My 1990 all of a sudden has no spark when trying to start with the handlebar switch. It will however spark and run from a rolling start by popping the clutch. The battery is brand new, and the fuel pump is around 5 months old now. Could it be that the fuel pump has gone bad already? I have to admit it was rather cheap. Thanks for the help!
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The starter button cranks the motor but won't fire the spark plugs at the same time? That sounds like a bad battery.
What's the voltage on the battery?
& When the engine is off and the keys on...
& When the engine is being cranked by the starter button...
& When the engine is running.
If you were looking for a support group you're barking up the wrong tree. This place is fulla enablers dude. - Shooter77us
The bitterness of low quality lingers long after the thrill of a low price has gone. - RacerX450 -
I went and purchased a brand new sealed battery today. Same exact one I bought just 6 months ago. Put the new battery in and it fired right up. I did check the battery that I had in it, and the voltage was only a few volts lower because it's been sitting a few weeks in the cold. The new battery was around 12.7 or so, where as the old one was around 12.1, so not a huge difference, although I know the amps can take a hit. With the key in the on position, it dropped to around 11-something.
When this problem first occurred back in September, I had fired the bike up to take it for a spin and it died a couple of miles from my place as soon as I came to a stop at a stop sign. I live in the country, so no traffic. It wouldn't fire with the starter so I was able to roll it and pop the clutch. Drove it home and as soon as I pulled the clutch in, it dies. Prior to that, I had regularly ridden the bike. I didn't think I needed to put it on a minder because I was riding it weekly, and most of the time daily for a good few months. But when I got it back home, I kept it on a charger for a while and it did nothing to help it. It would turn over very strongly, but never put out enough amps to give spark.
So I guess my question now is what would be causing the battery to be going dead like that? Could it be a failing stator or some other component? Thank you!Comment
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a bad r/r can drain the battery while parked
for charging use 1-amp for about 8 hours, not a trickle charger. if it dies when clutch is in you may have bad diode or bad wiring in starter lockout circuitry."It's only getting worse."
MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1
Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.Comment
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Thanks for the advice! r/r? Are you referring to the voltage regulator/rectifier or something else? Yeah when I initially tried charging the last battery, I had it set to 2 amps over night with auto shutoff but it didn't help. I went ahead and removed that new battery tonight so it wasn't sitting there hooked up to the bike until the charging system is fixed. I'm about to prep it for winter storage anyway.Last edited by ssccrab; 11-13-2022, 11:27 PM.Comment
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^^ regulator /rectifier
since you charged the battery properly it should show at least 12.6 volts, anything much less could mean you need a new one. 12.1 isn't enough to power the starter motor plus the ignition system. follow testing procedure in the manual step-by-step.Last edited by squirrelman; 11-14-2022, 12:05 AM."It's only getting worse."
MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1
Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.Comment
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If you were looking for a support group you're barking up the wrong tree. This place is fulla enablers dude. - Shooter77us
The bitterness of low quality lingers long after the thrill of a low price has gone. - RacerX450Comment
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If it passes the charging tests then we check for a parasitic draw. Everything in the correct order.
If you were looking for a support group you're barking up the wrong tree. This place is fulla enablers dude. - Shooter77us
The bitterness of low quality lingers long after the thrill of a low price has gone. - RacerX450Comment
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Happy Holiday's to you all! It's been too cold to work on it, but finally go to it yesterday. Here's what I found with my voltmeter. Keep in mind that the battery has been sitting in the garage for over a month, hadn't put it on a minder, so the initial numbers when first starting the bike are lower than normal. The new battery did start the bike though:
With the key on, engine off: 12.5 - 11.8
Engine cranked: 11.5 - 10.5
Engine running: 13.6 - 13.8 and the average was 13.7
When I turned the key off and shut the bike down, the battery spiked to 14.14 at the very end, then back to 12.5
What does this say? Thanks!Comment
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Looks good, so far.
12.65V is a fully charged battery. 11.8V is (more than) discharged. You're measuring right from the battery terminals, right? I wouldn't expect it to start under 12V.
Good news that it started the bike.
Good numbers, again. That's about right for a strong battery.
Perfect. It's within the acceptable range to recharge the battery.
Perfectly normal. All we need to do now is check for a parasitic draw.
Does your multimeter measure Amps?
If you were looking for a support group you're barking up the wrong tree. This place is fulla enablers dude. - Shooter77us
The bitterness of low quality lingers long after the thrill of a low price has gone. - RacerX450Comment
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Thank you for your reply! I'm glad to see that it's charging normally. It cranked right up even with those lower numbers, but the amps on the battery are still good. Not like the last battery I had where it was fully charged from a minder but not sparking the bike, and that battery is still new from earlier this year. I went ahead and ordered a stator & rectifier this morning anyway. Yes, my multimeter does measure amps.Comment
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I think you jumped the gun ordering the parts.
Changing the stator is a lot of unnecessary; work, expense (gasket), and it takes specialized tools (flywheel removal). If there's nothing wrong with the old one then it's a waste.
My experience with trickle chargers or tenders or minders have always been bad. They keep a float level voltage on it and everyone thinks that battery is fine. Until you install it and the 12.6V drops to 8V as soon as you connect any load.
We should still do a parasitic load test.
If you were looking for a support group you're barking up the wrong tree. This place is fulla enablers dude. - Shooter77us
The bitterness of low quality lingers long after the thrill of a low price has gone. - RacerX450Comment
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Oohh I'm a diesel mechanic and owner operator, so I've got all the tools in the world, lol! This job ain't nothin'. I'll inspect it and if there's nothing out of the ordinary, I'll at least have them on hand. Looks like I'll do a draw test soon as I can get back to it. What should I be looking for on this bike to indicate a parasitic draw? Or in other words, what's the most likely thing that would cause it?
I've refreshed a lot of batteries using a commercial truck charger in my farm shop, or a stick welder to clear any sulfation, but I don't need to be doing that with a tiny battery.Comment
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charging voltage looks like stator is good. consult the fsm for stator testing procedure."It's only getting worse."
MY rides: '97 VFR750, '90 Red Hawk, '88 Blue/Black Hawk, '86 RWB VFR700 (3), '86 Yamaha Radian, '90 VTR250, '89 VTR250 (2), '73 CB125, '66 Yamaha YL-1
Sold: '86 FJ1200, '92 ZX-7, '90 Radian, '73 CB750, '89 all-white Hawk, '88 blue Hawk, '86 FZ600, '86 Yam Fazer 700 , '89 VTR250, '87 VFR700F2, '86 VFR700F.Comment
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