Rear brake switch blowing fuse

[CSentinel]

1988 NT650GT.
Stock other than the fuel pump bypass and upgraded the battery to a Li FeP04 battery to get a quicker crank. Sanded it down a few years ago and had it repainted since previous owner had spilled some brake fluid on the tank and it was all peeled off, and the old colour scheme had been the red seat with 'blue' tank, but the seat had faded to a more pink colour. So redid the seat in black and painted the tank, cowl and front fender red.

Recently the bike popped a fuse on the turn/horn/brake circuit. I have tracked it down to the rear brake switch. Couldn't see any rub throughs on the wire, but with a meter it was showing a closed circuit to ground off the white wire when I had the swtich closed. It appears that it is grounding out through the spring itself. Is this a common failure method for these switches?

Any way to repair the switch or should I see if my local Honda dealer is still able to get the part? Looks like it has been used in a few bikes but I never know up her in Canada if parts are available.

[ParcNHawk]

I think the plunger is plastic on the switch, do wouldn't conduct anyway.

If you disconnect the spring from the lever does it solve the problem?

If you disconnect the switch and shunt the contacts together on the bike, what happens? Does the light come on or does it pop the fuse, again?

[CSentinel]

With the spring disconnected from the lever, and pulling on the spring with my finger, I don't get a ground to the frame any longer.

The part that the spring went through on the switch seemed to be metal.

With the switch disconnected and the contacts jumped I get rear brake light.

So I am 95% sure its the switch, just a question of whether this a something that I should just replace or is it worth trying to tear it down and repair it. Part of that will be based on finding out what the local dealer wants for the part and what the lead time is on it.

[squirrelman]

i don't regret the time i spent stupidly prying apart and gently cleaning the switch contacts cuz i'm too cheap to buy a replacement.

just buy one on ebay used or buy new. there are billions of working switches sitting in junkyards everywhere ripe for re-cycling.

pull-springs very in length by model.


gallery_3647_3505_132315.jpg

[ParcNHawk]

Sounds like you're on the right track.

I don't know about fixing the switch.

If the part is still available at the dealer it won't be expensive: about $12 USD from Ron Ayers.

IF... I know getting stuff in Canada isn't the easiest. You should post a WTB thread in the for sale section and maybe someone will have one ready to sell.

[6]

Easy solution here. . .

Dont use the rear brake. Win win unless by chance you are on a motocross track.

[DrPMC]

I've been happy with the hydraulic banjo bolt switch that I've fitted.

[CSentinel]

Easy solution here. . .

Dont use the rear brake. Win win unless by chance you are on a motocross track.

That is one option. For the moment I went with a slightly less extreme solution. I just disconnected the rear brake light switch. Still can use the brake, just don't get a brake light unless I use some front brake. Only annoyance woudl be at a stop light when I want to give my throttle hand a stretch.

[CSentinel]

I've been happy with the hydraulic banjo bolt switch that I've fitted.

Curious to see what you did for this solution. Is there a post on it?

[DrPMC]

Curious to see what you did for this solution. Is there a post on it?

Just search on EBay for ‘banjo bolt brake light switch’ and you’ll find the type of part I used - it’s plug and play. My back brake is all non standard so that committed me to replacing the standard switch but it seems like a useful modification in any case, especially if the standard switch is faulty.

[69Falcon]

A Canadian will be coming to visit me in 2 weeks. If I have one in the stash (at work so I’ll have to check) I can have him mail it to you after smuggling it through customs.

[ParcNHawk]

Pressure switch is nice that it requires no periodic adjustment and won't get dirty from the outside.

One disadvantage is that the brake light doesn't come on as early as a properly adjusted lever switch.

[squirrelman]

I just disconnected the rear brake light switch. Still can use the brake, just don't get a brake light unless I use some front brake

too much danger of being hit in the rear by bad driver

[CSentinel]

too much danger of being hit in the rear by bad driver

Agreed, that is why I want to get it fixed, but the disconnect was necessary to be able to get it home since otherwise, I woudl lose turn signals, horn, and brake light the second I hit the rear brake. So by unplugging it, I could at least replace the fuse, and then ride it home, just knowing that I need to always use front brake when I actually want the brake light to be 'on'. Will see what the local dealer says today, hoping to give them a call when I am on break.

[6]

That is one option. For the moment I went with a slightly less extreme solution. I just disconnected the rear brake light switch. Still can use the brake, just don't get a brake light unless I use some front brake. Only annoyance woudl be at a stop light when I want to give my throttle hand a stretch.

I was mostly kidding, you should be able to find the short..

That's said, I'm not joking when I say I don't even have a rear brake on the majority of my street and race bikes..

I'll argue to the death you don't need that brake with the exception of low traction situations and like you mentioned, stopped on a hill and want to rest/use that right hand.