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    Front end advice

    Hey all,
    So I have been riding everyday this summer and have been having a ball even though it is mostly commuting.

    I have a big empty parking lot I stop at every few days and just do figure eights for 15 minutes or so. It has made me ride with a whole ton more of confidence in the corners. It makes me want to hit the track but frankly I just don't have the time or money to do that.

    Anyway my point is I am still running the stock suspension(with new proressive springs) and am really starting to notice it's weak spots.

    So the question is, what is the best band for the buck?
    I would love the look of a USD fork but think it is probably overkill, is the f3 that much better, and what about the welding up the holes and thicker oil?

    Not sure which way to go.

    Then there is that monoshock question to answer after that.

    The caveat is that I am a short dude at 5'6" and 130 lbs and am probably not going to be racing this thing. Seems like that should make a difference.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.

    Smell ya later.
    ARRH Don't mind me, that's just the scurvy talkin!

    #2
    Re: Front end advice

    Originally Posted by motorpsycho
    Hey all,
    So I have been riding everyday this summer and have been having a ball even though it is mostly commuting.

    I have a big empty parking lot I stop at every few days and just do figure eights for 15 minutes or so. It has made me ride with a whole ton more of confidence in the corners. It makes me want to hit the track but frankly I just don't have the time or money to do that.

    Anyway my point is I am still running the stock suspension(with new proressive springs) and am really starting to notice it's weak spots.

    So the question is, what is the best band for the buck?
    I would love the look of a USD fork but think it is probably overkill, is the f3 that much better, and what about the welding up the holes and thicker oil?

    Not sure which way to go.

    Then there is that monoshock question to answer after that.

    The caveat is that I am a short dude at 5'6" and 130 lbs and am probably not going to be racing this thing. Seems like that should make a difference.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.

    Smell ya later.
    Your suspension is only as good as your tires will allow so if you have old or crap tires on the bike the best suspesnion in the world is not going to make the bike handle like a race bike. So how are your tires???

    On to the suspension of the Hawk the forks do not need to be replaced. The 41mm forks are more than the Hawk needs but they can use some help. You will not find progressive springs on fast race bikes but they are good for all around street riding as they were designed. If you invest in RaceTech Gold Valves and the proper straight rate springs and oil for the bike and your weight and a set of quality "new" tires not quality "10 year old" tires you can make the Hawk wonderful on the front end. For your weight the rear stock shock and spring rate should work well if the shock is still in good working order.

    Something that most people tend to forget is proper air presure when setting up ones suspension. Most bikes that I have seen ride like crap becasue they are running 20psi in the tires becasue they have never checked the tires.

    Comment


      #3
      Although tkm433 is correct and his suggestions would produce a much improved hawking experience you should weight the cost.

      After you buy the gold valves, the straight rate springs, fork seals, and pay someone to overhaul your forks you could just as easily put that couple hudred bucks toward a set of late F2 cartridge forks or even F3's. You would get your straight rate springs plus externally adjustable forks. Given the choice between Gold valves and cartridge forks I would take the cartridge forks everytime. Some would argue that it's a bigger bang for your buck.

      Having said that he is absolutely correct air is free and it makes a bigger difference than any other factor. Find a pressure that you like and check it regularly.
      Faster than your mother... She's what the pros use.

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks Guys,

        I do need some new tires and that is on the list. They are in fair shape but about 5 years old and getting a bit of a commuters flat spot in the rear.
        I do check my tire pressure regularly though as I had no in the past and found one day I was riding on very low pressure.

        I am keeping my eye out for a reasonably priced set of cartridge forks. I guess if I find some for cheap I'll give em a shot.

        Thanks
        ARRH Don't mind me, that's just the scurvy talkin!

        Comment


          #5
          A point to remember if you go with the F3 and later forks is that you loose your speedometer as it does not fit up with the hawk cable.

          If you want a speedometer you are pretty much channeled down the digital route which will set you back $100.00+.
          88' NT650 Hawk - 2nd owner
          <94 F2 front end // Fox TC // Telefix clip on // Hord Uni + 3.0 kit>

          92' VFR 750 - 3rd owner


          86' Rebel 450 - Free off craigslist!

          Comment


            #6
            I'm allready in the digital realm, so speedo is not an issue.
            ARRH Don't mind me, that's just the scurvy talkin!

            Comment


              #7
              Originally Posted by motorpsycho
              Thanks Guys,

              I do need some new tires and that is on the list. They are in fair shape but about 5 years old and getting a bit of a commuters flat spot in the rear.
              I do check my tire pressure regularly though as I had no in the past and found one day I was riding on very low pressure.

              I am keeping my eye out for a reasonably priced set of cartridge forks. I guess if I find some for cheap I'll give em a shot.

              Thanks
              Oh my! I am so jealous, on the RC51 I go through three rear tires and a front in a season. Pretty much every 2500 to 3000 miles for the rear. On the Hawk it looks like it will be one set every summer mostly because I don't ride it as often, I doubt I'll put more than 4K on the Hawk this year. The only bikes I've had that didn't eat tires were the Nortons and that was mostly due to the amazingly hard Dunlops it was wearing. Of course the trade off was a complete lack of grip. I have Pirelli Corsas on the Hawk and have been running Dunlop Qualifiers on the RC.
              1988 Hawk, 2002 RC51
              I prefer V-twins and pistols designs from 1911

              Comment


                #8
                Originally Posted by thepathlesstaken
                If you want a speedometer you are pretty much channeled down the digital route which will set you back $100.00+.
                ... or a Sigma if you're cheap.
                '95 ShaftHawk 650P>
                Front: Bros Mk2 front wheel; Mk1 forks; MetalGear disc; NC30 caliper; cb1 yoke.
                Breathing: Hacked up and shortened ART tri-can on collector and link pipe from DemonTweeks.
                Other: RGV bars; DefT dash; modded subframe; modded rearsets; relocated ignition.

                '91 Bros 650 Mk1>
                Currently off the road.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Motorpsycho,

                  When I got my Hawk (in 1996), the PO had put race tech gold valves in the stock forks (with stock springs, I believe).

                  I've had the forks rebuilt once or twice by a local shop since then.

                  I'm happy with them (but I don't ride on the track or anything).

                  Also, I pm'ed you about rear suspension.

                  Ron

                  Comment

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