Forks too soft

[Stevenjhow]

my front forks are extremely soft. When I hit the brakes they bottom out, just sitting on the bike makes them squish down with about an inch or so left. I am only 145lbs and this makes it very rough when riding. Are there any other springs I can use from other bikes to stiffen the front end up? ( 900rr springs, f2, f3, f4 springs and so on?) does anyone know what springs would fit and what would be the best? I know I should spend the money and just get aftermarket race springs but I can't afford it right now, I just need a cheap fix, and fast. Ideas?

[JR]

Info from the other Hawk Site

The stock springs can be stiffened by cutting some of the coils (all things being equal, a shorter spring will offer more resistance). Start by cutting two coils from the soft (tightly wound) end of each spring. You will need longer spacers to compensate. One inch (inner diameter) PVC pipe is inexpensive, easy to cut, and works well for making spacers. A good rule of thumb is that the spring rate is correct if spacers are flush with the top of the fork tube, and when assembled, static sag
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Progressive makes progressively wound springs for the Hawk. These are stiffer than stock. Progressive's part number for these springs is #1126, and they include installation documentation
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Race Tech makes straight rate springs for the Hawk. The spring rate is based on your weight and riding style
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Steps to change front fork springs: 1. Put the bike on the centerstand, and put something under the motor cases to lift the front wheel. I use a small bottle jack, but a stack of 2x4's works fine, too. 1.5 Tape an old towel onto your tank with duct tape to the frame to protect it. Having a supply of rags on hand isn't a bad idea. 2. With a 17mm wrench, remove the caps from the forks. When it comes out, it will "POP" and the cap will be pushed up around an inch by the spacer and spring compression. 3. Take out the spacers, taking care not to drip fork oil on anything thatyou don't want it on. I throw these away, but that's your option. 4. Have someone remove the jack or the stack of 2x4's from under the motor while you hold the back end of the bike down (which will hold the front wheel in the air). Slowly allow the front end to compress by slowly letting the back end of the bike up. It will stop with the forks collapsed, and the stock springs about 1 1/2" down. 5. Under the spacers on top of the springs is a washer. Take these out, and pull out the springs. They will be almost totally immersed in oil, so go slow, with an "unscrewing motion" if you really are meticulous (I was once....), with a rag handy to catch drips. 6. I like to adjust the oil level to 4 1/2" below the top of the fork tube with the springs out and the forks collapsed. This helps give the front end some resilience. I use 15 wt fork oil. This step is optional. 7. Drop in the new springs, tightly wound end downward. 8. Firmly push the back end of the bike back down, and have your helper put the jack or stack of 2x4's back under the engine. The top of the springs will be anywhere from 1 to several inches down in the tubes, depending on which spring is being used. 9. Put the washers that were in between the spacers and the springs back in. 10. Cut 1" ID schedule 40 PVC spacers to such a length so that they stick out about about an inch, (which is just a starting point). 11. Put the fork caps back in with a 17mm wrench. A ratchet is useful here, as is someone else to lift up on the handlebar, or push down on the wrench, while you try to turn it, without cross threading the aluminum cap into the steel fork tube. (Really, it's not that bad, I did it myself today...) 12. Check static sag: A. put a zip tie tight around one fork tube. B. have your assistant hold the bike upright while you sit on it in riding position. C. have them slide the zip tie down snug on the fork lower. D. get off the bike, without bumping it up and down. E. have your helper pull up on the bars to fully extend the forks, and measure the distance that the zip tie is from the fork slider. You want this distance to be around 1 to 1 1/2 inches, as a starting point, and adjust it according to your preferences and the type of roads that you frequent.

[Necro-99]

I had the same problem with my '88. It had a completely stock fork setup and, like you, it was bottoming out all the time. I installed a set of the Progressive 1126 springs ($80) and a set of Cartridge Emulators ($125) and it made a huge difference. The installation isn't as scary as it seems.

[Tusk]

I had the same problem with my '88. It had a completely stock fork setup and, like you, it was bottoming out all the time. I installed a set of the Progressive 1126 springs ($80) and a set of Cartridge Emulators ($125) and it made a huge difference. The installation isn't as scary as it seems.

Ditto here as well. I did the Progressives about 15 years ago and finally got around to the emulators 2 years ago. Man what a difference!

A couple pics of the damping rod in the forks: (Click for full size)

With the Emulator on top...


The extra hole that is needed...


I've got more (unexciting) pics I can send you if you want to see more of the procedure.

[Vtwin650]

if you need to do it on a budget, you will be pleasantly surprised how much better it will feel if you simply just rebuild the forks with new oil and seals.

I did this on the "barn hawk" because the forks would bottom out on small bumps. after the simple rebuild, the forks felt great.

[Tusk]

if you need to do it on a budget, you will be pleasantly surprised how much better it will feel if you simply just rebuild the forks with new oil and seals.

Vtwin650's got a point. New oil (heavier or OEM recommended) will make a big difference AND it's quickiest/easiest. Especially if it's never been done before!

I actually have the original seals still in.... If they're not leaking... ((shrug))