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**SVHUNTER** · 06-25-2006, 11:32 AM

xvr 750 africa engine direct fit. only in uk problem! or just call his hordness drop 2-5 grand your done! I just got mine from jd frikin sweet!
sv

**Blade_Zero** · 06-25-2006, 01:00 PM

Excluding jetting & pipes, swapping a stock NT650 motor for a stock XRV750 will only deliver modest performance gains, from approximately 50 RWHP to 60 RWHP.
However Africaqueens offer a 840 bore kit giving 70 RWHP output. The advantage being that the XRV motor is comparatively under-stressed.
If you stressed the XRV motor further with head work, porting, polishing, Ti valves, cam shafts, increasing compression, advancing ignition ect, ect, then you could expect 90 RWHP. This is approaching the power output of the VTR1000 of 100 RWHP.

You have to change out the front and rear sprockets to counter act the low trail bike gearing.

Blade

**Blade_Zero** · 06-25-2006, 01:48 PM

Here is a detailed guide to the swap, I havn't done it myself, was just curious, like you.

Well I am finally done,except for the final clean-up. After a
short ride today it seems to be running great. Although after switching
the 4 (yes 4) coils over I lost my tach. The list that follows is a
detailed list of everything I ran into. First I still need to sell my
700cc engine and other misc. parts to pay for the conversion if anyone
can help.

1. The spline for the countershaft sprocket is that of a F-2, my 520 is
on order....the gear ratios are different between the engines also,
not by much but a little.

2. The carbs have fatter needles and smaller jets 118 front & 122
rear.....I am running my Hawk carbs with a shim under my needles,
stock jets, top of the airbox removed, and a Dale Walker exhaust.

3. The pulse generators come off the opposite side (rotating magnet)
but do have the same connections as the Hawks.....no problems here.

4. The CDI box is completely different you must take extreme care of it
when you are hooking up the wires.....I have a conversion diagram
for those who are attempting this.

5. The valve covers have access holes for valve adjustments and the
rear cover has a 90 degree pipe for a breather....I cut it 1" from
the cover to fit into the air box, it is also smaller in diameter so
I used a clamp to tighten the hose on the tube.

6. The oil cooler comes off an adapter on the oil filter.....I removed
the cooler and the adapter because the tube begin to leak with an
force on them, I am planning on reinstalling it when I can make some
handmade lines(aircraft hardware is what I will probobly use).

7. The voltage regulator connector is different for the power and
ground side.....I needed this also, mine failed 2 weeks ago...it
works great.

8. There is no oil tube for the heads that comes off the right case
cover.....I will find out why soon.

9. The clutch cable holder on the engine needs to be switched with that
of the hawks.

10. The 4 coils from the Twin need to be swapped over to replace the
2 on the Hawk......this was what my problem was last night, why 4
coils I dunno.

11. The molelex connector on the oil pressure sensor and the neutral
sensor is a direct opposite than the one on the hawk....I just
swicthed them.

12. The exhaust studs are longer....I used the longer cap nuts from the
twin on the Hawks exhaust.

So the list is complete you will need the following for the conv.
1. Twin engine.
2. CDI box and connector from the Twin.
3. The 4 coils from the Twin.
4. F-2 counter shaft sprocket that fits your chain size already on your
Hawk.
5. The oil filter stud from the Hawk.
6. Clutch cable adjustment bracket from the Hawk engine.
7. The connector off the Hawks engine for the oil pressure sensor and
neutral switch.

Well that should be it, not so bad, actually it was pretty easy.....now
to bore it out!!!!!!!!!!!not yet.

See ya on the flip side...
Taz

**reagansdad** · 06-27-2006, 07:22 PM

thanks alot guys. by the way what kind of mileage are you guys getting.
I am going to have use this bike as a commuter.

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