No Spark, where's the 6P connector?

[truxter]

Hi, can anyone tell me where the 6P connector is located? My Bike just died while riding. It has no spark and the manual references tests to the 6P connector, but I'm not sure where that is.

If anyone has any helpful ideas to remedy a "no spark" situation, please let me know.

Thanks

[DefTrap]

Must be the one on the RHS? - sort of under the tank, if you take it off.

[NT696]

I think it is one of the four located on the right hnd side of the bike near the Finned voltage regulator and CDI box. 6P refers to it having 6 pins. It is the only one there.
Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
Check out the pdf service manual and colored wiring diagram at the top of this forum for guidance.

[Hordpower]

There is a 6P and a 4P on the CDI, that's probably what they mean. Check the 4P connector from the pulse coils to the harness, right side of the bike, along the bottom/front of the tank. (from the sidecover) Maybe that has come undone. Also check the black/white wire at the CDI to make sure it is getting battery voltage when the ignition is turned on, and that the coils are getting power. Assuming that is all good, it would point to the CDI having lost its magic smoke.

Hord

[truxter]

Hi Hord (or anyone else), I finally got my bike back to my house and have been testing components per your advice and the shop manual.
I have power at both coils and at CDI. I'm assuming the CDI is the black box on the right rear side under the cowling. The manual refers to it as the spark unit.
Anyway, I feel it's either the CDI or (according to the manual, P.16-2) it's possibly the pulse generators.

Do you have any further advice for me at this point?

Thanks in advance.

[jregezeino]

im having spark issues as well and ive gone through everything except replacing the cdi and pulse gens.... try your fuelpump relay under the tank(its a little black box) and it plays a role in delivering 12 volts to your coils....use a meter and make sure the blue/yellow wire has voltage with the key on...thats my 2 cents

[Hordpower]

I don't want to muddy the waters but here is something else to consider! I have a Hawk here in the shop today with guess what? No spark! It is a racebike, was running fine but just off the start of a race poof, it quit running. I tested everything, swapped CDI's, etc, all tested good. It had one of my programmable CDI's on it, and when I hooked up the laptop and cranked it, I got a pulse generator failure code. Here is what happened... the clutch basket exploded and the flying chunks knocked the pulse generators out of alignment with the timing rotor. I have heard of this happening to other people ('Bama Bob N. comes to mind) but first time I have seen it firsthand.

Just a thought.

[L-Train8]

Truxter, how did you fix the spark issue? Because it's back. That's right, I have your old bike now, and I'm experiencing the same problem. Starter will turn over, voltage is right, but no spark at the spark plug. Did you replace the spark unit/CDI? Or was it simply that something was loose?

Maybe I'll track you down at the office and find out first hand.

[L-Train8]

From Truxter's email to me:

It wasn't the CDI. Hord tested mine and said it worked fine on his bike so he mailed it back.
I later found it was a bad connection at a junction under the tank. I think it's called the six pin. Anyway, it's one of the bigger junction plugs right next to the frame spar.
I think I taped the clutch lever to the hand grip and cranked the motor while watching for spark and wiggling the wiring harness. Finally I got spark and it was good ever since.
Of course, separating the connectors and cleaning is always helpful.

[SPA]

Of course, separating the connectors and cleaning is always helpful.

Using an aerosol type electrical contact cleaner first and then no-oxidation type electrical grease (Dielectric Grease) in the female side work well to maintain connectivity.

If the connectors have oxidation or corrosion, a 5 / 10 min or so dip white vinegar and then neutralize with a dip in baking soda and water mix before moving to the electrical contact cleaner and dielectric grease. (Blow with compressed air before grease )

Caution with the spray cleaner could be a bad deal on some paint

I use a different type but you can get this one at most Ace or auto parts stores

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3506555&CAWELAID=323881576

SPA