No running tail lights

[How2]

I have the ignition key apart. There is no power coming out of the brown wire ( from the key) to power the tail light . ( I do have brake lights)

With the assembly apart I cleaned the contact points and the copper bridge engagement points to insure contact is being made

With that sub assembly put together the contact points can engage (rotated) by hand to see where power is made. Headlight, horn and turn signal all have power

Apparently, the Brown (wired) terminal has no continuity from the top contact point to the solder point at the bottom where the wiring starts to power the tail light .


Likely there is an internal break between the contact point and the solder point.

Anyone have experience with disassembling this and repairing it??


If cannot be repaired, anyone have a spare unit they can part with?

H2

[ParcNHawk]

Take those 2 brown wires and just short them together and see if that solves your problem.

If it does, then leave them connected.

That part of the switch is for the parking light. And it's only function is to wear down your battery when you accidentally turn the key one more click after locking the steering.

Most of us pull fuse Home to prevent the park light from functioning at all.

[How2]

thanks for the idea-

From the ignition switch , I am seeing only 1 brown wire.

If I am not mistaken the YELLOW & BLACK STRIPE wire is for the parking light, correct?

Apparently someone has been in this wiring before and used a black wire for the repair seen to the left of the brown wire.

So the question is where would the jump be made?

[ParcNHawk]

Joining the two brown wires meaning the brown one to the brown one with the white stripe.

And yes, the yellow wire provides the power to the parking light but only in a position that has the tail light (brown wire) disconnected from all the other lights (the brown wire with the white stripe.) The only reason there are any brown wires in the ignition at all is for the parking light function.

[How2]

I did a jump test from the brown wire to the brown stripe wire. There is no power.

Apparently someone went in and did soldering to the brown striped wire. The theory is that there is a solder point inside the contact biscuit and and re-soldering wires back to their solder point melts the internal contact between the top contact point and the wire attachment point.

i did a few probes and found the tail light will illuminate, if the brown wire is jumped to the blue and orange stripe wire or red and black stripe wire with the key on. With the key off, everything shuts off.

See any issue with jumping to one of those options?

[ParcNHawk]

Do you want a short in your taillight to kill your fan or your spark?

That's the problem with jumpering it to just any power.

[ParcNHawk]

Do the gauges light up with the key on?

[How2]

Ok so now I know the issue with jumping to the other power leads

To address your question - yes all the lights work, turns, instrument, headlight as well as the horn with the key on- brake light works

Its just the running tail light that is an issue.

[ParcNHawk]

And when you put power on the brown wire the tail lights light up? Correct?

Then your answer is to splice your brown wire to the brown wire with the white stripe and be done with it.

You should do the at the white two pin connector that has only these two wires on it and connects to the key switch. You should do it on the bike side (not the switch side) and then leave that connector disconnected.

That keeps it on the correct fuse. The headlight and horn aren't on the same fuse as these lights.

I would also check to see if the park light function on the keyswitch turns on the gauge and tail lights (with the steering locked). If it does, then I would pull out fuse from the fuse block under the headlight and leave it that way.

The lights are divided on several circuits:

The front marker lights (front turn signals being dim) and tail light (dim) and gauge back lights are on one fuse/circuit.

The brake lights and turn signals are on another fuse/circuit.

Finally the headlight is on its own fuse/circuit: both high and low. It also includes the high beam warning light on the dash.

[How2]

Hello

thanks for the notes.

i found the problem in the loom which had broken wires.

problem resolved

again, thanks for the notes

H2