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Fuel pump relay bypass switch

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    Fuel pump relay bypass switch

    The plan is to fit a switch to bypass the fuel pump relay, my question is, can I use this switch while the relay is still plugged in, as all the information on this site shows the plug to the relay disconnected while bypassing the this relay. Thanks Ian

    #2
    Putting in a momentary normally open pushbutton in parallel with the relay is the way to do it. Prime on demand and zero interference otherwise. I sneak this onto every Hawk I work on.

    To keep stock wiring unmolested, I depin the plug then wrap the primer button wires around the base of the pins and the slide them back in. Careful not to change the pin order and only use the black wires (1 has a blue stripe.)

    If you were looking for a support group you're barking up the wrong tree. This place is fulla enablers dude. - Shooter77us

    The bitterness of low quality lingers long after the thrill of a low price has gone. - RacerX450

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      #3
      Thanks for that ParcNHawk, that's great

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        #4
        I had a really good think were to mount the switch, this is what I came up with, in the tool box area. has anyone got a better location?, let me know

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          #5
          You loose the tool pouch area. If you don't carry tools, I guess it doesn't matter. If you want prime on demand (say after sitting all winter), why necessitate seat removal? Why not zip-tie it to the front of the front of subframe or attach it to the front of the subframe with some VHB tape?

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            #6
            FWIW the pump will prime as soon as you crank the bike. It does not take long because the carbs are actually around the same height as the bottom of the tank. The whole purpose of the pump is to empty the tank, not provide pressure so if you want your carbs to be primed, just have more than half a tank of gas in the bike...
            88 Blue Hawk GT - Under construction
            89 Fairing Hawk GT - Still on the shelf and in crates
            90 Hawk GT (color as to yet be determined) - Still on the shelf in crates
            2000 DR650 (Thumper)

            2002 DL1000 V-Strom

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              #7
              Originally Posted by rpcraft View Post
              FWIW the pump will prime as soon as you crank the bike. It does not take long because the carbs are actually around the same height as the bottom of the tank. The whole purpose of the pump is to empty the tank, not provide pressure so if you want your carbs to be primed, just have more than half a tank of gas in the bike...
              i can't agree with this somehow.

              "It's only getting worse."


              MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

              Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.

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                #8
                You don't have to agree but I have never had to prime the carbs on two hawks without an electric pumps so feel free to prove wrong what I already have proven correct...
                88 Blue Hawk GT - Under construction
                89 Fairing Hawk GT - Still on the shelf and in crates
                90 Hawk GT (color as to yet be determined) - Still on the shelf in crates
                2000 DR650 (Thumper)

                2002 DL1000 V-Strom

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                  #9
                  I threw the switch in the gap at the back of the battery.

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                    #10
                    Thanks for the replies, BBBROS I will have a look behind the battery, one of the bikes I have has a problem, it starts on one cylinder and eventually runs on both with no problem, this has been going on for a while now, over a year, I believe it is either the fuel pump which I have a new one ready to fit or the float needles are sticking, this is the reason for the prime switch. the fuel pump is not going to get fitted anytime soon.

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                      #11
                      If you were having a problem with the fuel pump, it would effect both carbs. Fuel pump has a single out to a T fitting to each of the two carbs, then I'd say the problem is in your lines or your carbs, not the pump.
                      '89 Hawk a.k.a. The RallyHawk (my son's now!) | '89 Hawk a.k.a. The Deuce | Spare Parts/Dented Learner Bike | '13 Tacoma | '69 Falcon (currently getting reassembled! )

                      I've spent most of my money on women, beer, cars and motorcycles. The rest of it I just wasted.

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                        #12
                        Hi 69Falcon, I had the new fuel pump on today, made no difference, the carbs well have to come off.

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                          #13
                          Hi 69Falcon, just cleaned the pilot jets, it is a lot better now, I have not been out on it yet, thanks for that, Ian

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                            #14
                            Excellent!
                            '89 Hawk a.k.a. The RallyHawk (my son's now!) | '89 Hawk a.k.a. The Deuce | Spare Parts/Dented Learner Bike | '13 Tacoma | '69 Falcon (currently getting reassembled! )

                            I've spent most of my money on women, beer, cars and motorcycles. The rest of it I just wasted.

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                              #15
                              I mounted my switch just behind the fuel tap. Its easy to use and only needs short wires form the relay.

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