How to get to the rear ignition coil?

[lamelylounges]

Hi folks,

I've got a rough running hawk, and I've tracked the problem down to the rear coil. Rear cylinder is not firing.

Shout-out to a certain Will M / Milktree for directing me to look at the yellow/blue wire and trace it.

In the pic below you can see the female plastic/rubber housing is actually empty inside


thumb_57247.jpg​

And here is my rear coil. As I was following the wire with my fingers (a bit blindly, because that rear coil is hard to see) the wire just fell off the coil. You can see the female connector from the wire is still attached to the male connector of the coil. Oopsie. I'll need to wire up a new connector on that wire.




I'd like to detach the rear coil, clean it up, etc. But it's really buried behind the frame.
Do you all have recommendations on the steps I'll need to do to be able to get at that coil?

(Am I looking at detaching the rear subframe / rear shock, for example?)

Thanks!


EDITED.
Those pics are tiny. You view full size pics here

https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-Gp7Zt3/i-rz3BZpt/A

https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-Gp7Zt3/i-2rxnp6f/A

[Captain 80s]

(Am I looking at detaching the rear subframe / rear shock, for example?)

Not long after my initial Hawk build I was chasing an ignition issue and swapped the coils as a test. I think I managed it by unbolting the coolant tank and letting it move a little, but it still absolutely SUCKED. Multiple extensions, swivel joints, raw knuckles and high blood pressure. I wish I would have just removed the shit around it in hindsight. You can unbolt the sub frame with most everything intact and hang it or support it for better access. On my 92 VFR I was able to fold the detached subframe over with the wire harness and inner fender in place and rest it on the airbox with a blanket.

[flyinelvis]

I had a similar issue a few years back after fabrication of the exhaust. It was extremely frustrating to get to, but somehow after major gyrations i was able to crimp on a new female connector. I promised myself if it ever happened again, I’d be securing and permanently soldering that connection…

[bruceb47]

Remove the two large allen bolts holding the right footrest to the frame. It will swing out of the way to allow access along with all the other stuff attached. The trick with working on motorcycle is remove as little as possible to get to stuff.

[Captain 80s]

The trick with working on motorcycle is remove as little as possible to get to stuff.

One of the tricks with working on (a) motorcycle is knowing that is not always true.

[bk94si]

I remember removing mine ages ago. I don't remember how I did it anymore but I do remember doing to whole job by feel because I couldn't see anything.

[lamelylounges]

Finally got enough Round Tuits to get this job completed.

I ended up unbolting the rear subframe and also detaching a bit of the doodads, like the fuel filter, in the neighborhood of the rear shock upper mounting bolt.
I did also unmount the right footpeg bracket.
Then I was able to swing the subframe off to the side

image.png

Thar she blows!!!

image.png

Here's the culprit. The yellow/blue wire connected had corroded and just felt off.

image.png

Normally I prefer to solder my wiring, but after reading up a bit on my options and noting that the original connector is not soldered, I opted to use crimped butt connectors.
Also applied a healthy amount of dielectric grease in the hopes of preventing future corrosion.
Hopefully, this will last until I'm resting in the pine box.

image.png

Back together and running normally again.

[flyinelvis]

More than one way to skin a cat! Nice job…

[6]

Nice, that is the dumbest placement for that thing.

[69Falcon]

Nice, that is the dumbest placement for that thing.

I remember when we had to fab the bracket on the daisy bike for the rear coil, took hours to get it right.