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MELTING Turn signals ???? put in new ones and they fried?

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    MELTING Turn signals ???? put in new ones and they fried?

    Ok I got the bike with aftermarket turn signals in the rear and the fronts were the huge stock originals. The turn signals are solid lit on all the time the bike is on and blink when the turn signal switch is used. I dont know if these bikes were set up this way originally.

    This morning I swap out the front turn signals with some nice small ones and after about 5-10 mins I notice the rear ones had melted the lense and case. WTF

    The front turn signals have 3 wires each coming out of the light. 2 of the same color wires and another color wire.

    The aftermarket signal I used only has 2 wires (positive and neg).

    The lights only work if I connect the 2 same color wires as one and then wire it to the aftermarket turn signal. That worked with it running on all the time and blinking when you use the switch.


    could it be the new lights being on all the time overload the electrical system ?

    rectifer going ? I did just replace the fuel pump as the bike came with pump that was dead.

    help....

    [/img]

    #2
    it could be as simple as someone replaced it with a higher wattage bulb that got too hot.

    the rear aftermarket ones shouldnt be on constantly... most aftermarket lights cant take constant useage.. they're only good as blinkers.

    if you want to replace them, the Buell ones look nice, are actually legal, and only cost $6 each.

    Comment


      #3
      should the front ones be on constantly ?

      Comment


        #4
        Originally Posted by vadrr650
        should the front ones be on constantly ?

        yes. the stock front ones have dual filament bulbs... one for "running lights" and another for the turn signal.

        you can see the wiring in the picture here:
        http://www.fastgm.com/travis/hawk/ha...ng-diagram.gif

        Comment


          #5
          Yep... the stock ones use an 1157 bulb which is what gives you the parking and turn signals.
          When I installed the buell markers, they only take a single filament bulb, so you lose the parking lights. I installed an 1156 bulb in mine so the flasher relay was happy.

          Bill

          Comment


            #6
            so am I overloading the turn signal by wiring and connecting the two same colored wires together? because its not a dual filament bulb


            If I try wiring just 2 of the 3 wires together the signal wont flash. It only works when all 3 are connected.. I think its strange

            Comment


              #7
              If you connect the two solid color wires to the bulb, leaving out the wire with the tracer (white strip), it should work fine as an indicator.

              The wire with the tracer is the + for the running lights... you definitely do not want to attach that to the + for the flashers.

              From the wiring diagram...

              frt-right signal:
              light blue = + for signals
              green = ground for signals/parking
              light blue/white = + for parking

              frt-left signal:
              orange = + for signals
              green = ground for signals/parking
              orange/white = + for parking

              you will most likely have to remove your headlight from the bucket to see the colors I've indicated... who knows how the previous owner wired it.

              Bill

              Comment


                #8
                Originally Posted by vadrr650
                so am I overloading the turn signal by wiring and connecting the two same colored wires together? because its not a dual filament bulb
                ooh.. dont do that. lol.

                the blueish wire is the turn signal.
                the blueish wire with a wite stripe is your running light wire.
                (and the remainging green wire is ground)


                if its only a two wire, single filiment signal, you cannot use it as a running light. and even if you can figure out a way to hook it up (using some controller box for example) the housing of most aftermarket signals will overheat from that usage.

                just disconnect and forget about the runninglight.. or buy diffrent running lights.
                your other option, if you REALLY wanted to keep thoes signals, and you want to keep running lights, is to add in a running light LED setup.... although thats kind of a custom deal.

                Comment


                  #9
                  i ll try it again today but i dont care about having running lights. It just didnt work unless the two blue wires were wired together. its weird.


                  and I have to figure out why my rear signals are wired as running lights. it looks like its wired like the diagram??

                  Comment


                    #10
                    had it working as just signals for a short ride. Now the headlight and all signals dont work at all. tail light and cluster work though

                    ??

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Have you checked the fuse's??

                      Just removed my running lights by removing wires as in one of the previous posts. Still have to use the duel filament bulb as the holder only
                      accepts the offset bayonet fitting.
                      "Life may begin at 40, but it doesn't get real interesting until about 150."

                      • '88 in Candy Flair Blue + '90 in Italian Red
                      • Ohlins Rear Shock
                      • F2 front wheel
                      • VFR750 rear wheel
                      • Hiperform seat&headers
                      • MSMotorsport Seat Cowl
                      • Steve Lenac Tokico six pot caliper

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