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Issues after cleaning carbs

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    Issues after cleaning carbs

    This forum has become my most valued tool lol. So I replaced the carb manifolds because they were leaking. The bike would stumble and I could see gas spray out of them. Also didn’t run well at low rpm when cold. However other than that occasional stumble it would idle pretty evenly. Since I had the carbs off I decided to clean them. Adjusted the throttle valves and put it back together. Now it’s backfiring or something constantly at idle and when using the choke. I don’t notice it while riding unless I’m at a stop. I can’t seem to attach videos. The jets are stock I believe and the pilot screw is no longer plugged so I guess the po had some adjustments done. Took the tank back off to make sure everything was in its place. Didn’t find anything. It will idle around 1100 when warm. Any advice is appreciated.

    #2
    that's the correct idle speed. be sure idle mixture screws are set somewhere between 2 to 2 1/2 turns out. remove one sparkplug from each cylinder and post photos here.
    "It's only getting worse."


    MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

    Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.

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      #3
      Side note: I was just reading that the choke could be causing the issue. I attempted to adjust it when I put the carbs on. It didn’t seem to adjust the way the manual said it should but it was inside the 10-11mm range but I wasn’t confident with the install

      Comment


        #4
        Originally Posted by squirrelman View Post
        that's the correct idle speed. be sure idle mixture screws are set somewhere between 2 to 2 1/2 turns out. remove one sparkplug from each cylinder and post photos here.
        I’ll grab the photos tomorrow. I also forgot to mention it has a muzzy slip on.

        Comment


          #5
          make sure the choke cable has sufficient freeplay so. that the wire isn't tight with lever off.
          "It's only getting worse."


          MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

          Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally Posted by squirrelman View Post
            that's the correct idle speed. be sure idle mixture screws are set somewhere between 2 to 2 1/2 turns out. remove one sparkplug from each cylinder and post photos here.
            ok so I won’t have a chance to pull the plugs till later in the week but I have posted a video on YouTube that shows the issue I’m having. The idle mixture screws were 1 turn out. I turned them on out to 2 1/4 turns and also made sure the choke felt loose on the top end of the lever. It does seem to be a lot better than it was before at regular idle but still pretty sick sounding while using the choke. I will attach the link to my video
             

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              #7
              Bike sounds fine,it sounded crap at the start of the video because I’m guessing you were running it with the choke on to long. Get on and ride it and put and put some protective gear on, at least a pair of decent gloves.!

              Comment


                #8
                Originally Posted by Tripleman View Post
                Bike sounds fine,it sounded crap at the start of the video because I’m guessing you were running it with the choke on to long. Get on and ride it and put and put some protective gear on, at least a pair of decent gloves.!
                Yeahhhh Gear is high on my shopping list. I noticed this morning that after starting the bike I didn’t need to use the choke nearly as long as before I replaced parts, cleaned carbs, and adjusted the pilot screws. I think you might be right

                Comment


                  #9
                  with clean cabs and a properly-tuned hawk there should be no need to use the choke for more than 10-15 seconds. if it idles too slow, use the adjustment screw to boost it up a bit.
                  "It's only getting worse."


                  MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

                  Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally Posted by squirrelman View Post
                    with clean cabs and a properly-tuned hawk there should be no need to use the choke for more than 10-15 seconds. if it idles too slow, use the adjustment screw to boost it up a bit.
                    I'd argue, that a properly tuned hawk doesn't need choke at all, because it's got the larger slows and just fires off the button..

                    Never had a working choke setup on a hawk.. silicone those damned plungers in the holes and call'er'good

                    Good morning my friend.


                    Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      And there's arguement that you're tuned rich.

                      If you were looking for a support group you're barking up the wrong tree. This place is fulla enablers dude. - Shooter77us

                      The bitterness of low quality lingers long after the thrill of a low price has gone. - RacerX450

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally Posted by ParcNHawk View Post
                        And there's arguement that you're tuned rich.
                        In the case that it is tuned rich how would I dial it in? As easily as turning the pilot screws or will I need to pull carbs again and adjust floats? Maybe both?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          ^^ floats should not be adjusted up or down from the 9mm standard setting and never to adjust a/f ratio, that's jetting or mixture screws/idle jets or needles.
                          Last edited by squirrelman; 08-30-2022, 08:41 PM.
                          "It's only getting worse."


                          MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1

                          Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            You gotta make sure the carb is clean and assembled 100% correctly or you won't be tuning it.

                            Then you do the jetting top-down; doing the idle last.

                            If you were looking for a support group you're barking up the wrong tree. This place is fulla enablers dude. - Shooter77us

                            The bitterness of low quality lingers long after the thrill of a low price has gone. - RacerX450

                            Comment

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