Sand old paint or chemical strip?

[Smick6]

I know there are a million youtube videos on this but I am looking for opinions from you guys. I have an old cowl and fender that I want to test paint before I do the actual body parts on the bike.
Is there a chemical stripper that works well on the rear cowl and fender (and eventually a tank) or is it better to sand it down? Its not original paint, at least on the top layer.

Do you guys use epoxy primers or regular primer?

[Maritime]

on the cowl/fender I would sand down to plastic, chemical stripper can eat into the ABS and mess it up. On a tank if original paint I would sand and repaint, if not original I would probably strip it with a stripper to bare metal then use etching primer, paint and 2k clear.

[6]

Sand. Especially the cowl sand it.

Like Maritime said maybe if someone else already took the factory paint off a tank you could try to strip it.

I've never had any luck with stripper. Ever. Normally just makes a mess I then have to sand. So personally, I sand everything.

[Maritime]

Sand. Especially the cowl sand it.

Like Maritime said maybe if someone else already took the factory paint off a tank you could try to strip it.

I've never had any luck with stripper. Ever. Normally just makes a mess I then have to sand. So personally, I sand everything.

The new strippers on the market are crap. IF you can find Circa 1850 in the old formula that stuff will take factory paint off in minutes right to bare metal. The newer stuff takes hours and 20 coats and then you still have to sand like you said @6. So I use my random orbit and like 120-220 grit and have at it until done.

[Maritime]

This took less than 20 min with 220 on a random orbit sander.

[Smick6]

Thanks guys.

[ricksax]

Yes, sanding is the prep ticket for plastic parts. Orbital sanding works fine to get started, then block sanding with progressively finer grades of wet sandpaper. I've had good luck with Duplicolor 2 in 1 Primer and Filler (rattle can) because it is high build.
Then I give parts to my professional painter who uses a catalytic primer/sealer; color coat; many clear coats. Expensive, but without a spray booth, I always have dust problems.

[6]

Yes, sanding is the prep ticket for plastic parts. Orbital sanding works fine to get started, then block sanding with progressively finer grades of wet sandpaper. I've had good luck with Duplicolor 2 in 1 Primer and Filler (rattle can) because it is high build.
Then I give parts to my professional painter who uses a catalytic primer/sealer; color coat; many clear coats. Expensive, but without a spray booth, I always have dust problems.

Unless you wet down your entire painting area, then no dist problems... Just Waters and humidity problems


Here is the 1 and only trick I have found to painting without a very clean area/paint booth. Just accept that you will have to go back, sand stuff out, go again, repeat until you are satisfied.

But there are things. Makeshift paint booths of plastic wrap and duct tape, damp floors, clean to hell and power wash out your garage/shop, keep movement in the area down, there are ways.. but all of them are annoying compared to a clean paint booth.

[ParcNHawk]

And don't do the sanding in your paint booth.

[Maritime]

Ha, I hear you. I have no booth but I do put plastic up to help outside when I clear. Thankfully the 2K dries and hardens fast. I've been able to get perfect results without dust. I have though had a bug or 2 land and stick, that pisses me off LOL.

[rpcraft]

now days finding a stripper that works will be a challenge. You'll just end up makign a mess and then having to sand it and making more mess. I say sand it and make one mess.

[Smick6]

Sanding it is.