Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Another Monster Seat Thread

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Another Monster Seat Thread

    After owning my Hawk for about 2 years now, I'm finally deciding to do the monster seat mod. I lowsided it a couple months after I bought it and bent the subframe so I replaced it with another stock subframe and stock cowl. The spare bent one has been sitting in my garage for about a year and half now and I'm finally biting the bullet and doing the mod. I just picked up a monster seat for $20 bucks and some side panels for $40. Now all I'm missing is the cowl. I'm planning to borrow my buddy's cowl and making a fiberglass copy from it. I have no experience with welding or fabricating so I have some simple questions:
    So the bent subframe, what would be the best method to get it straight again? I'm planning on mounting it on my bike and then slowly bending it back using a long metal bar or something of that sort. Do you guys have any other methods?

    My boss has a welding setup. He says he's only welded steel before. I'm not too sure about the details, but I'm guessing its an MIG setup? Would MIG welds be strong enough for the box I'm building inside the subframe? I don't think my boss is a super experienced welder because when we do actual projects, he hires a professional welder. But I'm guessing that the welds don't need to be the best looking since it could be sanded and cleaned up after? Would this project be to much for a first time welder?

    I like the look of the 600rr tail lights but the connectors are different. I'm thinking it won't be too hard to splice up the wires and put in bullet connectors to fit the hawk wires?

    Right now I have a low mounted Arrow exhaust with TBR headers and I'm not sure about the midpipe (probably TBR also). With the chopped up subframe, I'm planning to keep the passenger pegs because it's holding up the exhaust. I have a couple options I'm thinking of: getting a pair of rc51 passenger brackets (anyone know what else would bolt right up?), making new mounts for whatever passenger brackets I can find, fabricating a really long bracket, or bending the midpipe to a high mount. Can muffler shops bend the angles of the midpipe to a desired location?

    I guess I'll start to answer my own questions once I start but I'm trying to gather as much information as I can before I start. I'll post pictures of my progress. Thanks in advanced, guys!
    This is a recent picture of what it looks like now:
    Last edited by dl2ewpoo; 10-21-2011, 12:53 AM.

    #2
    Fabian makes the monster cowls if you decide to order one rather than make them.
    I am doing a Group buy for Fabian parts right now also. Pic of the monster cowl are in the post below....
    http://hawkgtforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25686
    Penske 8983, 3.0 jet kit, GVE's, RT springs, mikuni pump/cust mount, lightened rotor, Aztec8 Duals, EB harness,RX2N, Lenac brake kit/cust. reasets, CRG mirrors/levers, Full ti M4, Fabi hugger, Gino's roller, Brents frame slider, BTTs res elim., WW torsion bar, Eric'c cf sidestand and res bracket, Bogans Sprocket cover, plus much more
    http://www.hawkgtforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17600

    I also do decals for our Hawks and Bros on the forum. I do stock colors or custom colors. I can also do about any design out there or custom design you wish for.
    link to the decals and pricing....
    http://www.hawkgtforum.com/forum/hon...ics-and-prices

    Comment


      #3
      lots of good info here

      http://hawkgtforum.com/forum/showthr...r+seat+f2+tank

      I run an SV650 taillight Upside down



      U will have to make "L" brackets to hold yoour side panels on, make sure you mount your seat first so to get the line right.

      Be prepaired to reroute a fuckload of wiring. I would also greatly reccoment a rear brake resivior eliminator Info here
      http://hawkgtforum.com/forum/showthr...res+eliminator

      U will have to heat up front wing parts of seat and bend them in if u plan to use a stock tank, (use a heat gun)


      as far a straightening subbie a mig welder will be easiest,

      for mounting the rear plastic cowl u will have to miunt more "L" brackets to the subbie,

      U will also have to plan on either a battery relocation or smaller battery Info here
      http://hawkgtforum.com/forum/showthr...t=cell+battery

      this mod is time consumng and if u want to do it right it will be very tidious. here is mine, I am not trying to bragg but I think as far as monster seat mods go mine is the best and cleanest Ive seen yet

      .
      .
      Visit my webpage for build pics and bike specs and much much more

      http://rckshawk.webs.com/apps/forums/

      ---------------------------------------------------
      only sandwiches sould be wrapped in plastic

      Comment


        #4
        Originally Posted by northamerican aka Rick View Post
        this mod is time consumng and if u want to do it right it will be very tidious. here is mine, I am not trying to bragg but I think as far as monster seat mods go mine is the best and cleanest Ive seen yet
        Seen a lot up there, have ya ?

        Rick's fine work hides many many hours. Worth it... but not easy.

        The upper part of the stock subframe needs to be either narrowed or widened to fit properly with the ducati seat.
        As a solo set up: the angle is too low to clear the rear tire, unless you raise, and stiffen the rear suspension. If you're planning on taking a passenger, then it's too low, and the seat will hit the tire. So this will involve more cutting and welding.

        The good news is the subframe is steel, and MIG does a fine job on it.
        As far as making ugly welds, and then cleaning them up afterwards... These are important structural welds to hold 2 people. Ugly ones are not often strong. Even a lot of pretty ones aren't strong either.

        If you were looking for a support group you're barking up the wrong tree. This place is fulla enablers dude. - Shooter77us

        The bitterness of low quality lingers long after the thrill of a low price has gone. - RacerX450

        Comment


          #5
          I don't think anyone can be a hawk forum member and not have seen your bike, North American.
          But yea, its one of the best jobs I've seen here.I've been collecting pictures and reading a lot of previous threads.
          I like your subframe because it doesn't really have a box and its very shallow, but I don't think I can justify buying an expensive small battery, relocating it, possibly leading to a coolant tank relocation also (I'm not a big fan of those huge bottles sticking out on the side). I'm going to try to make it work with the battery in the stock location first. I might even consider doing it like Ross did by keeping part of the fender.

          What do you mean by straightening the subframe by welding? Would cutting and rewelding weaken the subframe? (obvious I'm a little scared to do this since neither me or my boss are professional welders)

          I still like the 600rr tail light better and I think I'll try that first. If it doesn't work out, my buddy has a spare sv650 tail light I can fiddle with.

          Thanks for the rear master link though. I think I might go that route.

          So MIG welding isn't really strong enough for a passenger? I wasn't planning on having passengers and I don't want to risk it. But for now I'm planning to keep the stock passenger mounts just so I have a mount for my exhaust also.

          Is it absolutely necessary to raise the rear? This is the first time I'm reading of this. The stock position will hit the box even if the bottom side is flush with the lower rails? If I had to raise the rear, how would I do that? Can I steepen the angles of the subframe, or would that look too weird?

          Thanks again for all your help guys.

          Comment


            #6
            You wont have to relocate the coolant resevoir. it can stay where it is stock, as Ricks is. WHat you can do is what many here have done with different seats and subbie mods is go with a lithium battery under the seat. One like Ballistic makes works well for that position. Rick used to know a guy that made them, but last I checked with him he was no longer making them because he was going back to school.
            I havent done the mod, but dont see anyway to keep the stock fender at all to do that mod. It would stick out like a sore thumb for the most part. I would say you best best if you plan on keeping the stock battery is to take the subbie off and weld a tray on the bottome of the subbie to hold the battery. But if you go to that length your better off with a lith battery. if you use stock you will have to make a box that goes lower than the subbie because it would be too high for the seat.
            Mods like that and also to be done right dont work well with shortcuts and you have to spend the extra money to make it right. Its better done right the first time than to do it once and have to redo it later.

            Rick didnt take a heck of alot of time when he did the preliminary part of his seat mod, atleast I didnt think so or not as long as some. I think thats because he planned it out well. Now the little bits like redoing the wiring, the side panels and such did take that extra time, but thats part of it. If I am not mistaken he changed things along the way to make it even better. He did a great job on his tail and its one of the better ones.
            Last edited by 88Honda Hawk; 10-16-2011, 12:20 AM.
            Penske 8983, 3.0 jet kit, GVE's, RT springs, mikuni pump/cust mount, lightened rotor, Aztec8 Duals, EB harness,RX2N, Lenac brake kit/cust. reasets, CRG mirrors/levers, Full ti M4, Fabi hugger, Gino's roller, Brents frame slider, BTTs res elim., WW torsion bar, Eric'c cf sidestand and res bracket, Bogans Sprocket cover, plus much more
            http://www.hawkgtforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17600

            I also do decals for our Hawks and Bros on the forum. I do stock colors or custom colors. I can also do about any design out there or custom design you wish for.
            link to the decals and pricing....
            http://www.hawkgtforum.com/forum/hon...ics-and-prices

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks for the input. I really do like the idea of the lithium battery in the monster seat tool box. I thought about it but I don't think I can justify it right now because it doesn't seem absolutely necessary (I'm going off the F2 Tank/Monster Seat thread) and it's pretty expensive. Looking at ACarlson's mod, it seems like his battery is sticking up above the subframe, so maybe it won't have to stuck below the subframe rails? You're right about the stock fender, I won't take that shortcut. After I cut straighten and cut up the subframe, I'll mock up a box with cardboard to see how things fit. Thanks again guys!

              Comment


                #8
                Originally Posted by 88Honda Hawk View Post
                I havent done the mod, but dont see anyway to keep the stock fender at all to do that mod. It would stick out like a sore thumb for the most part.
                I basically used the middle of the rear fender (pretty much just the battery tray, plus about four inches towards the rear) and cut everything else off, and I don't think it sticks out too bad myself.

                A Honda amongst a sea of Harleys

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally Posted by dl2ewpoo View Post
                  ...but I don't think I can justify buying an expensive small battery, relocating it, possibly leading to a coolant tank relocation also (I'm not a big fan of those huge bottles sticking out on the side). I'm going to try to make it work with the battery in the stock
                  If you've got a sealed battery, you can mount it different ways. BlueGT88 has a monster conversion that can fit the stock battery more or less in the stock position, just lying down to save on height.

                  Originally Posted by dl2ewpoo View Post
                  Would cutting and rewelding weaken the subframe? (obvious I'm a little scared to do this since neither me or my boss are professional welders)
                  It can be weaker, or it can be stronger. Like everything in life, part design, part execution; and the final product is a result of the theory and the work.

                  Originally Posted by dl2ewpoo View Post
                  So MIG welding isn't really strong enough for a passenger? I wasn't planning on having passengers and I don't want to risk it. But for now I'm planning to keep the stock passenger mounts just so I have a mount for my exhaust also.
                  It's plenty strong, in of itself... so long as it's done correctly.

                  Originally Posted by dl2ewpoo View Post
                  Is it absolutely necessary to raise the rear? This is the first time I'm reading of this. The stock position will hit the box even if the bottom side is flush with the lower rails? If I had to raise the rear, how would I do that? Can I steepen the angles of the subframe, or would that look too weird?
                  I'd like to know how builders are doing it without raising the rear. The stock fender tucks up quite high beyond the rails of the subframe. Take your seat off, look from the top then look under the fender. You'll almost certainly see a mark on the bottom of the fender liner where the rear wheel has already made contact. That contact spot is a lot higher than the bottom of the frame rails. A taller rear shock will help, but this can't be where most builders make up the height. I might be missing something, but I don't really see any other way. The stock seat is even sitting above the top rails of the subframe (over the rear tire,) too; whereas the monster seat sits flush on top of them (the top rails.)

                  I've seen a build years ago where someone cut the subframe into its 4 main parts and rewelded them at the proper angle. I have raised the rear on a few subframes, myself -- I cut and extended the lower arm to do it.

                  If you were looking for a support group you're barking up the wrong tree. This place is fulla enablers dude. - Shooter77us

                  The bitterness of low quality lingers long after the thrill of a low price has gone. - RacerX450

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Monster, seat, pan, tray, subframe

                    My tire full on hit the underside, but only with a passenger. I thought about rebuilding the stock shock, not sure if that would have solved it, so got a Penske and jacked it up. It think NA cut and lengthened the frame arms to jack it up.

                    Here's the gist of what I created, once I was finished cutting all the junk off the subframe, shortened it quite a bit and reduced the width a bit to fit the seat. I also cut all the plastic square standoffs under the seat to make it hug the frame rails. You may have also read to heat and compress the front of the seat sides to fit he tank better. This was a must in my case, made it look so much better after about 5 minutes with the heat gun.

                    The biggest challenge for me was making the inner fender pan. First made a template with bristol board.



                    Then very slowly cut if out of thin aluminum sheet with my jig saw and some guides.



                    Then bent it up using a $20 bench top brake press I found at Princess Auto (Canadian store, I imagine is similar to Harbor Freight?) and fitted into subframe.





                    As you might see from the shape I bent the front down to fit in the CDI and bulk of wiring, tried to follow the lines of the subframe. And bolted the VRR to the underside.



                    All this would not have been possible without using a LI battery, mounted in the seat tool area courtesy of NorthAmerican.

                    Of course there are many more details which i'd be happy to share, lemme know.
                    Last edited by RockRash; 10-16-2011, 02:45 PM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      RockRash... Great post on the seat under tray/ fender pan ! do me a favor and edit in a title (go to advanced in edit post) and add a few "tags" to make to easier for others to search and find...If we get a request to sticky and most agree...I'll move it to a How to Sticky

                      Nice Work ! Thanks for Posting it...

                      Aloha Spa
                      "Hawk Porn" http://picasaweb.google.com/11124379...eat=directlink 1990 NT650-Penske 8981, Race-tech Springs & Gold Valves, Steve Lenac six-piston caliper & EBC rotor,SS Brake lines Ft / Rear lines through SSA ,VFR brake lever, F2 front wheel, F-120/70 R-160/60 Dunlop Roadsmart, Full-Supertrapp Exhaust, Stage 1 Jet kit, K&N Filter, Corbin Seat, Pro-Tec Clip-On's/ Past Rides...1986 VFR700F2 Interceptor / 1979 Yamaha Rd400 Daytona Special

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Tons of great info here. I just checked my rear fender and there were no marks. I tried to compress the shock as much as I could and there was still a little bit of clearance from the bottom of the subframe (I put a ruler across flush with the bottom of the subframe, laid belly down on the passenger seat and pulled the swimarm as hard as I could). Maybe the previous owner already raised the ride height? Not sure. But having a passenger, it would most likely be hitting. I believe I have a Fox shock on there. I'll take a picture of it. Maybe you guys can show me how to adjust the ride height if its possible? I don't know much about suspension.

                        All these pictures of the shallow pans make the lithium battery so tempting. But I'm being stubborn here and I'm going to try to make the stock sized battery work before going that route. I'll try laying it down to see if it helps any. Thanks for that tip, ParcNHawk.
                        RockRash, I noticed that the rear part of the pan is more flush with the top rail. I might try that so I don't have to mess with the ride height. Hopefully it'll still be enough space to fit everything in there. I really really like your layout/bending method as opposed to welding all the pieces together.
                        When I swapped out my bent subframe, I remember thinking: how the hell do those guys hide all this wire in a freaking seat pan?
                        Last edited by dl2ewpoo; 10-16-2011, 01:08 PM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          RockRash, was this what you were talking about?
                          http://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch...ake-39103.html

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Thanks SPA, I've added a few tags.

                            Yep, that's the one, for $20 it did the job. I used 3/32" or maybe 1/8" aluminum, which was really too thick and was hard for the thing to bend. I would try 1/16" or less, the bends will stiffen it, but too thin would be flimsy. The bender is quite cheap and bows in the middle making an uneven bend so I beefed it up a bit. By the end I had almost pulled the handles out from pulling too hard.

                            The back is completely flush, just enough room to fit the battery inside the seat tool holder. The signal relay, CDI, and starter solenoid is at the front in the extra space, the seat is thinner at the front which helps too.

                            Here's the finished product, with a monster integrated tail/signal light. Just gotta paint the cowl to match. If you look close, you can see where the tire rubbed the paint off before I upgraded the shock.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I read in another thread that there was an idea for an interchangeable parts list. I don't see that it ever happened, but I think it would be a great idea if we got it together. Doing research for this monster seat project, I realized that its very time consuming to use the search function, and then read through a whole bunch of threads only to find a bunch of different opinions. Maybe we can start one up? An interchangeable/known-to-work parts list? Maybe even expand this list: http://hawkgtforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=556. Just a thought.

                              I also really liked this idea:


                              How do you guys access your registration/paper work after doing the mod? As far as I know, there is no quick release system (unless you keep the old latch?) and you'd have to unscrew the seat from the brackets to take the seat off.

                              Also, do any of you guys have fiberglass experience? Do you know if making a fiberglass mold would damage the original piece? I don't want to screw up my friend's cowl. And after researching painting price...I'm starting to consider Fabian's tail cowl to save a couple bucks since primer is $20 a can...just thinking out loud.
                              Last edited by dl2ewpoo; 10-17-2011, 02:28 PM.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X