Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Clutch Diode

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    You can easily test a diode with a multimeter. It controls the ignition interlock system so the bike won't start or crank while in gear UNLESS you're squeezing the clutch lever.

    Convert to hydraulic clutch system ?? What do you imagine the advantage of that is ??
    Last edited by squirrelman; 04-30-2013, 02:30 PM.
    "It's only getting worse."


    MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

    Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.

    Comment


      #17
      As written by SPA himself........


      From the Hawk Manual :

      INSPECTION

      Check for continuity with an ohmmeter.
      Connect the positive probe to the (+) terminal and the negative probe to the (-) terminal of the diode.

      There should be continuity, then reverse the probes, there should be no continuity.


      Spa-

      An ohmmeter is a setting on a common mulitmeter and the meter must be set to the ohm (symbol: Ω)

      it measures the resistance and continuity (connection )

      The black prob is ( neg ) the red prob is (pos)

      A good Fluke meter can set you back a few bills but a home mecanics digital version can be found at auto parts stores or even Wallmart in the $25. and up range >http://www.walmart.com/search/search...0=e&wl1=g&wl2=[m]&wl3=19392777647&wl4=

      Try to buy one that uses standard aaa or AA or 9v batteries the button battery powered ones will kill you on the replacement cost...

      Auto/off is a good function as well ( saves you from killing batteries )

      Most continuity settings have a "Tone" or beep that sound continually when the circuit is closed (continuity )
      Penske 8983, 3.0 jet kit, GVE's, RT springs, mikuni pump/cust mount, lightened rotor, Aztec8 Duals, EB harness,RX2N, Lenac brake kit/cust. reasets, CRG mirrors/levers, Full ti M4, Fabi hugger, Gino's roller, Brents frame slider, BTTs res elim., WW torsion bar, Eric'c cf sidestand and res bracket, Bogans Sprocket cover, plus much more
      http://www.hawkgtforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17600

      I also do decals for our Hawks and Bros on the forum. I do stock colors or custom colors. I can also do about any design out there or custom design you wish for.
      link to the decals and pricing....
      http://www.hawkgtforum.com/forum/hon...ics-and-prices

      Comment


        #18
        From SPA also.....

        This is a great picture and diagram



        The starter relay (solenoid) has "line side " 12v pos from the battery The switched "load" 12v + side to the starter

        The solenoid " primary side " ( electro magnet ) gets a 12v pos from the starter button when pushed

        But it also relies on a ground ( neg ) from one of two sorces

        A) in Netural the netural light switch is providing ground to the starter solenoid

        B) the clutch switch will bypass the Netural switch and provide ground to the starter solenoid

        So not only does the solenoid wait for a 12v pos from the starter botton

        It also must one of the two ground/s paths (neg) to operate ...

        The diode allows electricity to travel in one direction but not the other ...
        Penske 8983, 3.0 jet kit, GVE's, RT springs, mikuni pump/cust mount, lightened rotor, Aztec8 Duals, EB harness,RX2N, Lenac brake kit/cust. reasets, CRG mirrors/levers, Full ti M4, Fabi hugger, Gino's roller, Brents frame slider, BTTs res elim., WW torsion bar, Eric'c cf sidestand and res bracket, Bogans Sprocket cover, plus much more
        http://www.hawkgtforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17600

        I also do decals for our Hawks and Bros on the forum. I do stock colors or custom colors. I can also do about any design out there or custom design you wish for.
        link to the decals and pricing....
        http://www.hawkgtforum.com/forum/hon...ics-and-prices

        Comment


          #19
          Originally Posted by 88Honda Hawk View Post


          Spa-

          An ohmmeter is a setting on a common mulitmeter and the meter must be set to the ohm (symbol: Ω)

          it measures the resistance and continuity (connection )

          The black prob is ( neg ) the red prob is (pos)

          A good Fluke meter can set you back a few bills but a home mecanics digital version can be found at auto parts stores or even Wallmart in the $25. and up range >http://www.walmart.com/search/search...0=e&wl1=g&wl2=[m]&wl3=19392777647&wl4=

          Try to buy one that uses standard aaa or AA or 9v batteries the button battery powered ones will kill you on the replacement cost...

          Auto/off is a good function as well ( saves you from killing batteries )

          Most continuity settings have a "Tone" or beep that sound continually when the circuit is closed (continuity )
          Testing a diode with an ohmmeter is a little dated. Most of today's DMMs have a diode drop test with the symbol of a diode at that position. typically it will show ~2.65 volts with leads not connected to anything, if you short the leads it will go to 0 volts. when testing a diode it should show full voltage going one way, swap leads and it should show about .5volts. that would be a diode reading good. if it shows full voltage measured both ways (swapping + and - leads) the diode is open, if it shows .5 volts both ways it is shorted. Hope that helps anyone wanting to check any diode or wondering what that thing on your meter is for. my 2
          1988 Gray HawkGT (the fast model), 2015 FZ09, 1985 XT 600, 197x TZ 250 Champion framer.

          Comment


            #20
            Originally Posted by Shern View Post
            Can the clutch diode have anything to do with my main fuse blowing as soon as everything is connected on the bike?
            As stated above by that Spa guy ...

            The starter solenoid "waits for one of two grounds to be avaible"

            Even when the starter switch is pushed (12v pos) the solenoid needs the Netural switch or clutch switch (closed) to provide the ground path to allow it operate

            The diode only allows electricity to travel in one direction which in this case prevents the Netural light from illuminating when the clutch is pulled in

            @ Shern, ya never called me ?

            I believe you've got a short in one of three possible areas / (components )

            And that has taken out (burned ) your diode as a result

            Number one suspect ... is the starter solenoid / main fuse

            Close on its heels are the starter button which ties into the headlight circuit

            Thus the high low dimmer switch and Ing switch should all be checked as well

            You can't just throw parts at a problem like this... (unless you find the fault first ) you'll just burn up new parts fuses diodes and whatnot ..

            Best to isolate by disconnecting said components and testing

            This requires a basic knowledge of electricity and the proper uses of a Multi meter and a ability to read a wiring schematic


            I'm not going to try to walk you through it on a keyboard ...

            But with a little work ... One "could be" walked through the troubleshoot step by step...

            If you want to know what I would do to find the problem have your credit card handy when you call !

            Lol.. but .. Really it hurts me to have to read when a member/s are poking around the electrics instead of taking a planed attack to find a problem.

            It's an electrical "system" and it needs to be checked as such !

            Aloha Spa
            Last edited by SPA; 04-30-2013, 07:45 PM.
            "Hawk Porn" http://picasaweb.google.com/11124379...eat=directlink 1990 NT650-Penske 8981, Race-tech Springs & Gold Valves, Steve Lenac six-piston caliper & EBC rotor,SS Brake lines Ft / Rear lines through SSA ,VFR brake lever, F2 front wheel, F-120/70 R-160/60 Dunlop Roadsmart, Full-Supertrapp Exhaust, Stage 1 Jet kit, K&N Filter, Corbin Seat, Pro-Tec Clip-On's/ Past Rides...1986 VFR700F2 Interceptor / 1979 Yamaha Rd400 Daytona Special

            Comment


              #21
              +1
              1988 Gray HawkGT (the fast model), 2015 FZ09, 1985 XT 600, 197x TZ 250 Champion framer.

              Comment


                #22
                Also, I recently had an episode where both my clutch switch and neutral switch quit at the same time. Unknowing the situation, I checked the clutch switch and neutral switch for cintinuity, etc. In the end I found the clutch diode had slightly came apart. It was still together and contacts were touching, but had maybe a 1/8" gap from being tight together. I pushed it back together and both the clutch switch and neutral switch started working correctly. That goes to show that they all do work together.
                Penske 8983, 3.0 jet kit, GVE's, RT springs, mikuni pump/cust mount, lightened rotor, Aztec8 Duals, EB harness,RX2N, Lenac brake kit/cust. reasets, CRG mirrors/levers, Full ti M4, Fabi hugger, Gino's roller, Brents frame slider, BTTs res elim., WW torsion bar, Eric'c cf sidestand and res bracket, Bogans Sprocket cover, plus much more
                http://www.hawkgtforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17600

                I also do decals for our Hawks and Bros on the forum. I do stock colors or custom colors. I can also do about any design out there or custom design you wish for.
                link to the decals and pricing....
                http://www.hawkgtforum.com/forum/hon...ics-and-prices

                Comment

                Working...
                X