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Chain adjustment problem after hub assembled

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  • Chain adjustment problem after hub assembled

    I have fitted new cush drive rubbers cleaned and lubed the cush unit splines and cleaned the swinging arm. Everything fits together no force needed, however when I fit the 46mm nut and torque it up to 120pounds the eccentric chain adjuster can't be moved.

    My first thought I must have done up the pinch bolt but nope that's loose. Remove axle nut and cush drive unit and the chain adjuster can be moved easily.

    I have read the workshop manual and according to the diagram I haven't missed any parts out. I adjusted chain then did up pinch bolt then torqued up the axle nut and everything seems straight the wheel spins but the adjuster is solid.

    Is there supposed to be a spacer between the cush drive unit and the eccentric hub. Worried I might be crushing the wheel bearings.

  • #2
    This is the best diagram I can find

    I don't seem to have anything missing


    • #3
      Have not had this issue before.

      The eccentric is hard to move on a good day, so normally I lube the outside of it whenever I have it apart.

      Taking the wheel off when adjusting it might make it easier to move. Also, remove the caliper and make sure that is not where it is binding. Make sure nothing is colliding on the rotor side in general.

      Finally, if you’re still having trouble, maybe take a few photos to share.


      • #4
        Make sure washer #9 on the diagram is in there. The eccentric and axle are sorta 2 independent things so I'm not sure why axle torque would affect the eccentric. Maybe take a look at the back side of #7, the inner cush hub, and see if it is badly worn, which sometimes happens when the cush goes bad and axle nut loosens. Only other thing I can think of, the rear brake caliper floating bracket is hanging up on the eccentric, when everything was loosened and tightened back up again.
        J.D. Hord
        Keeper of Engine Nomenclature, 9th Order


        • #5
          cleaning and lubing the slider pins on the rear caliper is often neglected.


          "It's only getting worse."

          MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

          Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.


          • #6
            I have been for a couple of short rides and everything seems to work fine so I will leave it as is for now. I checked the cush drive rubbers and they are slightly bigger than the originals and that's possibly causing drag when the big nut is torqued up.

            I am now servicing the rear caliper and the slider pins and pad pin are filthy. Just waiting for a new pad pin plug to arrive I had to beat the crap out of the original one which a previous owner had butchered.
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            This gallery has 1 photos.


            • #7
              Originally Posted by Fastmongrel
              I checked the cush drive rubbers and they are slightly bigger than the originals and that's possibly causing drag when the big nut is torqued up.

              It's early and I'm just getting into my coffee, but... I don't think that sounds like everything is right.

              "I couldn't afford NOT to buy it!"


              • #8
                Some times if they eccentric has not been cleaned and serviced there is a lot of grit that will get in and cause it to be somewhat seized. At the front of the swingarm by the shock there are two rubber plugs that go into it. A lot of times they are missing, for whatever reason, Usually due to someone doing a through swingarm brake line modification and not putting one of them back because they forgot to put a hole and feed the brake line through it. If your's are missing then it's probably the source of your issues.

                I would plan on taking a half day, put the bike up on the center stand and pull the wheel and brakes off and get the C clip off as well and get the whole eccentric out and clean out the grit and stuff that may be in the swingarm and just start over from zero and just wipe it down and then put a very small amount of anti-seize on the machined surfaces. I've never seen it to the point where it was 100 % seized, but definitely had one or two where it was really difficult to move using the adjuster wrench on the eccentric. Once you get it all out and clean and rotate and go through the act of adjusting before getting everything nice and dialed in then you shouldn't have any problems. Technically you can adjust it all without having the cush drive on and like JD said the big nut should not have much to do with clocking the eccentric for chain adjustment. It's probably not supposed to have the anti-seize in the grand scheme but I have not had one work loose on me yet.
                88 Blue Hawk GT - Under construction but rideable (guest approved)
                89 BlackHawk 2.0 - On the lift and being assembled
                90 Hawk GT (color as to yet be determined) - Still on the shelf in crates


                • #9
                  Agree with above. Grit gets in there, so it's good to disassemble and clean out every 10k-20k miles or so. I've haven't had the eccentric stuck in the hub before on 4 bikes so far. 1 bike had the axle seized on the cush. I wouldn't put anti-seize or anything on the eccentric. In the long run, it's just going to attract dirt and dust..


                  • #10
                    Your swingarm should look like this when you're ready to put it back together.


                    • #11
                      After the concentric went back in.



                      • #12
                        Wow looks like it has been polished. I like to have clean parts before assembly but that's like operating theatre clean


                        • #13
                          I am planning to strip the back end and clean everything I reckon grit has got in between the adjuster and swinging arm. I need to sort out the mangled chain adjuster teeth that have been hammered with a screwdriver


                          • #14
                            Originally Posted by Fastmongrel
                            Wow looks like it has been polished. I like to have clean parts before assembly but that's like operating theatre clean
                            It helps when my name is the only one that has ever been on the pink slip.
                            I had everything apart to do the cush rubbers so I figured everything just needed to be cleaned up real nice before it all went back together.
                            A little elbow grease, some toothbrushes and some patience is all it took.


                            • #15
                              Originally Posted by bones
                              After the concentric went back in.

                              Respect. Love when people take the time to properly clean parts.
                              Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.