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Rebuilt my 929rr forks—now preload adjuster won’t budge

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    Rebuilt my 929rr forks—now preload adjuster won’t budge

    Hey all,

    I rebuilt my 929 forks but after putting everything back together on my first fork I found that the preload adjuster no longer wants to budge at all.
    I’ve put the fork in a vise and unscrewed the fork cap and I can pull down the spring a bit to make sure it is seated correctly but I get the same result.

    #2
    jan M will have your answer.
    "It's only getting worse."


    MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

    Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.

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      #3
      After fiddling with the cartridge from the other fork, I think the fork cap wasn’t seated correctly. With the upgraded, stiffer, racetech spring it’s difficult as hell to pull it down hard enough to make sure so I ordered a $25 spring compressor tool. I think that would help.

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        #4
        sometimes with an aftermarket spring you need a different spacer.
        Brian - Richland, WA
        1991 Hawk GT
        1997 VFR

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          #5
          When changing fork springs just follow the Racetech or Traxxion instructions. If something doesn't feel right, it probably isn't... start over and check. Several things can be wrong.

          Follow the instructions...

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            #6
            Originally Posted by JanM View Post
            When changing fork springs just follow the Racetech or Traxxion instructions. If something doesn't feel right, it probably isn't... start over and check. Several things can be wrong.t

            Follow the instructions...
            ok I will. I’ve been following these instructions:
            https://cbrforum.com/forum/how-103/c...lation-120001/


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              #7
              929 and 954 are not the same internally and the way you deal with the fork cap is different. If you unscrewed the fork cap via the preload adjuster instead of the hex on the cap itself, you jammed the adjuster. I've seen it done. The way you do the 929's, you remove the snap ring on top of the preload adjuster, wind out and remove the adjuster along with the plastic thing with the 3 pins, then remove the fork cap. Reverse on install. Makes everything much easier.
              J.D. Hord
              Keeper of Engine Nomenclature, 9th Order

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                #8
                Thanks for the input. Funny enough, I didn’t have that plastic spine thing so I believe I have 954 forks. These were an eBay purchase long ago. Another peculiarity is that I only have rebound adjustment on the left fork leg, not the right. Does that sound weird or what?

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                  #9
                  Never mind—the adjuster was just ground down by the previous owner. I dremeled a slot into it so I could adjust it. Duh

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                    #10
                    Originally Posted by richeffect View Post
                    Never mind—the adjuster was just ground down by the previous owner. I dremeled a slot into it so I could adjust it. Duh
                    Nice... At least its fixed!!
                    Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

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                      #11
                      Originally Posted by 6 View Post

                      Nice... At least its fixed!!
                      Thanks well I'm still waiting for the spring compression tool to arrive so I can at least properly screw the fork cap on—but yeah I thought for a long time that my forks simply only had rebound adjustment on one side only

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                        #12
                        Update: DIY Fail. According to the instructions I was following, it said to place some blue loctite on the fork bolt, of which I did--until I realized I needed to remove it again. The damper would just spin. I put the spring and adjuster back on and tightened the fork tube up again (without oil) which applies pressure to the damper to see if I could just get it loose with my impact wrench but the damper would just still spin with the fork bolt. I gave up and just brought my forks (in pieces) to Nichols Sportbikes near my house (William rocks!), and he did it all for me for a cool $110.

                        WHAT A DIFFERENCE! The bike now carries much more speed through the corners with less lean angle--it's like a completely new bike but with the same engine . Time for a Hord motor now.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally Posted by richeffect View Post
                          Update: DIY Fail. According to the instructions I was following, it said to place some blue loctite on the fork bolt, of which I did--until I realized I needed to remove it again. The damper would just spin. I put the spring and adjuster back on and tightened the fork tube up again (without oil) which applies pressure to the damper to see if I could just get it loose with my impact wrench but the damper would just still spin with the fork bolt. I gave up and just brought my forks (in pieces) to Nichols Sportbikes near my house (William rocks!), and he did it all for me for a cool $110.

                          WHAT A DIFFERENCE! The bike now carries much more speed through the corners with less lean angle--it's like a completely new bike but with the same engine . Time for a Hord motor now.
                          That sucks, but glad you got it. Ive yet yo have one not come with an impact... But i always dread that step for that reason.
                          Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

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