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    jetting input?

    Ok, so i've been reading the previous posts and some of the archives over on HAWK GT but haven't found an answer to my question. You know that keeper at the bottom of the slide that holds the needle in place? (it has a phillips female head on top) Well I was changing my jets today (trying to get my bike dialed in after a top end rebuild) and i noticed that the keeper actually completely covers one of the holes in the bottom of the slide and partially covers the other.

    Now my initial reaction is that this is probably ok since it must've been this way stock. I've rotated the retaining piece and it looks like there is no position where both holes don't have the retainer over at least one of them. Then I think...what is the use of drilling these wider (which I have done) if one is covered and the other is partially covered in the first place.

    Anyway...she runs much better with a 150 rear and 152.5 front with pod filters and a wide open exhaust. But there were still stumbles when I took it out on shake out cruise #2 today (shake out cruise #1 was yesterday with the same setup but with 144's. she would pull then flatten...pull then flatten).

    Basically i'm just using the 150 and 152.5 because that's all i could get on sunday as most shops are closed where i'm at. I'm planning to try out a 162/165 combo but seeing this keeper got me wondering if i'm suppose to do any modifications to it.

    Thanks for any input.

    Chris

    #2
    I am in the same boat as you, have you tried the 162/165 yet? if so how did it go?
    -NEVER LET YOUR FEARS STAND IN THE WAY OF YOUR DREAMS-
    Most of the pics I have of my Hawk/Mods: http://gallery.me.com/stevenhowell

    "Arseing about with my bikes will end in tears." -Keno04

    "Dress for the slide, not the ride" - ParcNHawk

    Comment


      #3
      I to re-jetted yesterday and used this link as a basis for how I jetted my carbs:

      http://www.mahonkin.com/~milktree/hawk/carb-tuning.html

      Seems kinda funny that all I really needed was to get a couple of new needles and a 165 and 162 main and did not need the whole kit.

      This was a scary thing for me to do at first... don't wanna screw up the lungs of the bike... but afterwards I was suprized on how easy it was to make the changes.

      On the list above I went with the last version of carb tuning that Hord had suggested. Seems to easy....

      All I changed was the needles, which I had to set to the 2nd clip from the top cause the 3rd position I could not get the holder back on? (do I need to mod it to get the 3rd position to work?) and I changed the main jets and strechted the springs out to 8". I still need to drill out the caps and adjust the idlers.

      Don't know if it works yet due to the bike still apart and we just got 4" of fresh powder this morning.... so it will be awhile before I can take aride.

      Rob
      Rob
      88 Street Hawk
      F2 tank, Aztec8 dual 4", Duc seat and CF cowl, Stage 3 jet, Uni Pods, M4 stubby, SV650 clips, controls & fuel pump, GSXR front mc and CFB1000 front caliper, F3 forks upper and internals, Penske 8983, Gino RCR, rear jump plates & R6 pegs and Vapor gauge...
      04 CRF50 pit bike and stunt runner...
      91 Suzuki GSF400 Bandit (she's a runner now...)

      Comment


        #4
        Originally Posted by Hawk Jr
        All I changed was the needles, which I had to set to the 2nd clip from the top cause the 3rd position I could not get the holder back on? (do I need to mod it to get the 3rd position to work?)
        I had to take the dremel to the holders on mine in order to get them to go back on.

        Comment


          #5
          OK... I was wondering if I should do that. I guess I will remove them and have a small grinding fest.

          Rob
          Rob
          88 Street Hawk
          F2 tank, Aztec8 dual 4", Duc seat and CF cowl, Stage 3 jet, Uni Pods, M4 stubby, SV650 clips, controls & fuel pump, GSXR front mc and CFB1000 front caliper, F3 forks upper and internals, Penske 8983, Gino RCR, rear jump plates & R6 pegs and Vapor gauge...
          04 CRF50 pit bike and stunt runner...
          91 Suzuki GSF400 Bandit (she's a runner now...)

          Comment


            #6
            Originally Posted by Hawk Jr
            I still need to drill out the caps and adjust the idlers.
            Whoah! First, you gotta drill those out and make the changes! On mine, the front was two turns out and the back was three and a half turns out. (wonder why I was running funny)

            Second. Jumping from 150 to 165 is a MASSIVE change! Thats changing too much.

            Third, Yes, you MUST to modify the plastic needle carriers to be able to set the needle correctly.

            Lasty, Pay attention to elevation. Elevation makes a huge difference on what your jetting settings will be.

            dp
            "A Café Racer will ride all night through a fog storm in freeway traffic to put himself into what somebody told him was the ugliest and tightest decreasing-radius turn since Genghis Khan invented the corkscrew." - Hunter S. Thompson
            www.c a n y o n c h a s e r s . n e t

            Comment


              #7
              I forgot to mention. I had a helluva time getting my jetting figured out because the choke valves had gummed up and were sticking. Carefully remove the choke valves and thoroughly clean them to make sure they are not messing with your settings.

              If they are even a little dirty, enough to prevent them from closing all the way, the bike will not run right.

              dp
              "A Café Racer will ride all night through a fog storm in freeway traffic to put himself into what somebody told him was the ugliest and tightest decreasing-radius turn since Genghis Khan invented the corkscrew." - Hunter S. Thompson
              www.c a n y o n c h a s e r s . n e t

              Comment


                #8
                here is a tip on the choke needles......if they do not come out with a little tug, DO NOT PULL VERY HARD! I broke mine and had a hell of a time getting it out. On the other side though, I found that putting the carbs on there side and filling the choke with WD40 and letting it sit for two days works miracles.
                -NEVER LET YOUR FEARS STAND IN THE WAY OF YOUR DREAMS-
                Most of the pics I have of my Hawk/Mods: http://gallery.me.com/stevenhowell

                "Arseing about with my bikes will end in tears." -Keno04

                "Dress for the slide, not the ride" - ParcNHawk

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yeah....I realized I hadn't put in my initial post that I'm running the K&N kit (same as Dynojet I'm told by Mr. Hord). Hord said that the needle retainer should be in there, that the springs should be stock length and that the slides should be drilled. I followed the instructions in my kit to the letter. He also mentioned that the DJ kits are a pain compared to the Factory ones. Oh yeah...my clip is in the middle of my needle.

                  i haven't found the 162 around. The latest things i've done is put in 165's on front and rear. I then adjusted my floats to spec and she'd only run with the choke pulled all they way out (the rear cyl. carb had no fuel at all after this adjustment).

                  I put both floats at 7mm (measuring with a vernier caliper) and she started and idled the best so far (I'm running stock slow jets...not as much choke to start but it was warmer here in norcal today). Off the line she still stumbles a little but nowhere near what she was doing.

                  I just put on a Vapor unit and the engine temp wasn't even giving me a bar even though I warmed her for a good 10mins or so. The highest temp recorded was like 139F or something like that which seems a bit low but i've gotta find out what the optimal is for the HAWK (I also just installed it so I'm not sure if it's working right). I've also got a v45 radiator on it which is larger then stock so..?...i haven't synched the carbs. My point being is that I've got all kinds of variables going on at the moment so I'll post a follow-up as a I figure things out.

                  I'm planning on using this as a gudeline from now on....

                  http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtun.html

                  may drop the floats a hair more today.....first i gotta do some riding throuout the powerband and see how she responds.

                  good luck
                  -c

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Ok...I'm an idiot. I got this bike around fall last year with no front end and it had a hole in the crankcase. I had a motor already and set about rebuilding the top end....etc. Well I cleaned the carbs like...last spring and the project got put on hold for a bit. Well I pulled my slow jets (as many of my syptoms point to this area of throttle response) and bingo....i couldn't see cleanly through them. I blew them out good and have put them back in. WAYY better. I still have some stumbles which makes me think there's some gunk stuck to the side of one of the slow jets which didn't come out when I blew air through it. I'm basically just going to get a couple new ones and be done with it.

                    No big mystery after all. Just some good ole fashion contaminant..

                    Chris

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Chris,

                      have you cleaned your choke valves yet?

                      And are you using KN/Dynojet jets or Factory Jets?

                      dp
                      "A Café Racer will ride all night through a fog storm in freeway traffic to put himself into what somebody told him was the ugliest and tightest decreasing-radius turn since Genghis Khan invented the corkscrew." - Hunter S. Thompson
                      www.c a n y o n c h a s e r s . n e t

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I am using Factory Jet 3, pod's and a full M4 exhaust.
                        Rob
                        88 Street Hawk
                        F2 tank, Aztec8 dual 4", Duc seat and CF cowl, Stage 3 jet, Uni Pods, M4 stubby, SV650 clips, controls & fuel pump, GSXR front mc and CFB1000 front caliper, F3 forks upper and internals, Penske 8983, Gino RCR, rear jump plates & R6 pegs and Vapor gauge...
                        04 CRF50 pit bike and stunt runner...
                        91 Suzuki GSF400 Bandit (she's a runner now...)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I just ultrasonically cleaned my carbs and made note of what jets i have from the previous owner. the bike was being ridden at around 1000 ft. above sea level (atlanta) and i'm going to be riding around 0-several hundred ft. above sea level (nyc).
                          exhaust=supertrapp, uni-pods, and 162/168 jets.

                          should i mess with my jetting or just leave it.
                          like i've said before, i'm yet to even start my bike as it's in it's assembly stage here.

                          ultrasonic cleaning=practically brand new carbs... look!
                          ...and
                          ride Red.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            bump? seems many of you have jets in the 140's range.
                            i have stage 3, full supertrapp, and pod filters. am i set up well or not with 162/168
                            ride Red.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              with almost all there is left to do is put some gas in and start the thing (or try to, anyway) i'm still wondering what main jet config. will work best.
                              right now it's 162/168...

                              little help, please?
                              ride Red.

                              Comment

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