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    Chain question

    Is there a way to remove the chain without the special wrench in the tool kit, my bike did not come with it, I know I can get the tool, but would like to do the chain today...Please let me know...Thanks,

    Also can someone explain what the "525" designation is for our chain? I know this must be stupid but I am curious and want to learn all about the Hawk...Why is there 525 chains with 108, 110, 112, 120 and so on links??? I am confused, I guess I figured all 525 chains would be 112, but I see there are so many different links...Also why a "v" after the 525? Are there other letters???...What do they mean, thanks a lot!

    Jason
    Damn right it's a Hawk GT

    #2
    I think the wrnech you are asking about is for adjusting the chain tension. You shouldn't need it to remove the old chain but you will need it to adjust for the new one.
    '88 Hawk GT
    '89 Harley FXSTC
    2008 Yamaha V-Star 1300 tourer

    http://www.hawkgtforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=948

    "...my performance ain't perfect, but its loud, and its fast..." -Widespread Panic

    Comment


      #3
      The tool in the tool kit is used to tighten/loosen the chain by rotating the eccentric. When removing the chain you will need this to slack the chain. You could potentially rotate the eccentric with something else, but I would try to avoid it since the eccentric is soft aluminum and the little "teeth" on it like to break off. To actually break the chain links, the appropriate tool is a chain breaker, which you can google to see what I am talking about. You can also break the chain caveman style, with hacksaw or some other cutting tool. Slack the chain tension first. Wouldn't necessarily recommend this, but I may have done it in the past.

      525 is basically the width of the chain. There are other sizes like 520. The chain and sprockets should match i.e. 525 chain 525 sprockets. The link count on a stock hawk is 112. Many chains come with more links as some other bikes may need more or less depending on the distance between the front and rear sprockets on that particular bike. If you get one that is longer than you need you will have to remove links to get them to the right size. If you have non-stock sprockets sizes or non-stock rear shock with more ride height the link count may be different.

      Not sure about the "v", there are usually different types of seals, like o-ring, x-ring blah blah.

      Another thing to consider with a new chain is the type of master link it has. Some like DID have rivet links require another tool to "rivet" the master link in.

      hth

      Comment


        #4
        Im hearing so many "Im completely new to motorcycle mechanics" questions on this site and you guys think you can walk a newbie through it with a post.Unless you have someone who is mechanically minded to either do the procedure or show you in person how, I dont think you should attempt to do this yourself. If you dont have the money to take it to a mechanic I recommend hanging out at a local motorcycle hang-out and find a mentor and please please please Buy a service manual!!!!!
        Buy a service manual!!!!!!! Buy a service manual!!!!!!!!!!!!! it will get you moving in the right direction.... Sorry to sound like an A-HOLE but I just wanna save yall heartache, frustration,and money.

        Comment


          #5
          I really appreciate the responses, thanks for the indepth post Kip, you answered my questions...GTFever, I am not new to mechanics, I work on all my cars, have put in superchargers, clutches, trannies, fuel pumps, gas tanks, injectors, blah blah, just new to the hawk...I have not worked on bikes nearly as much as cars, so I am being careful and would like to do it right...As far as the service manual is concerned, I do have it, a paper and cd version, I do appreciate the warning though...I figured the chain/sprocket was not that big a deal to replace if you had the right tools, am I wrong?
          Damn right it's a Hawk GT

          Comment


            #6
            Re: Chain question

            Originally Posted by cfiiman
            Is there a way to remove the chain without the special wrench in the tool kit, my bike did not come with it, I know I can get the tool, but would like to do the chain today...Please let me know...Thanks,

            Also can someone explain what the "525" designation is for our chain? I know this must be stupid but I am curious and want to learn all about the Hawk...Why is there 525 chains with 108, 110, 112, 120 and so on links??? I am confused, I guess I figured all 525 chains would be 112, but I see there are so many different links...Also why a "v" after the 525? Are there other letters???...What do they mean, thanks a lot!

            Jason
            STOCK SIZE:
            NT 650 HAWK 88-91
            44T Rear
            16T Front
            "525"
            112 links

            I used a dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to cut the old chain off of my Hawk being that the OEM chain has no master link.

            You can use the stock size "525" chain or a "520" cahin as long as you use the correct sprockets.

            ALWAYS REPLACE SPROCKETS AND CHAIN AT THE SAME TIME!
            It is not advised to use old/used sprockets with a new chain.




            IMPORTANT

            Always replace with equivalent (or better) chain and correct master link as recommended in the manufacturer’s service or owner’s manual. Failure to install a replacement chain and master link equivalent to those of the motorcycle’s original equipment type, size and pitch can be dangerous and result in serious injury and property damage.

            SIGNS OF A WORN OUT CHAIN

            • Rust
            • Kinks
            • Stiffness
            • Excessive stretching (1.5% for non-sealed and 1.0% for sealed chain)
            • Abnormal rattling noise

            A worn out chain can break at any time and should be replaced immediately if any of these conditions are present. If even one O-ring is missing or damaged, the entire chain should be replaced immediately.

            If you can grasp one link that is in contact with the rear sprocket (while the vehicle is not running) and you can pull the link more than halfway off a sprocket tooth, it is time for a new chain.

            HOW TO COUNT LINKS

            Every pair of sideplates (both inner and outer) counts as one link. Chains always have an even number of links.

            INSTALLATION

            1. Place your motorcycle on a center stand so the rear wheel can spin freely.

            2. If the front sprocket is difficult to access, it will be easiest to use your old chain to route the new chain through and around the sprocket (fig. 1).


            3. Using pliers, remove the master link and connect the new chain to the old chain. Pull through until the new chain reaches the rear sprocket.

            4. Remove the old chain and connect both ends of the new chain using the new master link (fig. 2).


            5. Make sure the closed end of the clip is facing the direction of rotation (fig. 3).


            6. If installing an O-ring or Quadra-X Ring chain, be sure to slide the seal over the master link pins before installing the master link plate and clip. 7. Standard chain adjustment for most street models is 1" to 1 3/8" (2.5 to 3.5cm) of slack. We strongly recommend checking chain slack every 300 to 350 miles (480 to 560km). Refer to your owner’s manual for proper adjustment specifications (fig. 4). Check adjustment marks on swingarm so both sides are adjusted equally.


            CAUTION: If chain is not adjusted equally, the sprocket/wheel alignment will be off, causing chain to derail, possibly causing damage and/or injury.


            MAINTENANCE: Lubricate your chain every 300 to 350 miles (480 to 560km) with a quality lubricant such as SAE 80-90 wt. motor oil or aerosol lubricant designed specifically for motorcycle chains. When operating in hot, dry and/or dusty conditions, you may need to lubricate more frequently. Apply a moderate amount so lubricant penetrates between pins, rollers and bushings (fig. 5).

            CLEANING: Do not use harsh solvents or chemicals, such as gasoline or benzene. Sprocket Specialists recommends using a biodegradable degreaser with a soft (non-wire) bristle brush or clean cloth for removing dirt. Use kerosene (paraffin oil) if necessary, let dry and lubricate immediately within 10 minutes. Never use pressure washers, steam cleaning, wire brushes, or volatile solvents such as gasoline, mineral spirits, contact cleaner, acetone, or WD-40, all of which can damage O-rings.

            MAINTENANCE: Apply a high quality lube every 300 miles (500 km). Non-sealed chains should be cleaned and lubed more often.

            CHAIN PITCH GUIDE Chain size Chain pitch (inches)
            428 0.500
            520 0.625
            525 0.625
            530 0.625
            532 0.625
            630 0.750
            632 0.750

            CAUTION: Replace chain immediately in the event of contact with battery acid. Immediately clean chains that come in contact with rock salt or salt water. Always lubricate after cleaning (fig. 6).

            Comment


              #7
              Good write-up. Lots of useful info there.

              Although I must disagree with:
              ALWAYS REPLACE SPROCKETS AND CHAIN AT THE SAME TIME!
              It is not advised to use old/used sprockets with a new chain.
              The stock steel rear sprocket is probably designed to last the life of the bike, with the chain being the wear item. Im not suggesting that the sprockets dont also wear, but no-one replaces sprockets just because a chain stretched. Sprockets should get replaced when they wear out. (as a pair)
              -I'm sorry....I did not know she was your sister.
              -If Buckleys cold mixture went rancid......how would anybody know????
              -Dont piss off the quiet guy with the chain saw.

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks for the write up! So when you say you use the dremmel b/c the stock chain has no master link, you mean you cut right through the chain? I have a cutting wheel that would work...Oh and if there is no master link how do they install it? Sorry if that is a dumb question...
                Damn right it's a Hawk GT

                Comment


                  #9
                  That write up is for most bikes.... however you should refer to the hawkgt manual for the adjusting info- hawt gts are different that most bikes because the chain tightens as the rear shock is depressed and you need to compensate for that.
                  '88 Hawk GT
                  '89 Harley FXSTC
                  2008 Yamaha V-Star 1300 tourer

                  http://www.hawkgtforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=948

                  "...my performance ain't perfect, but its loud, and its fast..." -Widespread Panic

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally Posted by cfiiman
                    Thanks for the write up! So when you say you use the dremmel b/c the stock chain has no master link, you mean you cut right through the chain? I have a cutting wheel that would work...Oh and if there is no master link how do they install it? Sorry if that is a dumb question...

                    the master link on a riveted chain looks just like a clip style one... you put the two pegs thru and the other side on..

                    but instead of using a clip, you use a "chain rivet tool"


                    basiclly its a TINY press that mushrooms out the rivets.. just like all of the other links have done at the factory.

                    once its rivited in, its on there for good.. no coming off without cutting something.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The first number in a chain is its pitch in 1/8th inches. For instance a 525 chain has a pitch of 5/8" or .625".
                      The second and third number set the width of the chain. A 525 chain would be 2.5/8" or .3125".
                      "Life may begin at 40, but it doesn't get real interesting until about 150."

                      • '88 in Candy Flair Blue + '90 in Italian Red
                      • Ohlins Rear Shock
                      • F2 front wheel
                      • VFR750 rear wheel
                      • Hiperform seat&headers
                      • MSMotorsport Seat Cowl
                      • Steve Lenac Tokico six pot caliper

                      Comment


                        #12
                        if you're not too heavy-handed, the eccentric adjuster can be rotated(counterclockwise to looosten) by tapping carefully with a screwdriver or flat-nosed punch and small hammer on one of the teeth. best to wd-40 area first.
                        "It's only getting worse."


                        MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

                        Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally Posted by squirrelman
                          if you're not too heavy-handed, the eccentric adjuster can be rotated(counterclockwise to looosten) by tapping carefully with a screwdriver or flat-nosed punch and small hammer on one of the teeth. best to wd-40 area first.
                          the direction to tighten or loosen depends on what side of the eccentric you're on.
                          easiest way to see that is to carefully look at the brake caliper mounts/arm...

                          the screwdriver method SUCKS btw... i really really really really reccomend going to your local honda dealer, cycle shop, or VFR\ducati\whoever friend and getting the spanner to do this.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Thanks guys, I just ordered everything I need through Hord Power, thanks JD!

                            And my local honda shop has a DID breaker/riviter they said I can borrow, hell of nice guys down there, and to top it off, I bumped into a guy today on a ride that is an amature racer on an R6 and he is just up the street!!!...He is going to help me put it on next week...
                            Damn right it's a Hawk GT

                            Comment


                              #15
                              bikes are not cars hmmm..........

                              Comment

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