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    Rookie carb cable removal question...

    So, as I was saying, seems like a month ago now... I am finally going to install the Factory Stage 1 Jet Kit on the '88. It is box stock at this time and oddly enough, the rubber manifold clamps seemed as if someone had been there previously as they were not as tight as I would have expected.

    No matter, the carbs are off and I am asking how to go about removing the throttle cables so as not to disturb the adjustment, or can that be done...?

    Do I remove the plate with the two Phillips head screws (one large, one small) that hold them at their set distance from the throttle shaft pulley and with slack, just pull them out of the pulley or does that pulley come off as well..? There is a spring back behind there that kinda concerns me if it were to come undone.

    Oh and while we're at it... What is the preferred carb reinstallation method...? With the rubber boots on the engine or on the carbs...?

    Thanks for putting up with the rookie questions.

    Best
    Rob



    Just ride it...

    2013 FLHTC, A Bunch of Guzzis...'88 Hawk GT, '89 Transalp, '99 SV 650, '84 RZ 350 KR, '72 Triumph T100 R, '71 Dalesman Trials etc...

    #2
    Keep the rubber boots on the engine, make sure the clamps are assembled correctly and open, clean and lube, put the carbs on with sligth pressure and a twisting motion - it has been described in earlier posts.
    I always just remove the lock nuts and take the cables off the plate - it is much easier and you know after reassembly that you have adjusted the right play. I found it more difficult to remove the two JIS screws (note the small dot near the recess) and trying to move the plate and cables around... leave the pulley alone, but twist it to remove the cables as necessary, same goes when reinstalling.

    Comment


      #3
      i always remove the cables from the holder and have seen too many mangled screwheads. readjusting is no problem and easiest with carbs b4 installation while they're in your hands.
      Last edited by squirrelman; 07-30-2019, 07:07 PM.
      "It's only getting worse."


      MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

      Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.

      Comment


        #4
        Oh for goodness sake... Can nothing be cut and dried... ?

        Yet another question for ya.

        I had mentioned that the clamps seemed to not be too tight making me think that a previous owner had been in there, sure enough the pilot screw caps have been pulled and had set the screws at 3 turns out, I set them 2-1/2 turns out per the Dyno Jet recommendations.

        Next, I drilled the slide holes, installed the DJ 136 Mains, and then moved on to setting the DJ needle into the slide...

        Well, the instructions call for setting the clip at the fourth groove down from the top, check.

        Next assemble " Using all stock spacers" There is the rub. The Stock (I think) 6 EE needle has this thick washer thingy on the end and does not appear to be removable...

        So now what...? Just use the clip and DJ Washer on top or...?


        Ok, two questions. The DJ instructions state that you May need to cut off the #1 groove to give clearance in the needle retainer. Has anyone here experienced the need to do that..?

        Thanks much,
        Rob







        Just ride it...

        2013 FLHTC, A Bunch of Guzzis...'88 Hawk GT, '89 Transalp, '99 SV 650, '84 RZ 350 KR, '72 Triumph T100 R, '71 Dalesman Trials etc...

        Comment


          #5
          Ya, I have had to cut them short most of the time i install them. Just use a set of snippers and clip it.
          Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

          Comment


            #6
            There is a reason why the Factory Pro kits are more in favour... anyways, it is straight forward, if it fits without excessive force it is OK... you have the aligning plane wrong in your picture, it rests at the bottom... read and visualise, it is just as difficult to read forum answers as it is instructions delivered with the kit...

            Comment


              #7
              And no. Dont use the top of the stock needle.
              Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally Posted by 6 View Post
                Ya, I have had to cut them short most of the time i install them. Just use a set of snippers and clip it.
                10-4 and on the top of the stock needle. That does not seem to be removable anyway.

                Oh, I meant to include the fact that the Main Jets found in the carbs were 132 Front and 138 Rear... is that common...? ? ?



                Originally Posted by JanM View Post
                ... you have the aligning plane wrong in your picture, it rests at the bottom... read and visualise, it is just as difficult to read forum answers as it is instructions delivered with the kit...
                Jan,
                You're gonna have to 'spain that. What aligning plane...?

                Thanks,
                rad





                Just ride it...

                2013 FLHTC, A Bunch of Guzzis...'88 Hawk GT, '89 Transalp, '99 SV 650, '84 RZ 350 KR, '72 Triumph T100 R, '71 Dalesman Trials etc...

                Comment


                  #9
                  Lots of different setups there should be something for Dynojets as well. Many kits use same size front and rear, several users end up with staggered sizes front and rear, even opposite of original. It is your specific motorcycle and its setup that is impotant to you. Whatever works is right...

                  By aligning plane, the two red lines should be in the same plane as this is where the needle sits:

                  ZVLoNv.jpg

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally Posted by JanM View Post
                    Lots of different setups there should be something for Dynojets as well. Many kits use same size front and rear, several users end up with staggered sizes front and rear, even opposite of original. It is your specific motorcycle and its setup that is impotant to you. Whatever works is right...

                    By aligning plane, the two red lines should be in the same plane as this is where the needle sits:
                    Ahh, copy all regarding different size mains, just caught me off guard. There must have been a reason once upon a time with this one.

                    And the aligning thing, I was not trying to show that the plane was the same or actually align the two needles that way, just to illustrate the thick washer that is on the stocker and whether I should try to ease that off the needle to use it. I get ya now. I'm a little slow sometimes... lol

                    Thanks,
                    rad




                    Just ride it...

                    2013 FLHTC, A Bunch of Guzzis...'88 Hawk GT, '89 Transalp, '99 SV 650, '84 RZ 350 KR, '72 Triumph T100 R, '71 Dalesman Trials etc...

                    Comment


                      #11
                      And as 6 said - do not use the top of the stock needle with your Dynojet kit (or anything else)...

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Lol ... always remove the plate.

                        What it takes is the proper size JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) bit and either a impact hammer driver ( you couldn't work on a motorcycle in the 70s without one)

                        51Lgq16i3YL._AC_SY400_.jpg

                        or the home grown model a proper JIS screwdriver a small set of vice grips and a small hammer.

                        Firmly grab the shaft of the driver with the vice grips and with the carbs on their side * some paddling below them, put the bit in the screw and apply as much downward and rotational force as possible without jumping out of the screw.

                        Now a firm whack on the end of the screwdriver and the screw will break free. Break them both and then go about removing them. Note: i put mine back where they live for safe keeping, but a ziploc with some blue tape and a marker works too. As long as you don't misplace it

                        Different strokes different folks.

                        Of course i always check and adjust the cables if necessary ( usually fine if they were adjusted properly before)

                        and the check for the throttle to
                        snap closed at all front wheel locations. Center right and left locks.
                        Last edited by SPA; 07-30-2019, 06:54 PM.
                        "Hawk Porn" http://picasaweb.google.com/11124379...eat=directlink 1990 NT650-Penske 8981, Race-tech Springs & Gold Valves, Steve Lenac six-piston caliper & EBC rotor,SS Brake lines Ft / Rear lines through SSA ,VFR brake lever, F2 front wheel, F-120/70 R-160/60 Dunlop Roadsmart, Full-Supertrapp Exhaust, Stage 1 Jet kit, K&N Filter, Corbin Seat, Pro-Tec Clip-On's/ Past Rides...1986 VFR700F2 Interceptor / 1979 Yamaha Rd400 Daytona Special

                        Comment


                          #13
                          golly, spa, i wouldn't want to use hammer force against the side of a carb to employ the impact driver.

                          properly installed, the needle should wiggle a bit, and it's often necessary to trim the small center locating tit on the needle retainer to achieve it.
                          Last edited by squirrelman; 07-30-2019, 09:16 PM.
                          "It's only getting worse."


                          MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

                          Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally Posted by squirrelman View Post
                            golly, spa, i wouldn't want to use hammer force against the side of a carb to employ the impact driver.
                            Its not like beating on them ... its SOP for stuck screws.

                            Its a brisk whack with a small hammer.

                            I don't own a impact driver, I'm using the home school method.
                            Last edited by SPA; 07-30-2019, 07:23 PM.
                            "Hawk Porn" http://picasaweb.google.com/11124379...eat=directlink 1990 NT650-Penske 8981, Race-tech Springs & Gold Valves, Steve Lenac six-piston caliper & EBC rotor,SS Brake lines Ft / Rear lines through SSA ,VFR brake lever, F2 front wheel, F-120/70 R-160/60 Dunlop Roadsmart, Full-Supertrapp Exhaust, Stage 1 Jet kit, K&N Filter, Corbin Seat, Pro-Tec Clip-On's/ Past Rides...1986 VFR700F2 Interceptor / 1979 Yamaha Rd400 Daytona Special

                            Comment


                              #15
                              SOP-breakdown1.png
                              "Hawk Porn" http://picasaweb.google.com/11124379...eat=directlink 1990 NT650-Penske 8981, Race-tech Springs & Gold Valves, Steve Lenac six-piston caliper & EBC rotor,SS Brake lines Ft / Rear lines through SSA ,VFR brake lever, F2 front wheel, F-120/70 R-160/60 Dunlop Roadsmart, Full-Supertrapp Exhaust, Stage 1 Jet kit, K&N Filter, Corbin Seat, Pro-Tec Clip-On's/ Past Rides...1986 VFR700F2 Interceptor / 1979 Yamaha Rd400 Daytona Special

                              Comment

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