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Improving on the clutch design

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  • Improving on the clutch design

    After the wise advise of simply changing my oil to Rotela T5 10w30 my clutch is working better, but still not perfect.

    So, making the best of the time I spent taking everything apart several times, I think I understand how it all works, I've been thinking about possible ways to improve a couple things.
    Stating the obvious, seems to me that the amount of space created when disengaging the clutch is just a little tight. Has anyone thought about milling the bottom of the pressure plate and making a longer "push pin"? There is lip that cold come off the pressure plate and a longer " Pin" would allow the plate to be pushed that xtra little bit
    Also, what about enlarging those 4 holes on the clutch center to allow more oil to be whipping around ?
    Last edited by 89redgt; 1 Week Ago.

  • #2
    thoughts

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    • #3
      Given that I've never, like not once, had a clutch issue beyond needing replacement, improvements are not things I've pondered. Once upon a time there was thought placed into adding a slipper clutch...but it never went anywhere.

      WW
      Hawk GT - skookum as frig
      WW#Store

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      • #4
        My thought: Keep looking for your real problem. While clutch design has improved over the years, the stock Hawk clutch is not problematic.

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        • #5
          One thing to take a close look at while you have the clutch apart is to inspect the basket for grooves on the sides. If they are there then your steels might be sticking in place... That usually happens on pretty high mile engines though.
          88 Blue Hawk GT - Under construction
          89 Red Hawk GT - Still on the shelf and in crates
          2000 DR650 (Thumper)

          2002 DL1000 V-Strom

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          • #6
            Murphy's Law applies.

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            • #7
              Originally Posted by behindthetimes View Post
              Murphy's Law applies.
              ya.. was thinking that too. Ive had plenty a'hawk wo any problems. Just cant figure on why this one is different

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              • #8
                Well.....maybe there's a bearing going somewhere.....the hazy shifting may be shifter related.....neutral can be hard to find with bad oil....perhaps it's not the clutch pack? Time for an X-mas donation to the Keeper of the Nomenclature.Maybe he'll pipe up....JD will have some input.

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                • #9
                  Is the Rotella T5 a full Syn oil? Not sure that's good.

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                  • #10
                    Just be sure you recognize what expected behavior is, especially in the cold. Donít set expectations based on what you want to happen, just what really happens. Thatís hard to do if you donít have anything to compare.

                    The time and money Iíve spent trying to make good better... sometimes it even blows up in my face.

                    Good luck!
                    1988 Gray HawkGT (the fast model), 2015 FZ09, 1985 XT 600, 197x TZ 250 Champion framer.

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                    • #11
                      I don't see how changing the pin length would improve things, the external arm is only gonna move it so far inside. The arm is what needs changing. But I'd have to study it. With good plates and a little stiffer springs, the clutch is pretty bulletproof in ordinary use. Even racing, they hold up well. The baskets tend to shed fingers, that's where the real problem is.
                      J.D. Hord
                      Keeper of Engine Nomenclature, 9th Order

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                      • #12
                        There was a guy making billet clutch baskets for XR/FT500s a while back, which I thought would cross over to the Hawk - I contacted him about it, but he never got back to me.

                        I agree with all of the above sentiments, the only improvement I can think of is hardening the basket teeth or adding and insert that would prevent the fretting common on higher mileage bikes. It is probably far easier and cheaper to replace parts than to engineer something to solve this small problem though.

                        I know that Hawk parts are getting scarce, but does the NT700V clutch cross over? I would expect it to...

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                        • #13
                          https://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemp...0a39628/clutch

                          https://www.ebay.com/i/253078056763?...D1387215602587

                          https://m.ebay.com/itm/Clutch-Basket....c100694.m4598
                          "Hawk Porn" http://picasaweb.google.com/11124379...eat=directlink 1990 NT650-Penske 8981, Race-tech Springs & Gold Valves, Steve Lenac six-piston caliper & EBC rotor,SS Brake lines Ft / Rear lines through SSA ,VFR brake lever, F2 front wheel, F-120/70 R-160/60 Dunlop Roadsmart, Full-Supertrapp Exhaust, Stage 1 Jet kit, K&N Filter, Corbin Seat, Pro-Tec Clip-On's/ Past Rides...1986 VFR700F2 Interceptor / 1979 Yamaha Rd400 Daytona Special

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                          • #14
                            22100-MFF-D00 for the NT700V

                            22100-MS6-920 for the Hawk
                            Gino
                            Chain Roller

                            NEVER UNDERESTIMATE THE PREDICTABILITY OF STUPIDITY

                            2012 CCS LRRS ULSB Champion
                            2012 CCS LRRS P89 Champion
                            2008 CCS ULSB National Champion
                            LRRS HAWK GT Racer CCS Expert #929
                            ECK RACING

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                            • #15
                              Originally Posted by Hordpower View Post
                              I don't see how changing the pin length would improve things, the external arm is only gonna move it so far inside. The arm is what needs changing. But I'd have to study it. With good plates and a little stiffer springs, the clutch is pretty bulletproof in ordinary use. Even racing, they hold up well. The baskets tend to shed fingers, that's where the real problem is.

                              Thanks for the reply. I agree that the longer pin won't work, to mimic that, I placed a 2.5mm spacer behind the bearing to see if bringing it closer to the pin would make any difference and it seems that this small amount caused the bearing to make contact with the pin before even squeezing the clutch lever and if I were able to mill the bottom of pressure plate to give it more space to move in the basket, I think the lifter plate would come really close to the 27mm nut below it. The only thing that I can think of is using thinner steel plates, but that won't hold up for any period, so, I guess its time to leave well enough alone

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