Supertrapp Dismantle

[cjp377]

Has anyone dismantled their Supertrapp exhaust to repack it?

I recently bought a Bros 650 with a Supertrapp that has seen better days. I was hoping to ressurect it by dismantling it and repacking it.

I have seen on the net that it might be better to repack with stainless wool http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/exhaust.htm. Any thoughts?

[Tusk]

It's been over 10 years since I repacked mine. And I have made it a winter project this year.

I think the best way would be to remove the can from the bike. Do not remove the discs. Remove the bolt holding the baffle in then insert a broom handle (with some Duct tape wrapped around the top) in. Keeping the handle on the floor, tap the can up and down on the handle. You may need some penetrating oil (Wd-40 or 3-in-1 etc..) put around the edges where the discs are to help out. Sometimes, a long break between oilings to let it....(wait for it!)..... penetrate!
It may take a while, but be gentle so as to not damage the cap. It should work it's way out.

My insert is pretty rusted around the edges, so I plan on taking a wire brush to it to clean it up good as well.

I can't speak to the stainless wool idea. At the I did mine last Supertrapp had a fiberglass repacking kit I bought. However I planned on using fiberglass packing for 4 stroke dirt bikes.
I did take a look at the link and it's a car application. I don't think our bikes can melt the fiberglass easily, unless they're really out of tune. (someone correct me if I'm wrong)

Good luck Mate!

[cjp377]

I've contacted Supertrapp regarding the dismantle of their exhaust and got the following replies:

To replace the packing or remove the core you need to do the following:

1. Take the muffler off of the bike.

2. Remove the endcap (3 screws holding it on).

3. Remove the screw that is on the bottom of the backend of the muffler (holds
the core in).

4. There are 2 rivits holding the nameplate, drill out rivit nearest to the back end of muffler.

5. Put a dowel or handle of some sort into the inlet end of the muffler, at this point it will either hit a screen or it will go all the way down to the disks. Tap against the disks or the screen and push the core out the back end of the muffler.
If you have the screen that means you have the Quiet core, if you can see straight thru to the disks then you have the race core.

6. When you get the core out you will need to remove any left over packing, then just make sure the holes in the perforated tube are clear.
Wrap the new packing around the tube, use masking tape at the top and around the middle to hold the packing in place then line up the holes and shove the core back in.

The screws that hold the disks on should be tightened to 15 inch pounds or once the screw heads hit the disks turn them 2 more turns, then check after your first ride and make any adjustment. Also it is very important that you use anti-seize lubricant liberally on the screws that hold the disks onto the core.

One misconception is that the more free-flowing an exhaust system is, the more power it makes, which is not true. Some back pressure (2-3 PSI) is necessary for maximum power and that it why it is necessary to use the disks with your SuperTrapp. The number of disks you use depends on your application: displacement, disc diameter and power band.

Regarding re-jetting we suggest that you first put the SuperTrapp on the bike or ATV and tune it to the stock set-up. Once the SuperTrapp is tuned to the bike and it is running the way you want, you can then go up in the jet sizes, add a free flowing air filter and then add more disks for more horsepower.

Fewer discs reduce sound levels, increase low-end torque and richen carbureted fuel mixture. More discs increase sound levels, increase top-end power and lean out carbureted fuel mixture. Generally on a stock set up (no engine mods, stock carb and air filter) you can start with 6-8 disks on the Dirt bikes and ATV’s, on the Harley’s start with 12 disks. Remember that altitude, humidity and the state of tune of the bike affect how many disks you will use.

Attention should be paid to the coloration of the discs. Little or no disc coloration would indicate a possible lean condition, while black or sooty discs are indicative of a rich or oil burning condition. Discs that turn a tan or golden color would illustrate an acceptable balance of fuel mixture and exhaust flow.

Reading a spark plug is undoubtedly the quickest way to find whether everything in the engine is working as it should. It will also tell if the SuperTrapp has been tuned properly. A rust-brown color of the spark plug indicates that the plug is operating smoothly (exhaust is tuned correctly), whereas a whitish look indicates that the burn is too lean (take a disk or 2 off). A blackish deposit on the electrodes ( left by traces of oil or fuel) indicates that the burn is too rich (add a disk or two).

Thought this might be useful, although they do say that this is now a discontinued model.

[cjp377]

Thought someone might like to know that having finally dismantled my Supertrapp can, I was confronted by no packing at all and a rusted end on the core. The rust was around the rim of the end of the core to which everything bolts (called an IBC appartently, although I have no idea what that stands for).

I contacted Supertrapp to see if either just the IBC or the whole core were still available as a replacement part. They were extremely helpful and are sending me a replacement IBC FOC. They also informed me that the whole core is available, P/N 041-1828, for $63.10.

My intention is to remove the rusted IBC from the perforated tube, which is in OK condition, and weld the replacement one in it's place, repack with fibreglass wool and reassemble the whole thing. With a bit of cleaning up, I should have a mint exhaust system again. Might even treat it to some new baffle rings and use a few more than are currently installed (already have K&N and Dynojet).

Will let you know how I get on, but at the moment I can't praise Supertrapp enough for their customer service.