: Hacked up and shortened ART tri-can on collector and link pipe from DemonTweeks.
                      Other: RGV bars; DefT dash; modded subframe; modded rearsets; relocated ignition.

                      '91 Bros 650 Mk1>
                      Currently off the road.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Well just got the impact wrench from the shops.
                        Ill have another shot at it tonight with thsee instructions.
                        Thanks DefTrap

                        Comment


                          #13
                          OK I have been reading this over and over again and I think I have it
                          The reason you put the washer and the nut back on is so the gear will lock when you put a rag in.
                          At the moment puttting a rag in the gear on mine does nothing because the gear does not spint just the bolt. spins

                          Comment


                            #14
                            if you look in the manual, theres a special tool for this.
                            i made something, and it turnes out you can just use a rag
                            1988 & 1991 hawkgt, 2005 rc51

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