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    F2 fork rebuild question

    Hi all, nice to see you all again....

    Well it was time to replace my F2 fork seals, so apart comes the front end today. BUT.... when I upended my fork tubes to drain the oil, unexpectedly (for me, anyway), all the loose internals came splashing out in my drain tub, and now I'm not sure what order they go back in in.... I have my Hawk FSM, however there are a few unlisted bits to account for, namely Emulators (yay for me) and some nameless hardware to make it all happen I suppose....

    After some online research, re-reading the manual and visiting the RT website, I THINK this is how it all should go back in, but some conformation would be nice.

    From L to R:
    • F2 top caps (which don't seem to be attached to anything, but have a round washerplate clipped in underneath with a cotter pin)
    • PVC spacer
    • Fender washer (presumably to seat the PVC spacer?)
    • Pipe spacer
    • Spring seat plate/washer
    • Spring
    • Emulator (little spring end facing up).
    At this time I've got the dampening rod remounted in the bottom of the fork leg, I just want to be sure I'm assembling it all together properly, as none of my diverse references speak to this ragtag bunch of hardware specifically.

    Thanks in advance..

    fork.png
    Easy on the throttle, steady on the gears, roll her over gently and she'll last for many years.
    __________________________________________________ ____________
    1988 Grey, Supertrapp stubby, Fox TC, Stage 3 & pods, Vortex clipons, mikuni pump on WW`s batarang, BTT`s res delete, Gino's roller, Brent's sliders and torsion arm, SS thru the SSSA, NC30 rear wheel, & lightened rotor....
    2004 WR450 plated, Trick Dual Sport kit, FMF Power-Bomb Exhaust

    #2
    JanM The resident suspension maven....
    Easy on the throttle, steady on the gears, roll her over gently and she'll last for many years.
    __________________________________________________ ____________
    1988 Grey, Supertrapp stubby, Fox TC, Stage 3 & pods, Vortex clipons, mikuni pump on WW`s batarang, BTT`s res delete, Gino's roller, Brent's sliders and torsion arm, SS thru the SSSA, NC30 rear wheel, & lightened rotor....
    2004 WR450 plated, Trick Dual Sport kit, FMF Power-Bomb Exhaust

    Comment


      #3
      The order of the components is correct. Using two different spacers is a little odd. The usual method is to use one length of PVC pipe (that's how I do it) to get your preload.
      ASMA #139

      Comment


        #4
        Originally Posted by Talon View Post
        The order of the components is correct. Using two different spacers is a little odd. The usual method is to use one length of PVC pipe (that's how I do it) to get your preload.
        Ya that looks like someones quick fix solution.

        Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

        Comment


          #5
          Hi Big Ian , just confirming what Talon and @6 said. If you are not sure of oil viscosity and level, please take a look at the Emulator thread. You could also check spring rate, installed preload and later check the sag values... or just ride

          Comment


            #6
            Talon,
            @6,
            JanM ,

            Thank you gents, you've put my mind at ease. I've read over the Emulator thread, maybe I'll go back and study it some more. I read somewhere that Hordpower suggests 12.5w, but much will depend what I can get up here in the boonies.
            Easy on the throttle, steady on the gears, roll her over gently and she'll last for many years.
            __________________________________________________ ____________
            1988 Grey, Supertrapp stubby, Fox TC, Stage 3 & pods, Vortex clipons, mikuni pump on WW`s batarang, BTT`s res delete, Gino's roller, Brent's sliders and torsion arm, SS thru the SSSA, NC30 rear wheel, & lightened rotor....
            2004 WR450 plated, Trick Dual Sport kit, FMF Power-Bomb Exhaust

            Comment


              #7
              Originally Posted by Big Ian View Post
              Talon,
              @6,
              JanM ,

              Thank you gents, you've put my mind at ease. I've read over the Emulator thread, maybe I'll go back and study it some more. I read somewhere that Hordpower suggests 12.5w, but much will depend what I can get up here in the boonies.
              12.5 is from mixing 10 and 15 together, both of which should be easy to find.
              Brian - Richland, WA
              1991 Hawk GT
              1997 VFR

              Comment


                #8
                Originally Posted by bk94si View Post

                12.5 is from mixing 10 and 15 together, both of which should be easy to find.
                Supposing for a moment that fork specific oil is not something readily available in diverse options in my AO: Given that this application is not a motor oil and not subject to the demands of such, can I use hydraulic oil of the right viscosity, if necessary?
                Easy on the throttle, steady on the gears, roll her over gently and she'll last for many years.
                __________________________________________________ ____________
                1988 Grey, Supertrapp stubby, Fox TC, Stage 3 & pods, Vortex clipons, mikuni pump on WW`s batarang, BTT`s res delete, Gino's roller, Brent's sliders and torsion arm, SS thru the SSSA, NC30 rear wheel, & lightened rotor....
                2004 WR450 plated, Trick Dual Sport kit, FMF Power-Bomb Exhaust

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally Posted by Big Ian View Post

                  Supposing for a moment that fork specific oil is not something readily available in diverse options in my AO: Given that this application is not a motor oil and not subject to the demands of such, can I use hydraulic oil of the right viscosity, if necessary?
                  I don't know but probably since some use ATF. I think the problem would be knowing exactly what the viscosity is.
                  Brian - Richland, WA
                  1991 Hawk GT
                  1997 VFR

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Search for topic by JanM - he provides a link with a comparable list of viscosity's of various types and manufacturers of Fork oils - including ATF. A good discussion on the topic as well.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Are fork seals always this big a [email protected]#$# to drive back in??? My hands are wrecked from trying to drive them back in; PVC coupler as a driver.
                      Easy on the throttle, steady on the gears, roll her over gently and she'll last for many years.
                      __________________________________________________ ____________
                      1988 Grey, Supertrapp stubby, Fox TC, Stage 3 & pods, Vortex clipons, mikuni pump on WW`s batarang, BTT`s res delete, Gino's roller, Brent's sliders and torsion arm, SS thru the SSSA, NC30 rear wheel, & lightened rotor....
                      2004 WR450 plated, Trick Dual Sport kit, FMF Power-Bomb Exhaust

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally Posted by Big Ian View Post
                        Are fork seals always this big a [email protected]#$# to drive back in??? My hands are wrecked from trying to drive them back in; PVC coupler as a driver.
                        I used the PVC coupler but used a punch and hammer to drive it.
                        Brian - Richland, WA
                        1991 Hawk GT
                        1997 VFR

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally Posted by Big Ian View Post
                          Are fork seals always this big a [email protected]#$# to drive back in??? My hands are wrecked from trying to drive them back in; PVC coupler as a driver.
                          PVC pipe hammering on an old seal between the driver and the new seal should make short work of it.
                          ASMA #139

                          Comment


                            #14
                            It's almost like its hung up on the cir-clip groove, but I suspect that I'm budgeting too much force into gripping the PVC driver and not enough into actually driving the seal. Gonna get a bigger hammer tomorrow.
                            Easy on the throttle, steady on the gears, roll her over gently and she'll last for many years.
                            __________________________________________________ ____________
                            1988 Grey, Supertrapp stubby, Fox TC, Stage 3 & pods, Vortex clipons, mikuni pump on WW`s batarang, BTT`s res delete, Gino's roller, Brent's sliders and torsion arm, SS thru the SSSA, NC30 rear wheel, & lightened rotor....
                            2004 WR450 plated, Trick Dual Sport kit, FMF Power-Bomb Exhaust

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally Posted by Big Ian View Post
                              It's almost like its hung up on the cir-clip groove, but I suspect that I'm budgeting too much force into gripping the PVC driver and not enough into actually driving the seal. Gonna get a bigger hammer tomorrow.
                              Man they usually tap back in reasonably easy for me
                              Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

                              Comment

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