Eccentric Bearing Carrier Lock Nut Question (play?)

[cfiiman]

Hey guys,

So I was out working on the fit of my homemade rearstand that I finished welding (thanks jaysun sp?) and I noticed that the nut on the left side of the bike (big one) moved a little by hand, about a 1/4 inch or so...It feels like the play is suppose to be there as it moves and stops, then you can turn it the other way and it moves the same amount and stops...I looked at my manual and found that it is the eccentric bearing carrier lock nut...For clarification it is NOT loose, just that there is a finite amount of play in the nut that you can move by hand, is this suppose to be that way? Sorry if this is dumb, I am just very cautious as this is an older neglected out and I am a little nervous...Thanks,

Ok, so I just looked at my servous manual a little closer and when it talks about removing and reinstalling this lock nut it say "stake" or "unstake" it, which tells me you do not put a wrench on this thing, please somebody shed some light on if this play is normal...Thanks

Jason

[kiwi]

the online manual (http://hawkworks.net/manual/1.html#1-5-torque-values) says this nut should be torqued to 120 lbs

So Im guessing that there should be no forward or ( or is that left and right) backward movement on the thread.

As to the possible fault Im not sure.

BTW, there is no nut movement on the thread on my eccentric nut.

[DefTrap]

No play on that nut on either of the bikes in my shed.

[NT696]

Take that apart and find the cause before your next ride.

I'm assuming you are turning the nut and the spindle (and wheel) is staying still.
I've never staked my nut, but I als use the full 120ft.lbs of torque with a 46mm socket. Check the rubber cushions and the bearings in the carrier while you are at it. ---Let us know what it was.

[kip]

I am not sure I am following where you have the play is exactly. The only place that may have some is with the cush drive (manual calls this the "driven flange"). The cush drive is the aluminum frisbee looking thing around the big nut. Lot of info in chap 13 of the manual. This has rubber "cushions" in it and allows some ... well cushion between rear sprocket and the rear spindle. The rubber bits commonly get hard and nasty. This may allow some play between the rotation of the sprocket and the wheel. Meaning if you keep the rear wheel still using the brake, the sprocket and the part of the cush drive you can see may be able to rotate slightly back and forth. The "big" nut should stay stationary with the wheel in this case.

IMO there should be no other play around the nut or spindle itself, absolutely none in the 1/4" range. I have a fairly beat 88 and there is no perceptible play at all. I have put new cush rubbers in recently so there is no rotational play either at this point, but I think it did have some with the original cush rubbers.

If you any other play I actually might go "gtfever" on you and recommend to have a shop at least look at it. This area is critical from a safety standpoint, which is why honda is using a crap-ton of torque, staking the nut etc. Very bad things would happen if that nut removed itself.

[hawksonfire]

Since hawks are now 16 or so years old the bushings made of rubber in the hub (that part the sprocket is attached to) have desintigrated honda calls it the "cush drive" it softens power from the output shaft to the rear wheel. The manual doesnt discuss it or even show a schematic but every hawk owner will have the replace these if they havent already as rubber deteriorates with age. There are detailed instructions ( with pics) at www.canyonchasers.net (the search would be hawk gt cush drive) when you get there. I would make a change to the instructions. It says to spray the bushings with WD-40 before reinstalling the bushings. DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!!!! as WD-40 breaks down rubber like all petrolium products.


Im certain thats what your problem is cause mine turned to dust within a week of my hawk purchase...... let me know how it goes..

[MrDude_1]

Since hawks are now 16 or so years old the bushings made of rubber in the hub (that part the sprocket is attached to) have desintigrated honda calls it the "cush drive" it softens power from the output shaft to the rear wheel. The manual doesnt discuss it or even show a schematic but every hawk owner will have the replace these if they havent already as rubber deteriorates with age. There are detailed instructions ( with pics) at www.canyonchasers.net (the search would be hawk gt cush drive) when you get there. I would make a change to the instructions. It says to spray the bushings with WD-40 before reinstalling the bushings. DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!!!! as WD-40 breaks down rubber like all petrolium products.


Im certain thats what your problem is cause mine turned to dust within a week of my hawk purchase...... let me know how it goes..

just FYI, lithium grease works good, and wont eat the rubber.

[hawksonfire]

Yeah no grease is necessary for this assembly why does it need to be there......Have you seen the assembly you dont need more give in it it should be tight. completely un necessary...

[cfiiman]

Well Sh$%@#, now I'm nervous, I will take a vid of exactly what I am talking about and post it...Guess I'll drive the bike over to the dealer and ask them about it...Dammit...

[hawksonfire]

cfii seriously I clearly understand what youre talking about it ISSSSS the cush drive. Dont ride with it in this state for long it could damage your output shaft(requiring total engine dissasembly),damage to the hub assembly, and theoretically transmission damage over time. If you do drive it to the dealership ease from a stop to a go(youll here a thunk every time you take off) But not to worry if you follow the intruction at the link I gave you youll be fine I agree with the intruction coming from my extensive mechanic experience the hard part is finding the huge socket to remove the staked nut holding the hub together( I bought a giant 18" cresent wrench hehe). YOU CAN DOOOO EEEEEET!!!!!!! Just read through the instructions a few dozen times before starting, it helps to wrap your head around it (it helps me)

[hawksonfire]

cfii seriously I clearly understand what youre talking about it ISSSSS the cush drive. Dont ride with it in this state for long it could damage your output shaft(requiring total engine dissasembly),damage to the hub assembly, and theoretically transmission damage over time. If you do drive it to the dealership ease from a stop to a go(youll here a thunk every time you take off) But not to worry if you follow the intruction at the link I gave you youll be fine I agree with the intruction coming from my extensive mechanic experience the hard part is finding the huge socket to remove the staked nut holding the hub together( I bought a giant 18" cresent wrench hehe). YOU CAN DOOOO EEEEEET!!!!!!! Just read through the instructions a few dozen times before starting, it helps to wrap your head around it (it helps me)

[cfiiman]

GT thanks, I just got off the phone with JD hord, he is the man, he said that it is not unusal to have the lock nut loosen up and the reason I can turn it is b/c it is loose and the stake nut is what is stopping it from side to side...I have a big socket set that will tighten it which I am going to do as soon as I get home, but I am a little confused on how to remove and then install the "stake"...Can someone detail that for me, JD said a screw driver or just to tighten it and it will come out, but I am unclear I guess and don't want to bother him anymore today lol...Can someone explain getting the stake out?

Oh and btw I don't hear any "thunk" when I take off, no matter how hard, can I hopefully just tighten this thing up?

Thanks,

jason

[cfiiman]

I don't see a search feature at canyon chasers, how do I get to the article? Where do you buy the cush drive?


Duh, I found it, sorry, can I get these cush rubbers from Hord, I'm gonna go look, shit I should have ordered these prior to my order yesterday

[hawksonfire]

Shoot.... Im holding the pages in my hand but I cant remeber how I printed it off.....it says at the top Work shop...then hawk gt cush drive - replaceing a 17 year old critical component..... as far as the nut I used a hard metal (not a cheapy srewdriver as they are softer)thin blade. and carefully folded up the flap and took out the stake with a dental pick

[hawksonfire]

Man that rubber is old if you replace now youll probably never have to do it again and itll give you a chance to put some bearing grease on your rear bearing also very old grease