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    wiring help

    Ok, I'm in the middle of removing the ignition on the race Hawk, and replacing it with a switch (mostly for the extra security of knowing that its off-off without having to pull a batt cable)

    Anyone done this before? I've figured out which/what wires are needed out of the harness for the ignition, but for the life of me I can't figure out if its safe to just connect TL1 and TL2 together (soldered) or should they be switched

    Plan is to hard wire the fan (switched) for post race laps/cooldown and ditch the bulk of the wiring harness/fuse box and replace them with in line fuses for the ignition, oil/neutral lights, and by the look of it maybe the tail/meter light if I want to keep the tach lit....

    Anyone see any reason this can't be done?
    Mike/Kilter
    They smile because I'm different--I laugh because they are all the same

    #2
    I've done similar on an old rat bike (not a hawk). For convenience I'd leave the ignition switch. A hell of a lot of the original wiring can be cut if you lose some of the ancillaries and bar switches, even more if you junk the ancillary fusebox wiring. I ended up with one main fuse and maybe a third of the original wiring going front to back.

    My only tips would be to use a wiring diagram and if in doubt leave it in! Using decent quality soldered connectors helped as well.
    '95 ShaftHawk 650P>
    Front: Bros Mk2 front wheel; Mk1 forks; MetalGear disc; NC30 caliper; cb1 yoke.
    Breathing: Hacked up and shortened ART tri-can on collector and link pipe from DemonTweeks.
    Other: RGV bars; DefT dash; modded subframe; modded rearsets; relocated ignition.

    '91 Bros 650 Mk1>
    Currently off the road.

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      #3
      Originally Posted by DefTrap
      I've done similar on an old rat bike (not a hawk). For convenience I'd leave the ignition switch. A hell of a lot of the original wiring can be cut if you lose some of the ancillaries and bar switches, even more if you junk the ancillary fusebox wiring. I ended up with one main fuse and maybe a third of the original wiring going front to back.

      My only tips would be to use a wiring diagram and if in doubt leave it in! Using decent quality soldered connectors helped as well.
      id change that to be...
      if in doubt...... stop and figure out how it works first!!! lol.

      i cant do it here at work, but someone should take that nice hawk diagram we have online, and modify it to make a "race harness" layout.

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        #4
        I have a nice little wiring diagram for a race only set up but I don't have picture hosting

        Maybe someone could help. -Crash
        Faster than your mother... She's what the pros use.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally Posted by Crash
          I have a nice little wiring diagram for a race only set up but I don't have picture hosting

          Maybe someone could help. -Crash
          email it to [email protected] (theres a _ just like my username)

          Comment


            #6
            Originally Posted by Crash
            I have a nice little wiring diagram for a race only set up but I don't have picture hosting

            Maybe someone could help. -Crash
            www.photobucket.com
            BIKES: Honda: RC31 Racebike/ NT650 Streetbike, DUCATI: None at the moment.
            Former MSF Rider Coach / Trackday Instructor/ Expert Roadracer #116
            "I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow."

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