Track prepping a Hawk

[Doc]

So I have my SnowHawk ($500) and I am spending some time getting it ready for next years race season.

This will pretty much entail a complete rebuild.

Here is my list.

1. Make sure the bike runs (Done)
2. Rewire stuff (mostly done)
3. Reduce weight
4. Change Suspension to an F4i front, with f4i rim and wave rotors($650 done) and a Upgrade the rear (Ohlins) DONE!
5. Get a baseline suspension setup (static Sag)
6. Tune up
clean/sync carbs (Done)
uni filters ($24)
New brake fluid ($4)
water wetter ($11)
plugs (free)
synthetic oil
Oil filter (free)
7. Tires... Got some Michelin Pilot Powers ($256) and I think some Dunlop race tires(F4 front, stock Rear)
8. Woodcraft Rearsets (around $200 don't have em yet)
9. 520 chain and sprockets (Done)
10. Shift kit and Clutch kit (done)
11. Some kind of Tach/Temp guage (Veypor gauges?)
12. RC51 race tail ($73 with shipping) and custom subframe (How much is that gonna run me? Gino?)
13. Tighten everything up and safety wire appropriate parts.

Some Misc/maybe Items
Lighter battery, go to a total loss system?
Radiator hoses
Gp shifting?
Paint?
Get the trailer ready....

I think that is a good start. Anyone have other suggestions that may be helpful to me or other first timers please post. I will update with what I spend here as well so I can keep track

[Doc]

Today I did a little work on the Hawk.

I made a lighter rear master cylinder with a tip from a friend (Thanks Gino)



I also put stainless bolts in the case covers...




And I ran the bike for about 10 minutes after putting some new Uni Filters on! The thing hasn't run that long in like 3 years!!!

Oh yeah and I did some work on my garage in preperation for winter.\

Here are my two birds of prey in my newly remodeled garage!

[kennie]

some food for thought.

I think that a 110 wheel will turn in quicker than a 120. (Stock vs. F4i)

Get a Hiperform subframe and some fiberglass tail and light seatpad - major weight savings - some fabrication (battery box and electrical relocation)

Maybe add a fiberglass 1/2 cafe fairing, loose the stock gauges and headlight. This might net the same weight, but will give you something to tuck behind.

You most likely will need to get a oil tight bellypan on there as well (depending on your local track rules.)

While you are doing fluids, try some water-wetter and some distilled water to replace your coolant.

Lose the ignition lockset and replace with a single heavy duty on off toggle switch.

That's all that comes to mind for the immediate future... I'm sure if things go well next season, a call to his Hordiness will be in order.

[Doc]

Thanks for the tips.

The subframe is on order, so I am gonna have to relocate the battery at some point.
I have the F4i front suspension and wheel coming too but i am keeping the stock rear.
I have the Water Wetter...
That toggle switch might be a good idea...
Thanks for the tips.

[brewsy]

Kennie,
although I agree that a 110 should turn quicker I'd hazard a guess that the stickiest rubber is no longer available in that size.
If youre racing Im sure overall grip is higher on the list than initial turn speed...
You can always yank harder on the bars to initiate the turn

[NT696]

FYI:
The water wetter product is good, definitely a must if you are track racing. I found out the hard way that it does absolutely nothing to prevent the water from freezing. I moved in winter once and started the bike to get it up the loading ramp. The water pump was a solid block of ice inside.... Snapped the impeller shaft where it connects to the oil pump shaft. ops: Fortunately, the hoses expanded enough to prevent the block from warping or cracking. Learn from my mistake if your bike is stored below freezing.

[Doc]

It is stored below freexing and I am gonna put antifreeze in it today!

[kennie]

Kennie,
although I agree that a 110 should turn quicker I'd hazard a guess that the stickiest rubber is no longer available in that size.
If youre racing Im sure overall grip is higher on the list than initial turn speed...
You can always yank harder on the bars to initiate the turn

DOH!
Finding racing slicks in a 110 will be hard as hell, but there are still some DOT-racing blends still available in that size. You're probably right to go 120 to get into slicks.

My last sport bike (FZR400) had a 140 rear tire... find that in some racing rubber!

t is stored below freexing and I am gonna put antifreeze in it today!

I never have to 'store' my bike (thank god for warm, socal weather!), but from what I understand, people seem to drain fluids before storage...
Or you can bring her into the house!

[Doc]

bump for an update

[Doc]

The F4i front!!!

[SMF]

just my $0.02 - feel free to ignore there were too many posts there to read through....
1. use regular oil unless you've got a kitted engine.. it's much easier for the cornerworkers to clean up (not that that will ever happen to you, but it's all about karma )
2. wave rotors? f4i front end? *drool* can I take it for a lap?????? DAMN!
3. sag - um. I need to set mine too, help each other a bit here?
4. new brake fluid - use racing brake fluid, it doesn't last as long, but is much better under stress
5. tires - if you're going to race don't waste your time with ANY street tires, get full-on race, you'll understand later, good rubber = confidence = lower lap times
6. shift kit????? wasssat?? you don't mean an electronic shifter do you? man if you do I'm going to make fun of you every lap I'm faster... I'll show you how to upshift without that exotic stuff
7. you're getting a Gino subframe.... aww man... now I'm jealous... Gino! hook me up!!!

seriously though... look forward to having another hawk at loudon next year

[Doc]

I like my front end too, I just have to get it sorted and make sure it works well then you can take it for a lap (with the Showa Works fork tubes off Nicky Haydens 1999 Erion racing F4i!!!)
I got the Pilot Powers and have thought better of it so I can use them for rains, I think I am gonna get a set or Pirellis for race.

Good point on the oil, that will save me a few bucks.

Definately can help with Sag/uspension set up. I have a good book.

Gino mentioned he may be able to hook me up with a subframe and some other goodies, I am gonna owe that man my first born!

Oh and the shift kit, it is a heavier spring and detent arm...

http://www.hawkgt.com/kb/article.aspx?id=10104

"Hawks have been known to jump out of 4th and 5th gear when racing. This can be quite disconcerting so the best way to fix that is to replace the stock detent spring with a heavier one. Factory Pro makes a shift kit which seems to work very well"

[SMF]

I wouldn't recommend the pilot powers in the rain. I thought they were a great idea, ran them in the rain and crashed... buy rain tires. pilot powers at loudon in the rain are a serious exercise in control. it's the only time i've had a hawk sliding both ends around a track...

and the main problem I have is upshifting from 4-5. it likes to get stuck in the gear and I have to use the clutch to upshift (damn annoying and much slower than clutchless)

[Doc]

I had that same problem (the shifting thing)

Hence the shift kit.

This Pilot Power stuff is bugging me, maybe I can upgrade em.

[Doc]

Latest update

1. Make sure the bike runs (Done)
2. Rewire stuff (mostly done)
3. Reduce weight
4. Change Suspension to an F4i front, with f4i rim and wave rotors($650 done) and a Upgrade the rear (Ohlins) DONE!
5. Get a baseline suspension setup (static Sag)
6. Tune up
clean/sync carbs (Done)
uni filters ($24)
New brake fluid ($4)
water wetter ($11)
plugs (free)
Oil change (done)
Oil filter (free)
7. Tires... Got some Michelin Pilot Powers ($256) and some rains on spare rims.
8. Woodcraft Rearsets (around $200) Done!
9. 520 chain and sprockets (Done)
10. Factory pro spring and detent arm with Heavy duty clutch springs(done)
11. Some kind of Tach/Temp guage (Veypor gauges?)
12. RC30 Race tail and Aluminum subframe (DONE!)
13. Tighten everything up and safety wire appropriate parts.

Some Misc/maybe Items
Lighter battery, DONE!
Radiator hoses
Gp shifting? Not gonna do it yet.
Paint? Was blue, going RED (with a blue suit, not gonna match but oh well)
Get the trailer ready....
Needs new tires, Inspection, Registration, bearings lubed...