Honda Bros 400NT No Power :( (6 Years stored)

[steak1990]

Hi Guys

I wonder if you could help me out please.

I Just returned after a long time abroad home and decided to get my Honda Bros 400Nt up and running. It was stored away for 6 Years.....

Got a new Battery. Connected it, turned the key( after using quiet a lot of W40) and nothing.....

Went straight to the main fuse, only to see that the Starter Relay was completely Rusted. Got a new one replaced it and still nothing....

Next I got a Multimeter out to check the Ignition switch, all good there, so I 'am clueless.


I'm not a pro in this, just basic knowledge, I would appreciate any suggestions from where to tackle the problem

many thanks,

[ParcNHawk]

When you say nothing, do you mean electrically nothing? Like nothing lights up?

[steak1990]

Yes no power at all

[steak1990]

Yes no power at all

Yes nothing lights up

[ParcNHawk]

If the key was excessively stuck, maybe the electric portion of it is not actually engaged.

Let's follow the power.

First place to check is at the voltage regular/rectifier. Are you getting +12V at the the red wires there?

[steak1990]

I'm unable to check it now but will go back to the garage tommorow...

Should the voltage rectifier receive 12v when the key is turned on "on" ?

[ParcNHawk]

Should the voltage rectifier receive 12v when the key is turned on "on" ?

I'll take that to mean "only when the key is on."

And the answer to that is no... It is connected with the battery so it always gets power. Key on or key off.

The regulator/rectifier and the "batt" side of the key switch (solid red wire) are the only devices that are unswitched and are constantly connected to the battery.

Do you have a copy of the service manual?

The 650 manual and wiring diagram are easy to come by and are close enough to diagnose this.

[steak1990]

Yes I did found a manual but unable to upload it getting error messages. I've attached the wiring diagram.

Thanks for the response btw! Really appreciate it =)

[squirrelman]

try using a JUmper wire between battery negative and the frame. new batteries should be properly charged [8 hours @ 1 amp] before use. what voltage do you see across battery terminals ?

suggest you make sure the engine is free by rolling it in gear after adding some oil through sparkplug holes.

[steak1990]

So, I'm not abit wiser today xD

I started with checking the BAT from the ignition switch and the red wiring to the rectifier as you suggested , I got no reading.( I grounded the black cable from the Multimeter and connected the red to the ignition switch back with no reading)

I than went on to check the cable for continuity from the ignition switch to the relays the cables are continuis.

Same from the relay to the rectifier also.

I just don't get any voltage readings anywhere, do i Use the mutilmeyer proparly ? 20 dc ground the black and contact the red right ?

I've attached a few pics from my poor honda

>.<

[ParcNHawk]

There are some problems with your connections.

[steak1990]

There are some problems with your connections.

XD

I can tell I did it all wrong...

I wont check the continuity with the Battery connected Thank you.

In the middle picture with the Red cable from the Rectifier , I connected the black Probe to the grounding/frame. (is that the wrong way of checking the voltage?)

In the right picture: After I connected it to the wiring I got 12,7v when I connect the Red probe to the Battery and the Black probe to the red wire.

Just so I got this right ...... to check the Voltage: Should I connect one probe to the battery and the other probe to the cable I want to check the voltage?

thanks for your patience....

[ParcNHawk]

In the middle picture with the Red cable from the Rectifier , I connected the black Probe to the grounding/frame. [I](is that the wrong way of checking the voltage?)

If the ground connection is good. But a lot of the clear surfaces actually are insulated. To check if your ground is good, take a resistance measurement between that grounding point and the negative terminal of the battery.

After we fix the main problem, I'll teach you how to check the condition of your ground.

In the right picture: After I connected it to the wiring I got 12,7v when I connect the Red probe to the Battery and the Black probe to the red wire.

so now we check the key switch to see what it's doing.

Just so I got this right ...... to check the Voltage: Should I connect one probe to the battery and the other probe to the cable I want to check the voltage?

One cable to the battery ground and the other to the place you want to check voltage, yup.

BUT be careful of what you disconnect. Sometimes you open the very circuit you're trying to check. The starter relay has a (more or less) sealed boot around it, but most other places can be tested while connected by sticking the probe through the backside of the connector and contacting where the wire is crimped to the blade inside.

[ParcNHawk]

Next test:

Voltage out of the key switch.

Black probe on the negative battery post and red probe on the solid red wire. You should have +12 here all the time.

With the key on you should have +12V on all 3 of those wires.

[steak1990]

Next test:

Voltage out of the key switch.

Black probe on the negative battery post and red probe on the solid red wire. You should have +12 here all the time.

With the key on you should have +12V on all 3 of those wires.

Will do!


What I did today: I Connected 1 probe to the Positive of the Battery and checked for Voltage from the Back of the Ignition switch on the Red cable and had a 12,7v reading, followed the cable to the Fuse box and to the starter Relay and everything was showing 12.7v.....

This way every cable, fuse or frame I touched with the probe had 12.7v....

I assume my mistake was I did not probe from the Negative of the battery..... ?