So while I am waiting on my parts from Hord I went ahead and broke the old chain loose, removed the shift linkage and popped the front sprocket cover off...Ok, so I am looking at an old, rusty, and wobbly front sprocket...It has play both if you move it front to back, and it wobbles if you hold it and move it side to side, I am assuming this isn't normal? I have a new front sprocket on the way, but I couldn't find anything on the front sprocket in the manual, can somebody help me out here, GT???
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More help please, front sprocket
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Ok, yeah it all seems normal...I took off the flange that bolts to the sprocket and I found out that is the way the sprocket is held on there...The bolt holes when lined up on the sprocket and flange, causes the teeth on the sprocket and flange NOT too line up, thus holding them in place (when you push or pull the sprocket the teeth on the flange are out of alignment with the teeth on the shaft causing it to stay in place), thus by the nature of this design would cause some play/looseness in the way the sprocket sits on the shaft...I am guessing when the chain is on and slacked up there is no movement b/c of the chain restriction, can anyone give me some info on this, I am trying to learn
Oh, and just curious, when I pulled my sprocket off, on the backside of the sprocket where it faces the engine there was an indetation/recess of the flange, but my sprocket would have to have been turned around for the flange to sit in the "flange shaped" recess????? WTF???? Did the previous owner have my sprocket on backwards?????? I don't see why there would be a perfect shaped recess for a flange to sit in but you put that on facing the engine and then the flange on the outside of the sprocket sitting on top of the sprocket???? I am assuming my sprocket was on backward, it would help if I could find this in the manual...Please let me know...I am sure glad I pulled all this stuff off...I'll snap some pics and post them...Thanks,!
JasonDamn right it's a Hawk GT
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Yes, it should be like that.'95 ShaftHawk 650P>
Front: Bros Mk2 front wheel; Mk1 forks; MetalGear disc; NC30 caliper; cb1 yoke.
Breathing: Hacked up and shortened ART tri-can on collector and link pipe from DemonTweeks.
Other: RGV bars; DefT dash; modded subframe; modded rearsets; relocated ignition.
'91 Bros 650 Mk1>
Currently off the road.
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The way it was NOT the flange in the recess.'95 ShaftHawk 650P>
Front: Bros Mk2 front wheel; Mk1 forks; MetalGear disc; NC30 caliper; cb1 yoke.
Breathing: Hacked up and shortened ART tri-can on collector and link pipe from DemonTweeks.
Other: RGV bars; DefT dash; modded subframe; modded rearsets; relocated ignition.
'91 Bros 650 Mk1>
Currently off the road.
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Ok, so like I thought the flange SHOULD BE in the recess, correct???...My only question to that is I can't seem to get it on that way, the teeth keep me from lining up the bolt holes, should I try to just force/push the flange back further onto the shaft????...I am thinking that is why someone put it on backwards, b/c it seems to not go on the right way, what I mean is there is not room for the flange to turn slightly in the recess b/c it keeps hitting the side of the recess, I'll try again and report back, thanks DEF...Damn right it's a Hawk GT
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Ok, so I confirmed the problem just now...On the shaft there is a ridge/smooth part around the shaft that allows the flange to spin to line up the holes in the sprocket...Problem is I can't get the flange back far enough to that ridge in the shaft to allow the teeth on the flange to enter the ridge area of the shaft (no teeth of course in the ridge of the shaft) and spin a small amount to line up the holes in the sprocket...Either the sprocket is not a standard sprocket (it is too fat) or something and that is why the freakin put the sprocket on backwards...I've got a new sprocket coming from Hord, should be here today and I'll see if it fits...The problem is the flange hits the "unrecessed" part of the sprocket just slightly before I get to the ridge on the shaft, thus the sprocket is stopping it from going back just a hair into the ridge on the shaft that would allow the flange to drop down into the recess area and line up the holes...Am I making this clear, damn it is hard to explain something that seems so simple until you try to explain it, I can shoot some photos if you all don't understand what I am saying just let me know, suggestions???
Thanks,
Jason
Here is a pic of what I am talking about:
Damn right it's a Hawk GT
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Ok, doesn't matter anymore b/c the postman just brought my presents from Mr. HordOk, so I want to make sure I have the sprocket on the right way since I am new to the Hawk...Please see the pic below...The "JT logo and part number" are facing away from the engine along with the higher "circular" raised area of the sprocket...I checked it both ways but this is the way that lines up with the plastic gaurd on top of the swing arm that the chain rides on, so I am figuring this is right, can someone please let me know so I can tighten everything back up...Also just to be sure, I AM suppose to put locktite on all sprocket bolts, and the sprocket cover bolts correct? Thanks,
Damn right it's a Hawk GT
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I don't think it's necessary to locktite the sprocket cover bolts.'88 Bros NT650J
Progressive fork springs, '93 CBR600 F2 fork caps, CBR900RR rear shock, Puig 'Raptor' fly screen
Fabitappi Monoposto seat cover, Heated grips, Braided brake lines, Buell indicators/turn signals
Ceramic coated stock headers with custom Yoshi shorty muffler & Muzzy collector
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I've never bothered loctite-ing them either. Man, I'm an accident waiting to happen ...
'95 ShaftHawk 650P>
Front: Bros Mk2 front wheel; Mk1 forks; MetalGear disc; NC30 caliper; cb1 yoke.
Breathing: Hacked up and shortened ART tri-can on collector and link pipe from DemonTweeks.
Other: RGV bars; DefT dash; modded subframe; modded rearsets; relocated ignition.
'91 Bros 650 Mk1>
Currently off the road.
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