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    silly question time

    When I first bought my old hawk years ago one of the first things I did was the Cush drives because the bike shifted hard and rough.

    I now own the shaft driven hawk its little, tamer brother the NTV650, I'm a bit sheepish to ask, is there any Cush drive maintenance to be done with this shaft driven monstrosity?

    Thanks in advance.

    #2
    Have you looked for a service manual to see what it says? I am certain on some scheduled interval it requires oil changing and if wear is aggravated some parts replacement as well.
    88 Blue Hawk GT - Under construction but rideable (guest approved)
    89 BlackHawk 2.0 - On the lift and being assembled
    90 Hawk GT (color as to yet be determined) - Still on the shelf in crates

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      #3
      Doesn't look like it.
      Attached Files
      ASMA #139

      Comment


        #4
        So not cush dampers, but can someone explain how that spring (part # 5 in Talon's attachment) works? I'd guess that's some kind of driveline shock-prevention mechanism but it is escaping me how it functions from that illustration.

        Comment


          #5
          This is my guess. It looks to me that Special to Classifieds go into the rear housing held together by nut Special . I think #3-4-5 go into Visitor Messages as it looks like there is a spline at the end of number 3. I think the spring smooths or just loads tension in the drive line to reduce slack or noise and maybe ad some cushioning as the swing arm moves up and down. The drive shaft Blogs should be inside and enclosed housing I think.
          Bill,
          88 Blue Hawk (bike #39), 89 Red Hawk, 2021 Rebel 1100 (bike 41) Some Past/sold in reverse order:,FZ09,97 Magna #1&2 , 97 VFR750F, 87 VFR400R, 88 Hawk, 86 SRX 600, 77 RD400, 79 CB650, 04 VFR, 88 Blue Hawk, 89 Red Hawk, Yamaha SRX600, Harley 1200C, Yamaha RD400, Harley 883R, Yamaha 750 triple, Vlx600, Honda 450, Honda 400, CB550F, Kawasaki H1, BMW R69US, Yamaha R5C 350, Honda 160, Bridgestone 175, 1950 Harley 74 w/sidecar, 65 Harley 250 Sprint, 1948 Harley and my 1st bike-1941 Harley 74 knucklehead my dad gave in1963.

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            #6
            BillnOroville hmm i see what you mean in the diagram, then this implies the bike isn't loaded, then the weight transfer of the bike forward/ backward into the downshift or shift up would be the dampening of the engine to reduce shock? but then for example with a passenger or cargo the bike would be rear end favorable, meaning... less dampening? hmmm so then logic would lead me to think that if i tightened the front forks it would actually create more wear on engine internals.... god i wish there was an active group of NTV owners.

            I have to replace the rear brake rotor as the guy before me warped it, so i was going to take the saft apart and look for any serious signs of wear and tare while I'm putting in braided lines.

            Talon is the the hayes manual? or is there another thats available.

            tian647 i would think its to keep shaft 3 seated in U joint 1, while shaft/gear 13 and shaft 3 has the ability to... erm, slide in and out in order to maintain contact? maybe?

            Comment


              #7
              The spring keeps tension on the shaft. It's essentially a slip joint, much like a 2 piece driveshaft. As the suspension goes up and down the splines have to move in and out.
              88 Blue Hawk GT - Under construction but rideable (guest approved)
              89 BlackHawk 2.0 - On the lift and being assembled
              90 Hawk GT (color as to yet be determined) - Still on the shelf in crates

              Comment


                #8
                From other shaft bikes I've worked on I would say just change the gear oil and you should be good.
                Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

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