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explanation TBR variable ignition advancer needed!!

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    explanation TBR variable ignition advancer needed!!

    I just received my pretty-purty TwoBrothersRacing variable ignition advancer, but there wasn't a manual to go with it.

    Could one of the tuners (meaning you Hord ) explain to me how to read it, and what the best setting for a standard Hawk engine would be (except for exhaust and K&N pods)

    small explanation of my Paint masterpiece-de-resístance

    the grey lines represent the engraved lines on the adjustment ring, the red numbers go with these

    the blue lines represent the spaces between the engraved lines, the yellow letters go with these spaces

    the purple arrow is the spike on the main body, the green stripes are the 2 small engraved lines.
    the green letters go with these.

    I know that the rotor is adjustable by 2 degrees, but where is the "zero"(standard that would be) setting for the rotor? how do i read this? and what is the OPTIMAL setting for my engine?



    thanks for anyone who can be of help
    also known as Pretpiloot.

    riding the scraphawk, and the Frankenstein CB250RS

    #2
    damnit, forgot the image

    edited my first post lol
    also known as Pretpiloot.

    riding the scraphawk, and the Frankenstein CB250RS

    Comment


      #3
      I THINK... dead center is standard.
      BIKES: Honda: RC31 Racebike/ NT650 Streetbike, DUCATI: None at the moment.
      Former MSF Rider Coach / Trackday Instructor/ Expert Roadracer #116
      "I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow."

      Comment


        #4
        Each line is 2 degrees. The center line is "0" or standard timing. (however you will note that the rotor assy. can be moved on the crank splines a little, so it is all relative!) If you move the toothed wheel in crankshaft direction (clockwise) that advances the timing. If you move the wheel anti-clockwise, that retards the timing. Easy.

        As far as "best" timing, that is hard to say. In general, a stock engine will like a few degrees of advance. An engine with more compression (whether you do it via head milling or big bore kit, or both) tend to like a few degrees less timing. However I have seen engines that did not obey these rules, so it is always best to try several combinations! I have a programmable ignition, so all I have to do is make a few mouse clicks to change mine.
        J.D. Hord
        Keeper of Engine Nomenclature, 9th Order

        Comment


          #5
          Luuk, ga gewoon naar MAD. Mark had hem er bij mij ook zo inzitten.
          What was the start of all this?
          When did the cogs of my Hawk begin to turn?
          Perhaps it is impossible to grasp the answer now,
          from deep within the flow of time...

          But, for a certainty, back then,
          I loved it so much, yet hated so many.
          I hurt others and was hurt myself...

          Yet even then, I rode like the wind,
          whilst my laughter echoed
          under cerulean skies...

          Comment


            #6
            Originally Posted by Dash
            Luuk, ga gewoon naar MAD. Mark had hem er bij mij ook zo inzitten.
            I know, but yours isn't variable and i can put it in myself

            @ Hord&Doc: thanx!

            Going to try out the different settings then, starting with 3 or 4 degrees advance
            also known as Pretpiloot.

            riding the scraphawk, and the Frankenstein CB250RS

            Comment


              #7
              Originally Posted by Hordpower
              Each line is 2 degrees. The center line is "0" or standard timing. (however you will note that the rotor assy. can be moved on the crank splines a little, so it is all relative!) If you move the toothed wheel in crankshaft direction (clockwise) that advances the timing. If you move the wheel anti-clockwise, that retards the timing. Easy.

              As far as "best" timing, that is hard to say. In general, a stock engine will like a few degrees of advance. An engine with more compression (whether you do it via head milling or big bore kit, or both) tend to like a few degrees less timing. However I have seen engines that did not obey these rules, so it is always best to try several combinations! I have a programmable ignition, so all I have to do is make a few mouse clicks to change mine.
              what does one of those programmable gizmo's cost?
              also known as Pretpiloot.

              riding the scraphawk, and the Frankenstein CB250RS

              Comment

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