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  • 88Honda Hawk
    replied
    Also, I recently had an episode where both my clutch switch and neutral switch quit at the same time. Unknowing the situation, I checked the clutch switch and neutral switch for cintinuity, etc. In the end I found the clutch diode had slightly came apart. It was still together and contacts were touching, but had maybe a 1/8" gap from being tight together. I pushed it back together and both the clutch switch and neutral switch started working correctly. That goes to show that they all do work together.

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  • F14
    replied
    +1

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  • SPA
    replied
    Originally Posted by Shern View Post
    Can the clutch diode have anything to do with my main fuse blowing as soon as everything is connected on the bike?
    As stated above by that Spa guy ...

    The starter solenoid "waits for one of two grounds to be avaible"

    Even when the starter switch is pushed (12v pos) the solenoid needs the Netural switch or clutch switch (closed) to provide the ground path to allow it operate

    The diode only allows electricity to travel in one direction which in this case prevents the Netural light from illuminating when the clutch is pulled in

    @ Shern, ya never called me ?

    I believe you've got a short in one of three possible areas / (components )

    And that has taken out (burned ) your diode as a result

    Number one suspect ... is the starter solenoid / main fuse

    Close on its heels are the starter button which ties into the headlight circuit

    Thus the high low dimmer switch and Ing switch should all be checked as well

    You can't just throw parts at a problem like this... (unless you find the fault first ) you'll just burn up new parts fuses diodes and whatnot ..

    Best to isolate by disconnecting said components and testing

    This requires a basic knowledge of electricity and the proper uses of a Multi meter and a ability to read a wiring schematic


    I'm not going to try to walk you through it on a keyboard ...

    But with a little work ... One "could be" walked through the troubleshoot step by step...

    If you want to know what I would do to find the problem have your credit card handy when you call !

    Lol.. but .. Really it hurts me to have to read when a member/s are poking around the electrics instead of taking a planed attack to find a problem.

    It's an electrical "system" and it needs to be checked as such !

    Aloha Spa
    Last edited by SPA; 04-30-2013, 07:45 PM.

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  • F14
    replied
    Originally Posted by 88Honda Hawk View Post


    Spa-

    An ohmmeter is a setting on a common mulitmeter and the meter must be set to the ohm (symbol: Ω)

    it measures the resistance and continuity (connection )

    The black prob is ( neg ) the red prob is (pos)

    A good Fluke meter can set you back a few bills but a home mecanics digital version can be found at auto parts stores or even Wallmart in the $25. and up range >http://www.walmart.com/search/search...0=e&wl1=g&wl2=[m]&wl3=19392777647&wl4=

    Try to buy one that uses standard aaa or AA or 9v batteries the button battery powered ones will kill you on the replacement cost...

    Auto/off is a good function as well ( saves you from killing batteries )

    Most continuity settings have a "Tone" or beep that sound continually when the circuit is closed (continuity )
    Testing a diode with an ohmmeter is a little dated. Most of today's DMMs have a diode drop test with the symbol of a diode at that position. typically it will show ~2.65 volts with leads not connected to anything, if you short the leads it will go to 0 volts. when testing a diode it should show full voltage going one way, swap leads and it should show about .5volts. that would be a diode reading good. if it shows full voltage measured both ways (swapping + and - leads) the diode is open, if it shows .5 volts both ways it is shorted. Hope that helps anyone wanting to check any diode or wondering what that thing on your meter is for. my 2

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  • 88Honda Hawk
    replied
    From SPA also.....

    This is a great picture and diagram



    The starter relay (solenoid) has "line side " 12v pos from the battery The switched "load" 12v + side to the starter

    The solenoid " primary side " ( electro magnet ) gets a 12v pos from the starter button when pushed

    But it also relies on a ground ( neg ) from one of two sorces

    A) in Netural the netural light switch is providing ground to the starter solenoid

    B) the clutch switch will bypass the Netural switch and provide ground to the starter solenoid

    So not only does the solenoid wait for a 12v pos from the starter botton

    It also must one of the two ground/s paths (neg) to operate ...

    The diode allows electricity to travel in one direction but not the other ...

    Leave a comment:


  • 88Honda Hawk
    replied
    As written by SPA himself........


    From the Hawk Manual :

    INSPECTION

    Check for continuity with an ohmmeter.
    Connect the positive probe to the (+) terminal and the negative probe to the (-) terminal of the diode.

    There should be continuity, then reverse the probes, there should be no continuity.


    Spa-

    An ohmmeter is a setting on a common mulitmeter and the meter must be set to the ohm (symbol: Ω)

    it measures the resistance and continuity (connection )

    The black prob is ( neg ) the red prob is (pos)

    A good Fluke meter can set you back a few bills but a home mecanics digital version can be found at auto parts stores or even Wallmart in the $25. and up range >http://www.walmart.com/search/search...0=e&wl1=g&wl2=[m]&wl3=19392777647&wl4=

    Try to buy one that uses standard aaa or AA or 9v batteries the button battery powered ones will kill you on the replacement cost...

    Auto/off is a good function as well ( saves you from killing batteries )

    Most continuity settings have a "Tone" or beep that sound continually when the circuit is closed (continuity )

    Leave a comment:


  • squirrelman
    replied
    You can easily test a diode with a multimeter. It controls the ignition interlock system so the bike won't start or crank while in gear UNLESS you're squeezing the clutch lever.

    Convert to hydraulic clutch system ?? What do you imagine the advantage of that is ??
    Last edited by squirrelman; 04-30-2013, 02:30 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Shern
    replied
    Can the clutch diode have anything to do with my main fuse blowing as soon as everything is connected on the bike?

    Leave a comment:


  • Makenzie71
    replied
    hmmm...well I really can't say for certain because I've never really paid attention to it and I've always hacked my harnesses up for race-bikes. A google-search a while back mentioned it a lot in conjunction with the neutral light...so it's heard to say.

    Leave a comment:


  • kennie
    replied
    I don't think the neutral light has anything to do with the clutch lever. The neutral sensor is in the engine case, I believe. The clutch switch probably has more to do with being able to start the bike with the clutch in.

    Leave a comment:


  • Makenzie71
    replied
    Not sure if you can bypass it or not, but it's how the bike differentiates between neutral and "clutch"...if I recall propperly. Without it your nuetral light will come on everytime you pull the clutch lever.

    Leave a comment:


  • kennie
    replied
    Re: ok.... now that I'm not wheezing anymore...

    Originally Posted by XS-Hawk
    clutch question...
    you got that evoluzion... ? slave cylinder...
    how do you convert to a hydraulic clutch?
    The hydraulic clutch is actually for my Ducati, but you can probably convert to a Magura hydraulic clutch... the lever will fit 7/8" bars and the slave cylinder would mount with a custom bracket where the old cable attaches to the motor. I don't think it'll be too difficult - just costly.

    Leave a comment:


  • XS-Hawk
    replied
    ok.... now that I'm not wheezing anymore...

    clutch question...
    you got that evoluzion... ? slave cylinder...
    how do you convert to a hydraulic clutch?

    Leave a comment:


  • kennie
    replied
    Originally Posted by Machismo111
    But- But!! The clutch diode...and the...cause it...and it....and the thing....works....cause...

    *runs away crying*
    ROTFLMAO!

    Leave a comment:


  • Machismo111
    replied
    But- But!! The clutch diode...and the...cause it...and it....and the thing....works....cause...

    *runs away crying*

    Leave a comment:

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