What's the smallest batt you successfully used?

[6]

NOT a Lithium batt.


I need to fit a batt for a street bike in one of wildwhl's prototype "race" subframes. Also need to fit a reg/rec, starter solenoid, fuel pump (stock) and all associated wiring (I'm sure there is more). So I need all the room I can get.


That said, the budget is low, so we can not slip some trick ass little nugget of awesome in there.


Also behindthetimes I believe fit the batt where the coolant res was.. I couldn't find the he thread. Anyone remember that?? It may be the best option here.

Anyone have success with a very small battery?

[ParcNHawk]

I thought Shorai only made LiFe batteries....

Is cost the only reason not to use LiFe?

[eyhonda]

Deleted. I need to read better.

[eyhonda]

If you are adding new wiring, use as a big of a gauge wire as possible, like 8 or 10 gauge welding wire. Minimizing voltage drops everywhere as much as possible. Eliminate any unnecessary connections, switches, etc. Wire as direct and as short as possible. Good hard grounds too. I'm sure Parc will chime in as well in this subject.

Use a hammer crimper and don't waste time on cheap hand crimpers. And good crimps! Cheap crimps will fail.

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Hammer-Crimper-Tool-Warranty/dp/B00E1UUVT0

[wildwhl]

All my small batteries have been LiFe or similar (some home-brew NiMHD long time ago, but not recommended).

WW/R

[ParcNHawk]

A bit off topic but hand crimpers are just fine.

The dies are the important part. Especially because you need a two stage crimp: holding both the insulation (thick) and the bare conductor (thinner) both tightly but not too tight.

Crimping the insulation is important for strain relief so the stress isn't on the conductor itself.

Screenshot_20211204-162324_Gallery.jpg

[eyhonda]

A bit off topic but hand crimper are just fine.

The dies are the important part. Especially because you need a two stage crimp: holding both the insulation (thick) and the bare conductor (thinner) both tightly but not too tight.

Crimping the insulation is important for strain relief so the stress isn't on the conductor itself.

Screenshot_20211204-162324_Gallery.jpg

Completely agree. I was referring to cheap ones with no dies. The die type crimpers are worth the extra cost. Hammer crimpers are for large gauge wires on the starting circuit. One thing to add, make sure your terminals match the dies. Otherwise, you have a bad crimp. Test pull them too.

Those look like ones we use at work.

I have this one myself: http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/94

It's a good value. And they have OEM connectors and terminals.

[ParcNHawk]

100% to testing your crimps right away. I mean... when do you want your crimp to fail? When everything is apart and it costs an extra minute? Or when it's all together? Or on the road 100 miles from home?

I do a lot of equipment grounding with various (4, 6, 8, 10) gauge wires where there is no bench or vise, so I use these:
Screenshot_20211204-165507_Firefox.jpg The photo sucks because the bottom die is misaligned. They don't mesh like gear teeth, they are supposed to make a hexagonal void which makes a 6 sided crimp. The dies spin for the different sizes.

The hammer set up is fine, too. Not everyone wants to buy the most expensive tool for the maximum of 6 large crimps on the Hawk.

But... if you really want the bling, you could even find hydraulic crimpers.

[rpm10k]

I've used a ytz7s equivalent from batteries plus.. I think I paid like $35. your carbs need to be set up for it to catch without too much hassle though, otherwise you should buy a yuasa or other better brand, they've got a bit more cranking amps.

[NumLock]

I was also going to recommend the YTZ7S.

• Dimensions (LxWxH): 4 7⁄16 x 2 3⁄4 x 4 1⁄8 in

https://www.batterystuff.com/powersp...es/sYTZ7S.html

YTZ7S next to a Hawk battery.

[6]

I tossed an a 4 series batt i found at walmart. Its not been charged (i have no charging system hooked up atm) and has started the bike 10+ times now.. . So far so good.

Ill try and make the box around this thing.

[Hordpower]

YTZ7 will be the smallest dead nuts reliable. 5's and 4's will always involve a bit of prayer. It's when extended cranking is needed that they will bite you.

[6]

YTZ7 will be the smallest dead nuts reliable. 5's and 4's will always involve a bit of prayer. It's when extended cranking is needed that they will bite you.

Hopefully if i keep these carbs clean and slow jets large it will work for a bit. at least untill he can buy a lipo. I dont really have room for a 7. But that good info to know for the future.

[wildwhl]

Not vouching for this brand of battery, but inexpensive option perhaps for what it is.

WW/R

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08JXD3545/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B08JXD3545&pd_rd_w=XotA9&pf_rd_p=887084a2-5c34-4113-a4f8-b7947847c308&pd_rd_wg=SKKTp&pf_rd_r=396JVQDYS3HBAWHVQSMB&pd_rd_r=5b2bd9f9-6cc7-4eb4-a6b5-c4db23e68bb2&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUEVJTEpPTE4wQVJCJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDIzMzM1MldNWUtBNVFZMjI4UCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzYwNzQwUUM4UUpWR0JKTFkyJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Screen Shot 2021-12-15 at 12.12.17 PM.png

[drvmax]

I started using UPS batteries on the bikes and ATV. Been pretty impressed with them. I have been buying higher capacity then stock, so the sizes are comparable to lead acid, but with more ampacity.

Mighty Max Battery ML22-12 - 12 Volt 22 AH SLA Battery Brand Product https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K8V2NM4...ing=UTF8&psc=1
I've had these running for three seasons with good results.

For the Hawk, you could run something quite a bit smaller. Maybe the 9AH? I know these are deep cycle and not starting batteries, but small engines don't need a ton of current to turn over.

Good find on the 4S though. Sounds interesting.