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Shorting the fuel pump relay query

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    Shorting the fuel pump relay query

    So in the manual it advises connecting across the black and black blue terminals with a short piece of wire.

    First question - could this be any wire, like 3amp, 5amp ?

    Second question - I don’t have wiring colours like that on my bike, they are as follows;

    I tried connecting across the same two wire positions as suggested in the manual. There’s a whirring sound and then it stops as the main fuse blows.

    So obviously I’m doing something wrong but I’m not a sparky.

    Any help gratefully received
    Attached Files

    #2
    I think I should be using solid copper wire and I’m overloading with my current choice. That’s my hunch.

    Comment


      #3
      Ok no need to reply and yep what a twonk.

      Comment


        #4
        Do you have the full colour wiring diagram?

        If you were looking for a support group you're barking up the wrong tree. This place is fulla enablers dude. - Shooter77us

        The bitterness of low quality lingers long after the thrill of a low price has gone. - RacerX450

        Comment


          #5
          Originally Posted by ParcNHawk View Post
          Do you have the full colour wiring diagram?
          Hi Chap,

          I do now and I really don’t want to say what my mistake was because you are all going to lay so much crap on me But since I’m in a low ego setting I’ll tell you that I was trying to short the wrong relay !!!!! Once I had the correct diagram and then identified the correct relay all was good. I won’t tell you how many bloody fuses I’ve blown

          Comment


            #6
            Originally Posted by Zanderk View Post

            Hi Chap,

            I do now and I really don’t want to say what my mistake was because you are all going to lay so much crap on me But since I’m in a low ego setting I’ll tell you that I was trying to short the wrong relay !!!!! Once I had the correct diagram and then identified the correct relay all was good. I won’t tell you how many bloody fuses I’ve blown
            The bike didn't go up in flames so it's okay. As a spotty teenager I remember trying to fit a new horn once and had to buy a new battery and relay when I let the blue smoke out

            Comment


              #7
              the shorting wire must be insulated......except for the two ends. NO PAPERCLIPS !
              Last edited by squirrelman; 02-19-2022, 07:41 PM.
              "It's only getting worse."


              MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

              Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.

              Comment


                #8
                I have a good one that I just did a couple of months ago. This was on one of my cars. I didn't notice that the negative battery cable was black but most of it was covered with a red insulation sheath. Why they made it that way I will never know but I stupidly hooked up a battery backwards and fried my alternator.
                Brian - Richland, WA
                1991 Hawk GT
                1997 VFR

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally Posted by bk94si View Post
                  I have a good one that I just did a couple of months ago. This was on one of my cars. I didn't notice that the negative battery cable was black but most of it was covered with a red insulation sheath. Why they made it that way I will never know but I stupidly hooked up a battery backwards and fried my alternator.
                  Ive done that on the racebike. But lucky, it has not alternator.. So it just spun the gear backward. I thought i had a clutch issue, tore into that. It was hours into troubleshooting before i knew what i did.

                  We all have our moments.
                  Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Well you’re a generous lot, all good now and carbs back together so today I’ll see if my handywork is successful. This forum rocks though and I thank everyone for it as an ongoing resource for learners like me

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I've been known to use a 12 gauge wire and it seems to hold up OK but i also usually ditch the electric fuel pump and replace it with a vacuum unit when rebuilding the fuel system. It just turns into a much easier job running the fuel line for me.
                      88 Blue Hawk GT - Under construction but rideable (guest approved)
                      89 BlackHawk 2.0 - On the lift and being assembled
                      90 Hawk GT (color as to yet be determined) - Still on the shelf in crates

                      Comment


                        #12
                        ^^ but that costs money !
                        "It's only getting worse."


                        MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

                        Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally Posted by rpcraft View Post
                          I've been known to use a 12 gauge wire and it seems to hold up OK but i also usually ditch the electric fuel pump and replace it with a vacuum unit when rebuilding the fuel system. It just turns into a much easier job running the fuel line for me.
                          Yep that’s on stage 2’s list with the parts on way. Stage 1 is to get it through an MOT standard (ish) so I can register the bike as it’s an import with our authorities.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally Posted by Zanderk View Post

                            Yep that’s on stage 2’s list with the parts on way. Stage 1 is to get it through an MOT standard (ish) so I can register the bike as it’s an import with our authorities.
                            The one downside to the vacuum pump (besides the added complexity) is if you have your carbs off or drained a lot it can take a lot of cranking (keep a stout battery) to bring those babies from empty to running. They have their up sides and look very sharp when combined with a WW mount, but there is a bit of a trade off.
                            Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally Posted by 6 View Post

                              The one downside to the vacuum pump (besides the added complexity) is if you have your carbs off or drained a lot it can take a lot of cranking (keep a stout battery) to bring those babies from empty to running. They have their up sides and look very sharp when combined with a WW mount, but there is a bit of a trade off.
                              WW mount.........more $$$

                              vacuum pump+WW mount+tubing=what $

                              Last edited by squirrelman; 02-22-2022, 09:21 PM.
                              "It's only getting worse."


                              MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

                              Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.

                              Comment

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