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Wierd engine cut out problem when I turn the bars

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    Wierd engine cut out problem when I turn the bars

    This very odd problem has reared it head today. I noticed it when I fired the bike up this morning. I park it in a narrow alleyway down the side of my house so it takes a bit of manouvering to guide it through a narrow gate. This involves lots of full lock turns of the bars in both directions.

    At first I didn't know what was causing the cut outs. Eventually, I narrowed it down to happening everytime I turned the bars whilst at my parents house trying to turn around in their driveway.

    After the engine cuts out and the bars are in the same position the starter motor will not work. However, as soon as you turn the bars it fires up again and the bike starts with no problems. At first I thought it could be the kill switch but the starter motor runs when this is flicked to kill. I have been poking around with the cables trying to figure it out but really don't know where to start.

    I am hoping someone on here will have some idea as to what may be causing the problem. To me, it seems like some cable is shorting out or there's a bad earth somewhere. I think this might have been triggered when the bike shop had my forks off to change the seals. It looks like something has been disturbed somewhere.

    Any help will be greatly appreciated as my technical competence is zero when it comes to bikes and I don't really want to spend any more money getting the bikes shop to figure it out.

    Thanks in advance.
    '88 Bros NT650J
    Progressive fork springs, '93 CBR600 F2 fork caps, CBR900RR rear shock, Puig 'Raptor' fly screen
    Fabitappi Monoposto seat cover, Heated grips, Braided brake lines, Buell indicators/turn signals
    Ceramic coated stock headers with custom Yoshi shorty muffler & Muzzy collector

    #2
    Problem fixed! After messing around pinching the wire looms with my fingers I made it worse and could only get the starter motor to work in certain positions. So the bike was unridable even to the bike shop.

    With the ignition on, pinching in a certain spot on the loom (on the bend) from the throttle the tacho needle would jump to about 2k rpm so knew that was the problem area. So I got out my Stanley knife (box cutters I think they call them in the US) and slit a cut of about 1.5" into the loom rubber. And low and behold, there was a small brass clamp that connects three wires together and one of them had broken at the joint. I pinched the wires together and hit the starter button and she fired up. Now the wires are reclamped and the loom taped back up, it's business as usual.
    '88 Bros NT650J
    Progressive fork springs, '93 CBR600 F2 fork caps, CBR900RR rear shock, Puig 'Raptor' fly screen
    Fabitappi Monoposto seat cover, Heated grips, Braided brake lines, Buell indicators/turn signals
    Ceramic coated stock headers with custom Yoshi shorty muffler & Muzzy collector

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      #3
      THat happens quite a lot on bikes of this age. Well done for fixing it.
      '95 ShaftHawk 650P>
      Front: Bros Mk2 front wheel; Mk1 forks; MetalGear disc; NC30 caliper; cb1 yoke.
      Breathing: Hacked up and shortened ART tri-can on collector and link pipe from DemonTweeks.
      Other: RGV bars; DefT dash; modded subframe; modded rearsets; relocated ignition.

      '91 Bros 650 Mk1>
      Currently off the road.

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