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Won't idle even when warm, choke issue?

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    #1

    Won't idle even when warm, choke issue?

    So, if I open full choke, start cold, it'll idle for about 30-40 seconds then it dies.

    Once warm, it will not idle at full or min/off choke.

    Bike ran fine for my last ride 1.5 weeks ago.

    Talked to previous owner, he suggested that when I pulled full choke that the choke assembly (he forgot to notify me of it being "funny" on full choke) on the clip on may have moved and the choke cable may have become out of adjustment not choking the carbs at the same amount and thus since they couldn't run alike it put the bike off balance and it'd die... Which sounds probable since the idle before it dies (during that 30-40 seconds) is NOT stable and varies quite a bit before falling on it's face.

    So, to fix this right... I would guess I need to cinch down the assembly on the clip on and probably put a new choke cable/springs on it? Is this tough and are there any pointers I should now about before I order parts? I have access to the online manual and have a fair sense of no fear when ripping into stuff - but want to do it right.

    I'm not an experienced hawk mechanic - I've charged the battery once ...but I have worked a fair amount on my old VWs

    Thanks for any pointers or opinions!
    Hawkless... Traded it back for my assault rifle.
    Tags: None
    #2
    no idle

    are you using the idle speed adjustment screw properly??that's why it's there for you.

    if mixture screws have been reset from lean original setting, then,in this warm weather, your use of choke may be unnecessary; and you're actually flooding the plugs with too much fuel, which causes engine to die.

    so, to start, simply turn in idle screw about 1/2 turn and don't use choke; when engine warms up later, you'll need to bring idle speed back down to about 1200 using screw.
    also, it's a good idea to periodically open up the drain screws at bottom of carbs and drain out rust, water, etc.

    to solve this problem you should get used to pulling a sparkplug from each cylinder to check whether they are flooded with fuel or what??

    also, maybe you could use some new, fresh plugs??
    "It's only getting worse."


    MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

    Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.

    Comment

      #3
      Re: no idle

      I actually haven't used the idle speed adj screw yet. Bike is still pretty much as I received it from the PO.

      Flooding the plugs sounds logical - that's probably exactly what I'm doing.

      Pardon, but 1/2 turn clockwise or anti-clockwise? Noted on the drain screws. I'll give this all a shot and report back . Thanx for the help. Asking such newby questions on some of my other boards (landcruiser/vw) often is met with slamming and trash talk, it's nice to actually get help
      Hawkless... Traded it back for my assault rifle.

      Comment

        #4
        many riders mistakenly use their choke to achieve a fast-idle when warming up their bike; however this is incorrect proceedure, since use of choke unnecessarily wastes fuel, fouls plugs, dilutes engine oil, and causes ring and cylinder wear.

        instead, use idle adjustment screw (with plastic nob) to set fast idle with NO choke used, then later lower idle speed to correct 1200 rpm setting.

        turning screw clockwise (as viewed from BELOW) increases idle speed.

        maybe you need to start by finding this screw on your left side near carb cables and experimentally going in or out about 1 turn each way to see the result.
        "It's only getting worse."


        MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

        Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.

        Comment

          #5
          Good advice man, thank you very much!
          Hawkless... Traded it back for my assault rifle.

          Comment

            #6
            Originally Posted by squirrelman
            many riders mistakenly use their choke to achieve a fast-idle when warming up their bike; however this is incorrect proceedure, since use of choke unnecessarily wastes fuel, fouls plugs, dilutes engine oil, and causes ring and cylinder wear.
            Well, my bike's got over 50k on it and I start it on the choke every time. I can live with that. I don't really *warm it up* either to be honest.
            '95 ShaftHawk 650P>
            Front: Bros Mk2 front wheel; Mk1 forks; MetalGear disc; NC30 caliper; cb1 yoke.
            Breathing: Hacked up and shortened ART tri-can on collector and link pipe from DemonTweeks.
            Other: RGV bars; DefT dash; modded subframe; modded rearsets; relocated ignition.

            '91 Bros 650 Mk1>
            Currently off the road.

            Comment

              #7
              Originally Posted by DefTrap
              Originally Posted by squirrelman
              many riders mistakenly use their choke to achieve a fast-idle when warming up their bike; however this is incorrect proceedure, since use of choke unnecessarily wastes fuel, fouls plugs, dilutes engine oil, and causes ring and cylinder wear.
              Well, my bike's got over 50k on it and I start it on the choke every time. I can live with that. I don't really *warm it up* either to be honest.
              +1

              Mine's nearly 70k miles old. I start her with about 1/2 choke every time. No trouble so far...


              E

              Comment

                #8
                never indended to suggest u shouldn't use choke to start, but u should push choke off AS SOON AS POSSIBLE
                "It's only getting worse."


                MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

                Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.

                Comment

                  #9
                  My carbs are driving me insane!!! the right hand carb is flooding the shit out of itself. the left one seems ok but when running theres gas spilling out of the overflow tube..and i took the air cleaner off to find that the right hand carb is soaked in fuel...the bike is stock and running extremely rich because of this and is unridable. anyone have ideas? i have the float bowl off now but everything looks fine.
                  1989 Hawk Gt

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally Posted by squirrelman
                    never indended to suggest u shouldn't use choke to start, but u should push choke off AS SOON AS POSSIBLE
                    I use the choke according to MOM: normal or cold temps, until 1500-2000. I usually put it on full, then slide it back to 1/2 after starting until it evens out, no more than half a minute.

                    I know that using the throttle with the choke on or leaving the choke on past the recommended timeframe will likely cause problems, esp. fouled plugs.
                    '89 Hawk GT

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