Battery Cover - really necessary?

[Rick]

Hi everyone,

Working on my new 89 hawk restoration, and noticed that the battery cover isn't there... are there parts on it that's really necessary? I see a fuse in the parts fische, but can't be sure if it's actually plugged into the cover..

Also, any suggestions on rust removal in the tank? I've tried rattling nuts
in there; soaking with phosphoric acid for house; and ended with a bad local radiator shop who put a hole on the bottom of the tank and power washed it........ still rusted inside...... already out 60bucks and a whole day and a half, but no where near getting rid of the damned rust.

Thanks in advance for any help I can get here.

Rick

[ponley]

I have used this in the past, the full kit comes with an acid etch (not sure what kind of acid) but after the etch (which if I recall correctly you allow to sit overnight after agitating) you use MEK to rinse/dry the tank (MEK absorbs water) and then use the coating to seal the tank. If you take your time and do the job right you will have a tank with a clean sealed liner that will solve your rust problem. I have actually used this on a tank that was leaking at a seam it worked well.

http://www.instantop.com/CyclePage/Kreem.htm

[Vtwin650]

The Battery cover is not neccessary. Neither of my Hawks have them, and it has never been a problem. I do not know what the fuse you are seeing in the fische?

[Rick]

Thanks for the replies.

Ponley, I've actually read alot of negative reviews on the kreem... likely to be caused by impatient users, i suppose. Polly will end up giving it a shot at this stage.

vtwin650, thanks again for your help. I'll have to dig deeper into this restoration project, and figure things out some more.

Any advise on how to remove the filter set, in the tank-wrapped around the petcock?

[Doc]

That fuse in the battery cover is just a spare.

[ponley]

As I said it's important to do it right. You should plan on a 3 day project (you don't need to be present the whole time) But as I recall the etch needs to spend about a day in the tank and then you neutralize and rinse with MEK, then you make sure the tank is dry and then you coat the tank which is the step that really needs a lot of attention. You need to remove the petcock and seal all openings then pour the Kreem into the tank and then you need to roll the tank around to coat the entire inside surface, I would roll the tank for about 10 minutes every half hour for several hours to insure a good thick coating and when the whole process was done the tank had a really nice white coating that worked quite well. I also put an airline into the petcock opening and set the regulator to about 10 psi and allowed air to blow through the tank for a couple days to really dry the coating. It is a plastic material that is melted by MEK and if you don't get all the MEK dried out of it before you start using it I could definatly see the first fillup messing up the coating.

Granted a lot of work but at the price of a new tank I found it well worth it.

[JR]

I to had a rusty tank. There were 2 options send it to a radiator repair shop that would open up the bottom of the tank and sand blast it and then spray the inside with a hard coating, which I think they put in an oven to cure. Trouble is it affects the outside paint so you end up need to get the tank resprayed. The second option is the one I used which was to buy the POR15 tank kit which takes a few days if done correctly but it does work.

[Rick]

Thanks for all the replies!
Mother's Day took up the whole weekend. I'm hoping to have the tank sorted out, and have some more exciting progress by next weekend.
Wish me luck!

Thanks again.