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Getting Calicifer Running

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    Getting Calicifer Running

    So, spent most of yesterday trying to get a handle/understanding on the is bike.
    She is the 2nd owner... last folks allegedly owned a shop/did racing... \_ (ツ)_/

    Hasn't been ridden since July 2021... last started 'several months ago', claim is stator is bad, won't charge battery.

    So, not the most electrically minded, but I can follow directions/youtube videos.
    From what I can tell, the stator and rectifier/regulator are working, and the battery is 'good', but low on charge (was charged back to full).
    Cleaned the negative ground connection on the case.

    Drained old gas from tank and carbs and funneled in some new gas...it cranks, but no spark?
    Pulled plugs and grounded against the case to see if there is a spark, no spark that I can see (start/stop is not set to stop)
    I know the Valkyries had an issue with the switch getting gummed up so I'll be taking that apart to clean, also will purchase an inline tester (they are cheap enough) to just be sure.

    Once I get it running I can see if the battery is draining or not charging/overcharging... many have have stated it is probably the rectifier/regulator (and I don't disagree) but I'd rather make sure a part is bad before simply replacing.

    Other things I've noticed, air suspension no visible manufacturer, any ideas?
    Not crazy about the way it is mounted, but it hasn't fallen off yet....
    20220220_095556[1].jpg

    Right side frame along the battery, green/black wires with red plug... not attached too anything, fuel pump? Not seeing the blue tracer.
    20220220_095706[1].jpg

    If I'm reading the manual correctly, it appears the fuel pump is missing, and likely the relay.
    Apparently the bike works without it, but I though I recall reading it is needed to get some of the gas out due to the inner configuration of the tank?
    20220220_100503[1].jpg

    Pulled the petcock and the plastic screen/filter is disintegrated short of what was in the tube.
    Instead there is this thing... the fuel line has to come out of the petcock and then bend *up* to reach the inlet on this filter.
    20220220_103340[1].jpg

    The right Vortex bar is (slightly) bent (allegedly to 'make it fit'... yeah, I'm calling bullshit on that one) and the entire brake/lever assembly rotates.
    Hoping to maybe find just the bar to replace...

    The brake lever proper has *maybe* a 1/4" of travel (looks like a stainless braided cable was added).

    Looks like the end of the fender liner was cut off to 'snug' up the back...

    Rear tire will be coming off to inspect the cush drive
    Brake fluid will be replaced and likely the calipers will be removed/inspected lubed
    Coolant will be checked and replaced if necessary.

    The main goal of this 'project' is to get it running and to operate safely!

    #2
    1. The shock looks like a CBR900RR shock.
    2. The empty red 2 pin connector is for the fuel pump.
    3. The fuel pump relay may or may not still be in the system. It's normally on the mount that holds the underside of the tank up.
    4. Checking the cush drive is best done with everything together and the wheel firmly on the ground. Disassembly is only necessary if there is play.

    If you were looking for a support group you're barking up the wrong tree. This place is fulla enablers dude. - Shooter77us

    The bitterness of low quality lingers long after the thrill of a low price has gone. - RacerX450

    Comment


      #3
      Originally Posted by ParcNHawk View Post
      1. The shock looks like a CBR900RR shock.
      2. The empty red 2 pin connector is for the fuel pump.
      3. The fuel pump relay may or may not still be in the system. It's normally on the mount that holds the underside of the tank up.
      4. Checking the cush drive is best done with everything together and the wheel firmly on the ground. Disassembly is only necessary if there is play.
      Appreciate the info and feedback on the cush drive.
      Given the bike has been ridden for quite some time without the fuel pump is there any benefit to putting it back on the bike?

      Comment


        #4
        plan on hooking up the fuel pump if you want it to run right, and download the service manual for you to study. find the spark box on the rear right side and inspect/clean the plug connections.
        Last edited by squirrelman; 02-22-2022, 12:47 AM.
        "It's only getting worse."


        MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

        Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally Posted by squirrelman View Post
          plan on hooking up the fuel pump if you want it to run right, and download the service manual for you to study. find the spark box on the rear right side and inspect/clean the plug connections.
          I've downloaded the pdf and using the online html version as well.. will likely print it out as I find that easier to deal with when actually working on the bike.

          Cool.. thanks for the info on the pump... I'll let her know that it will need to be added to the list.
          Yeah... pulled the spark unit and it was full of ants

          Comment


            #6
            Originally Posted by Gondul View Post

            Appreciate the info and feedback on the cush drive.
            Given the bike has been ridden for quite some time without the fuel pump is there any benefit to putting it back on the bike?
            Yea. You can run the tank down lower without the bike becoming fuel starved. If you are running wot for long periods of time, either racing, track days, top speed highway runs, situations where you are moving that fuel around the tank (cranked over pulling a little g force) at anything below half a tank and you risk running into situations where the bike may not be able to get the fuel it needs.

            I've run with and without and run into issues without. Especially in a race situation where you want to run as little fuel in tank as possible and use all the fuel you can, the pump is a must have.
            Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

            Comment


              #7
              ANTS ??????
              "It's only getting worse."


              MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

              Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally Posted by squirrelman View Post
                ANTS ??????
                My sentiments exactly...they were all under the top cover and *INSIDE* the damned spark unit running out with damned larvae.

                Today's joy was buying some parts off of ebay... got a fuel pump with all the 'trimmings' and the rear tail of the fender liner so the license plate can be 'properly' mounted.
                Owner is off to buy oil/air filter, oil, new tank rubbers, replacement Vortex Clip, and seeing if we can find a used throttle return cable in decent shape for a decent price.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally Posted by Gondul View Post
                  and seeing if we can find a used throttle return cable in decent shape for a decent price.
                  Food for thought, I and a lot of other people forgo the return cable. It can difficult to keep a throttle nice and snappy with both cables, not impossible, but difficult to get it and keep t that way. IMO the chance of that spring failing or something happening to make you need force that butterfly home (never had it happen or heard of it happing) can get outweighed by the day to day hazard of a sticky throttle. that kill switch is right by your thumb in a real emergency.

                  Not advocating for it, just saying i would not feel bad about not running it.

                  Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally Posted by 6 View Post

                    Food for thought, I and a lot of other people forgo the return cable. It can difficult to keep a throttle nice and snappy with both cables, not impossible, but difficult to get it and keep t that way. IMO the chance of that spring failing or something happening to make you need force that butterfly home (never had it happen or heard of it happing) can get outweighed by the day to day hazard of a sticky throttle. that kill switch is right by your thumb in a real emergency.

                    Not advocating for it, just saying i would not feel bad about not running it.
                    Understood and appreciated... that's a decision for the owner to make.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      And stupid one for the no spark issue.. You already read about the switch, that's the first... They fail. I've troubleshooters no spark with the thing just off.. I can be absent minded..

                      But here is one from my own stupidity..

                      Make sure the coils are plugged in..
                      Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        If you haven't checked it already, you might want to check the neutral switch. That was the cause of my no spark issue.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally Posted by cjb762 View Post
                          If you haven't checked it already, you might want to check the neutral switch. That was the cause of my no spark issue.
                          Neutral switch/clutch switch should be a no crank situation. If it's cranking but not sparking that would be somthing else.
                          Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I'd start my troubleshooting with the damn thing full of ants! Who knows what damage they did in there. Do they eat electronics? Crazy.
                            1988 Hawk
                            1989 Hawk
                            1998 ST1100
                            1999 ST1100
                            North Georgia

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally Posted by The Cheese View Post
                              I'd start my troubleshooting with the damn thing full of ants! Who knows what damage they did in there. Do they eat electronics? Crazy.
                              I guess better than mice...... Maybe..... I have no idea what damage ants can to..

                              Wait!! I'm lying.

                              I had and ants nest in one of our generators. Apparently it was just in the wrong spot and in a place that's great for a nest.

                              they shorted out the digital controller/screen. I'm unsure exactly the cause. We didn't autopsy the controller, but most likely it was not a coincidence... We put the new one in with a lot of insect killer.
                              Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

                              Comment

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