anyone had this problem,id imagine someone has as its the second time for me,bought an engine on friday,the front mount had been grinded from the frame,have tried to heat it,soaked it in wd40 overnight and tried drilling which wont work as its to awkward to get in at,any ideas appreciated
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88 Hawk GT:Africa twin 750 donkey,Pgm loom with AT Cdi,Cbr F3 Frontend with K-tech internals,Fireblade Shock gased and valved,650 carbs with dynojet Stage 3,Full race system with Laser deeptone pipe,Braided brakelines with HH pads
88 Bros 650:Magnesium wheels,663 Wiseco,TBR Ignition Advancer,153x1 Cams.....Is Alive
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I managed to get mine out without too much agro a couple of months back.
Support the engine with a car jack, you'll need to adjust this a little as the bolt comes out.
Turn the bold to loosen it before you try to bash it through.
Don't hit it too hard, you don't want to whack it out of shape, it's best to pull it through as much as possible.
There's 2 spacers that the bolt goes through between the frame and the engine, if the bolt gets stuck at any point this will be where it happens, try moving the jack a little to put less pressure on the bolt.
I don't think I neeed to use any WD40 to get mine out, just plenty of patience. -
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the problem is not getting it out,this is a replacement engine which i bought that had been cut from the frame of another bike and has got the mount still in the front which is not moving whatsoever and is preventing me from installing it into my frame88 Hawk GT:Africa twin 750 donkey,Pgm loom with AT Cdi,Cbr F3 Frontend with K-tech internals,Fireblade Shock gased and valved,650 carbs with dynojet Stage 3,Full race system with Laser deeptone pipe,Braided brakelines with HH pads
88 Bros 650:Magnesium wheels,663 Wiseco,TBR Ignition Advancer,153x1 Cams.....Is AliveComment
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Been there too. The long steel bolt really gets good and corroded to the spacers.
-You have pieces of the frame still attached to the loose motor? -WOW. Destroyed a frame just for the motor. May have been wrecked already.
Best bet might be to buy a new long bolt, buy (or make) new spacers, and just cut through the bolt and spacer in one cut, on the engine end of the spacer. Using a large hammer and a drift punch, pound the steel center (bolt) through. Once it starts moving, it should get easier.
I've had it apart, there is nothing solid stopping the bolt if there is no nut (or head) on it. -Just corrosion.-I'm sorry....I did not know she was your sister.
-If Buckleys cold mixture went rancid......how would anybody know????
-Dont piss off the quiet guy with the chain saw.Comment
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the things you have to do huh
thanks for advice,persistance is the key here 
88 Hawk GT:Africa twin 750 donkey,Pgm loom with AT Cdi,Cbr F3 Frontend with K-tech internals,Fireblade Shock gased and valved,650 carbs with dynojet Stage 3,Full race system with Laser deeptone pipe,Braided brakelines with HH pads
88 Bros 650:Magnesium wheels,663 Wiseco,TBR Ignition Advancer,153x1 Cams.....Is AliveComment
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I was just about to say ask rob321"Life may begin at 40, but it doesn't get real interesting until about 150."
- '88 in Candy Flair Blue + '90 in Italian Red
- Ohlins Rear Shock
- F2 front wheel
- VFR750 rear wheel
- Hiperform seat&headers
- MSMotorsport Seat Cowl
- Steve Lenac Tokico six pot caliper
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