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Getting ready to rebuild the stock forks. Need advise.

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  • Getting ready to rebuild the stock forks. Need advise.

    Hopefully this is the last thing I have to rebuild this summer. I bought fork seals and bushings when I first bought the bike. It now time for a rebuild.
    The manual says I have to remove the mirrors master cylinder from the handlebars. Can I not just take off the handlebars and hang them? Can I remove the front wheel and rebuild the forks from the centre stand or do I need to put the bike on the lift?​

  • #2
    If you take the front wheel off from the center stand the bike will fall forward. You need something to hold it up. Some people have used a floor jack under the front of the motor. But you have to be careful. It's not super stable. An under-stem front stand is the way to go.

    You can leave everything on the handle bars and hang them, but you run the risk of banging up the tank and stressing the cables and brake line.

    Again: if you're careful it can work. If one thing goes wrong, you'll be kicking yourself over doing some damage for a long time.

    It's also tricky not to scratch up the front fender.

    The last time I did forks (last week), I did them 1 at a time so I wouldn't have to deal with too much stuff flopping around. The fender stayed in place.

    If you have a piece of plastic pipe (ABS or PVC) that is under 2" OD, you can shove it in from the top as you pull the fork tube out from the bottom. This will keep the handlebar in place.

    If you were looking for a support group you're barking up the wrong tree. This place is fulla enablers dude. - Shooter77us

    The bitterness of low quality lingers long after the thrill of a low price has gone. - RacerX450

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    • #3
      Originally Posted by ParcNHawk
      If you take the front wheel off from the center stand the bike will fall forward. You need something to hold it up. Some people have used a floor jack under the front of the motor. But you have to be careful. It's not super stable. An under-stem front stand is the way to go.

      You can leave everything on the handle bars and hang them, but you run the risk of banging up the tank and stressing the cables and brake line.

      Again: if you're careful it can work. If one thing goes wrong, you'll be kicking yourself over doing some damage for a long time.

      It's also tricky not to scratch up the front fender.

      The last time I did forks (last week), I did them 1 at a time so I wouldn't have to deal with too much stuff flopping around. The fender stayed in place.

      If you have a piece of plastic pipe (ABS or PVC) that is under 2" OD, you can shove it in from the top as you pull the fork tube out from the bottom. This will keep the handlebar in place.
      Okay thanks. I’m pulling the tank to replace the air filter and check the valves. I’ll put the bike jack under it. Good idea to do one at a time

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      • #4
        I actually just did this to my Hawk. I found the manual wasn't that detailed, but I found this series of (4 I think?) videos to be super helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQbJzmb8gm8. Even though it's an NTV, the forks are identical (although he switched up the order of the spring and washer when reassembling, the fsm's diagram is super helpful for this).

        If you don't have a fork seal driver kit (I didn't), you can make your own one with a section of PVC or ABS tube and hose clamps. Just gotta get something with the same/close ID as the OD of the fork tubes. He goes over this a bit in the video, it's just like maybe 3 inches of tube cut lengthwise in half, and hose clamps around that. You gotta really bang those seals in there though, I struggled a bit getting them down far enough to put the retaining snap ring back in. Also, I'd highly recommend using the old seals when driving in new ones with this method, just piece of mind so you don't damage the new seals.

        I used a jackstand without the "jack" part underneath the engine, it was actually the perfect height. I also kept all the controls attached the handlebars, just tied the two together over the middle of the bike so nothing got strained.

        Really was not a difficult job, just requires a bit of patience and time as you really don't want to scratch either of the fork tubes. It's also super messy, I used an old oven pan to drain the forks.

        Hope this helps!

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        • #5
          If you own your place and have a concrete slab what I have done is drill some holes in the concrete to put down some D rings with concrete anchors and just throw a ratchet strap over the wheel and crank down to lift the front end off the ground (using the OEM center stand). The way the bike leans on the center stand kind of keeps it all in check unless you do something really dumb, like try to roll the bike forwards without a front wheel or forks on it, which is not easy to do in that configuration. I don't do the concrete anchor any more because I have a bike lift but I just anchor to that now and still use the ratchet strap when doing fork and front end stuff. Same process, different floor mount is all.
          88 Blue Hawk GT - Under construction but rideable (guest approved)
          89 BlackHawk 2.0 - On the lift and being assembled
          90 Hawk GT (color as to yet be determined) - Still on the shelf in crates

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          • #6
            I just use two little wooden planks to support the front:
            IMG_2543.jpg

            Sure looks like a ghetto solution but it works perfectly fine.

            The technique proposed by ParkNHawk consisting in rebuilding the forks one at a time works great as well.

            Usually you can remove the handlebars without having to remove the master cylinder or anything, but sometimes the cables are a bit short. In which case, you just drop the fork tubes a bit before removing the handlebars, it does the trick.

            I've also designed a 3D printable tool to help replacing the seals, it is available here if you need it:
            I know we have at least two versions of the frame, and there's another member here who would like to share their drawings as well. We will be keeping this thread as a sticky. So with that being said, wildwhl and frinesi2 , feel free to add your files for posterity. Here's a quick reference of parts in this thread: Post #6 -

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            • #7
              I've hung my head tube/bars from a stepladder with some tie downs in a pinch.
              Easy on the throttle, steady on the gears, roll her over gently and she'll last for many years.
              __________________________________________________ ____________
              1988 Grey, Supertrapp stubby, Fox TC, Stage 3 & pods, Vortex clipons, mikuni pump on WW`s batarang, BTT`s res delete, Gino's roller, Brent's sliders and torsion arm, SS thru the SSSA, NC30 rear wheel, & lightened rotor....
              2004 WR450 plated, Trick Dual Sport kit, FMF Power-Bomb Exhaust

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              • #8
                Originally Posted by Big Ian
                I've hung my head tube/bars from a stepladder with some tie downs in a pinch.
                Hanging by the head tube is a good way to go.
                Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

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                • #9
                  I got the fork tubes off no drama yet
                  the bars are supported by a wooden handle I cut. Works good no dangle
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                  • #10
                    ohhhhh............


                    Thats not what i thought we were talking about
                    Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

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                    • #11
                      That's a neat solution.

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                      • #12
                        It’s not pretty but it works.
                        What should I use for fork oil.

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                        • #13
                          Originally Posted by Flatheadfever
                          It’s not pretty but it works.
                          What should I use for fork oil.
                          Are you talking weight or brand?

                          Brand id argue doesnt matter much, others would say other wise. Weight can really depend on your preferance and what you have in there for a setup. I want to say we are using 12.5 on the racebike with 1.0's and i forget the emulator setup.

                          Don't spend money and buy, spend time and learn.

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                          • #14
                            Originally Posted by 6
                            Are you talking weight or brand?
                            There is no standard for fork oil so brand determines weight...

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                            • #15
                              I’m going to use this. Bought local
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