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    Float position

    I have re-jetted my carbs but don't really understand the part about adjusting the floats.

    How are u to measure the float height? I need to set them to
    "9.1mm/.358"

    Any help would be good.

    I am following the setting that JD Hord gave on this page:

    http://www.mahonkin.com/~milktree/hawk/carb-tuning.html


    Rob
    Rob
    88 Street Hawk
    F2 tank, Aztec8 dual 4", Duc seat and CF cowl, Stage 3 jet, Uni Pods, M4 stubby, SV650 clips, controls & fuel pump, GSXR front mc and CFB1000 front caliper, F3 forks upper and internals, Penske 8983, Gino RCR, rear jump plates & R6 pegs and Vapor gauge...
    04 CRF50 pit bike and stunt runner...
    91 Suzuki GSF400 Bandit (she's a runner now...)

    #2
    I set mine at 9.1mm measuring from the carb bowl base to the highest point on the float. Position the float at the point where the float tang just touches the needle then measure.

    Comment


      #3
      Well... I am a visual person and for some reason I can't seem to get it... sorry...

      So I have taken a few pictures of th float and see if any one can give better direction with images...

      What I think I need to do is measure from the bowl flange with the float hanging down but where an I to measure at? and how do i adjust the float to the right height?

      Float hanging down:


      Float looking down:


      Float upside down:
      Rob
      88 Street Hawk
      F2 tank, Aztec8 dual 4", Duc seat and CF cowl, Stage 3 jet, Uni Pods, M4 stubby, SV650 clips, controls & fuel pump, GSXR front mc and CFB1000 front caliper, F3 forks upper and internals, Penske 8983, Gino RCR, rear jump plates & R6 pegs and Vapor gauge...
      04 CRF50 pit bike and stunt runner...
      91 Suzuki GSF400 Bandit (she's a runner now...)

      Comment


        #4
        http://www.hawkworks.net/manual/4.ht...-float-chamber
        Using a float level gauge on the edge of the carb body to where the float touches the tab on the gauge when the float tang is just contacting the float valve.
        FLOAT LEVEL
        Measure the float level with the float tang just contacting the float valve.

        FLOAT LEVEL: 9.2 mm (0.36 in)

        Adjust the float level by carefully bending the tang.
        or as per the Factory Pro site:-
        Float heights, unless otherwise specified in the installation guide, are measured from the "gasket surface" of the carb body to the highest part of the top of the float - with the float tang touching but not compressing the float valve spring.
        "Life may begin at 40, but it doesn't get real interesting until about 150."

        • '88 in Candy Flair Blue + '90 in Italian Red
        • Ohlins Rear Shock
        • F2 front wheel
        • VFR750 rear wheel
        • Hiperform seat&headers
        • MSMotorsport Seat Cowl
        • Steve Lenac Tokico six pot caliper

        Comment


          #5
          Yeah JR I know where the service manual is, but it does not show how to adjust the floats to the spec I am wanting them at...
          Rob
          88 Street Hawk
          F2 tank, Aztec8 dual 4", Duc seat and CF cowl, Stage 3 jet, Uni Pods, M4 stubby, SV650 clips, controls & fuel pump, GSXR front mc and CFB1000 front caliper, F3 forks upper and internals, Penske 8983, Gino RCR, rear jump plates & R6 pegs and Vapor gauge...
          04 CRF50 pit bike and stunt runner...
          91 Suzuki GSF400 Bandit (she's a runner now...)

          Comment


            #6
            Hawk Jr, is most likely referring to the angle that the carb should be at to get the correct measurement. The Hawk Works manual shows almost straight up and down for measuring, but I believe that it should be more at a 45 degree angle (the float cover mounting flange)??
            1986 Honda NS400R
            1988 Honda Hawk GT

            Keep your feet on the pegs and your right hand cranked.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally Posted by ghandi1616 View Post
              Hawk Jr, is most likely referring to the angle that the carb should be at to get the correct measurement. The Hawk Works manual shows almost straight up and down for measuring, but I believe that it should be more at a 45 degree angle (the float cover mounting flange)??
              Stand the carbs on its side so the float pin it vertical. Then tilt the assembly slightly so the float closes very easily till it stops. No more pressure. This is where you measure.

              According to your picture

              Gino
              Chain Roller

              NEVER UNDERESTIMATE THE PREDICTABILITY OF STUPIDITY

              2012 CCS LRRS ULSB Champion
              2012 CCS LRRS P89 Champion
              2008 CCS ULSB National Champion
              LRRS HAWK GT Racer CCS Expert #929
              ECK RACING

              Comment


                #8
                Damn are those new floats? Those are the sparkeliest white ones I have ever seen.

                The float measurement wasn't clear to me at first either. NT is right on there. Here is an attempt at some more info, hopefully doesn't confuse things... There is a tiny plunger on the end of the float valve that is sprung, you want the float valve all the way in the seat, and you want the tang on the float to be touching it, but you don't want to compress that little spring with the tang. This is why the carbs on thier side works best since gravity isn't pushing/pulling on the float itself. When you have it at that point, you measure from the carb body where the float gasket seats to the "top" of the float, perpindicular to the gasket surface. They make a specific gauge for it.

                HTH

                Comment


                  #9
                  9 mm, correct?
                  '99 Ducati 748 with a 996 conversion

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Setting the float was probably the most frustrating part of getting my carbs back together. My first attempt, going by the picture on the Hawk Works manual, had my carb puking fuel out of the air bypass. After re-reading nt650hawk's post it became clear, the "so the float closes very easily till it stops. No more pressure" phrase is what made it possible. Also, suferdude, the manual says 9.2mm (mine is somewhere from 9-9.2mm, I used a home made guage that is close to accurate)
                    1986 Honda NS400R
                    1988 Honda Hawk GT

                    Keep your feet on the pegs and your right hand cranked.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally Posted by ghandi1616 View Post
                      Setting the float was probably the most frustrating part of getting my carbs back together. My first attempt, going by the picture on the Hawk Works manual, had my carb puking fuel out of the air bypass. After re-reading nt650hawk's post it became clear, the "so the float closes very easily till it stops. No more pressure" phrase is what made it possible. Also, suferdude, the manual says 9.2mm (mine is somewhere from 9-9.2mm, I used a home made guage that is close to accurate)
                      I wasn't far off going by memory, but that would make the difference between running right and puking fuel out. A quick review of the manual would have corrected my memory.

                      I think I'll leave the carbs to a pro.
                      '99 Ducati 748 with a 996 conversion

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally Posted by surferdude View Post
                        I think I'll leave the carbs to a pro.
                        You really should give the carbs a go yourself; it appears daunting when you start, but if you follow a guide like Kip's on this site, and work slowly on one half at a time, you'll have no problem.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          i learned a valuable and practicaly ingenious trick to setting float levels from Squirrelman......

                          he blows air into fuel line to carbs and set floats so that air JUST starts to flow when floats move from 9mm to anything more......

                          he's an old man and knows motors!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            This trick may require a video for clarification
                            1986 Honda NS400R
                            1988 Honda Hawk GT

                            Keep your feet on the pegs and your right hand cranked.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Springloaded pin/nipple on the float valve.

                              I've had a backfiring/spluttering problem recently, especially on the overrun when shifting down through my gears. I'm a bit of a novice but took the carbs of and had a look at them. I removed both of the 'float chamber covers' and checked to see of the floats were moving freely and to see if there was anything obvious wrong.
                              One of the floats moved freely and smoothly however the other one wasn't the same. - when you look at the valve it's got a spring loaded pin on the top of it that sticks out a few millimetres right?
                              on the valve that wasn't moving smoothly and freely the 'spring loaded pin' at the top of the valve was jammed out. I tried to free it but it's seized up so I've ordered a new one.

                              Could anyone tell me if this is the likely cause of a backfire or weather it's just a minor problem that will barely affect the running of the bike? I believe this could cause to much fuel to go through?

                              any help would be appreciated, by the way it's a Honda BROS 650

                              Comment

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