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BIKES: Honda: RC31 Racebike/ NT650 Streetbike, DUCATI: None at the moment. Former MSF Rider Coach / Trackday Instructor/ Expert Roadracer #116
"I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow."
Woodcraft footpegs ($20) bolt right up to woodcraft rearsets ($200)
I would also like an answer to your question. I've been looking for something in the way of knurled aluminum but the aftermarket stuff I've seen needed grinding. There are a few posts on here but they were kinda vague and mentioned some grinding. I'll probably end up making custom ones out of some aluminum tube.
Can someone who has put other Honda pegs on and done a "little grinding" take some pics or describe the process a little? I have some pegs from my brothers 2007 CBR 1000 and want to put them on. To tell you the truth, I haven't even removed them from the rearsets yet (he replaced his rearsets with Sato's). It looks pretty easy but its always nice to see or hear someone elses experiences first.
I'm afraid I don't have any pics here at work, but here's my description:
We're mainly interested in the end that mounts to the footpeg bracket. Most likely this will be a dowel section with two flats on opposite sides, a hole perpendicular to the flats (which the mounting pin/pivot goes through), and the end will have one half of it radiused, the other half should be 90 degrees to the axis of the peg. You will be able to easily see what I mean when you have the pegs off.
You'll want to measure the width across the flats. Hopefully this is the same as your stock peg. If it's wider, you can remove material to make it the same, maintaining the parallel aspect of the flats, and keeping the flats perpendicular to the pivot hole. You don't have to be exacting with the width here, just get it reasonably close. If it's narrower than stock, then you might be able to build it out with fender washer/s.
Next you want to look at the distance from the pivot hole to the end of the peg (the inboard end, not the foot end). If this is considerably shorter than stock, it won't work. If it's longer, again remove material from the end of the peg to try to get it to match up. This is fairly critical and affects the angle the pegs sit at. It's best to leave it too long if in doubt, until the last step.
Finally you want to check the profile of the end of the peg. This is what determines the angle that the pegs sit at, relative to brackets. That is to say, looking at the bike from behind, do the pegs droop, do they rise up, or are they flat? Flat is what you want to aim for, and it's a trial and error thing really. Set the pegs in, slide the pins in and have a look. If they droop, there's not a lot you can do. And beware the washers and return springs may or may not affect this, so put them in when you're checking.
I promise it will all make a lot more sense when you have the parts in hand.
I put some aftermarket aluminum pegs on.... had to file the inside end down some as SkinnE mentioned (very easy to do). They do transmit some vibes through, as DefTrap said, but they are not as bad as the vibes I get through the un weighted bars I have on. My feet have both been broken, so they are a little more delicate than unbroken feet would be... and the vibes don't bother them. As always, your milage may vary, but for $20 you can't go wrong trying it,
I wouldn't, those big rubber bits dampen out a lot of the vibes.
if you really want big rubber pegs... you can still upgrade to a modern peg... it'll still give you more ground clearance... and dampen vibes.. and may do so and be less squishy too.. plus it'll probably look better.
you can look at OEM pegs for examples... Buell for instance has big fat pegs like ours, that work better.. i donno if they fit, but im just saying.. keep your mind open. lol
Thanks for the tips guys. I think I'm going to head up to the honda shop this weekend with a stock peg in hand and try to compare it with a few before I buy anything. And I would love to have a set of woodcrafts, but they are a little out of my price range at the moment. Again thanks.
90 Hawk. What can I do to make it better?
78 yz125. What can I do to destroy this thing?
if you really want big rubber pegs... you can still upgrade to a modern peg... it'll still give you more ground clearance... and dampen vibes.. and may do so and be less squishy too.. plus it'll probably look better.
I think the stock Bros pegs are more chic than the stock Hawk pegs anyway .....
'95 ShaftHawk 650P>
Front: Bros Mk2 front wheel; Mk1 forks; MetalGear disc; NC30 caliper; cb1 yoke.
Breathing: Hacked up and shortened ART tri-can on collector and link pipe from DemonTweeks.
Other: RGV bars; DefT dash; modded subframe; modded rearsets; relocated ignition.
if you really want big rubber pegs... you can still upgrade to a modern peg... it'll still give you more ground clearance... and dampen vibes.. and may do so and be less squishy too.. plus it'll probably look better.
I think the stock Bros pegs are more chic than the stock Hawk pegs anyway .....
i wouldnt know.. i havent even seen stock hawk pegs in years. i bearly remember what they look like.
Hey Jason, You're pretty good with calipers right? Think you could post up a pic w/ some dimensions? I have access to CNC mills and lathes at the local CC
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