failed tank coating

[Mistavincent Find all posts View Profile Close Mistavincent]

hi all,

So after many reading and trying i have cleared a GT650 Hawk tank from all the rust and used a 2k coating but it seems it's not latching to the tank and some places are releasing from the tank.
What do you advise to do, put some fuel in it, shake around and see what comes out and put another shot of 2k coating in it or try to remove it somehow?
20210622_211525.jpg

[Captain 80s Find all posts View Profile Close Captain 80s]

Is that RedKote?

[bk94si Find all posts View Profile Close bk94si]

Remove it all and re-coat with Caswell or POR-15.

[Captain 80s Find all posts View Profile Close Captain 80s]

Remove it all and re-coat with Caswell or POR-15.

^ +1

[Mistavincent Find all posts View Profile Close Mistavincent]

Remove it all and re-coat with Caswell or POR-15.

do you know what to use to remove it? can you remove it with electrolysis ?

[Mistavincent Find all posts View Profile Close Mistavincent]

Is that RedKote?

it's something they sell here in The Netherlands called Tapox tank coating

[behindthetimes UN-BANNED. Again.. Find all posts View Profile Close behindthetimes]

Is that RedKote?

Redkote works pretty well.Just saying.

[Mistavincent Find all posts View Profile Close Mistavincent]

yeah redkote is not selling in The Netherlands

[behindthetimes UN-BANNED. Again.. Find all posts View Profile Close behindthetimes]

At this point......you need major solvent and a couple boxes of 8mm nuts...and shake it for a day or 2.
What can you get?
What does that manufacturer of Tapox suggest?
I had to strip a Kream coating and eventually I used a POR-15 kit....

But the RedKote we use here is commonly used in Auto Radiator shops.....they have autos in the Netherlands,right?
I'm sure they use something similar......worth a shot.

[behindthetimes UN-BANNED. Again.. Find all posts View Profile Close behindthetimes]

Count the nuts.

[Yoshihns Find all posts View Profile Close Yoshihns]

Just going to say good luck. At least it looks like a nice thick coating. Should break off nicely.

You need to get that stuff out of that tank. Not sure how. Some sort of solvent probably. Try acetone?

I took a tank to a radiator shop who said they could clean the rust out of a tank for me. It looked like they just used redkote right over the tank, rust and all. Started flaking off almost immediately. Took it back, and they somehow blasted it all out. And the rust was still there...

So maybe a more reputable radiator shop could hot tank the whole tank. Probably have to repaint it afterwards, but then it's clean.

[rpcraft Find all posts View Profile Close rpcraft]

I was watching some youtube videos and the most successful will be acetone for removing the old liner from what info I have gathered but I suspect that is good as long as you do not have an Epoxy type finish. If you have an epoxy tank liner than what you might want to check into is finding someone that has a burn off oven, to get the liner out, and then someone after that who can use silver solder to seal up any seam leaks, then line it again, and then paint it.

I've been battling varnish issues so that is a whole other kind of problem but because of that have been doing a lot of reading and video watching to see the results and I am pretty sure when I get done with that battle i'll start on rust correction and future prevention.

As far as getting rid of rust there are a few recipes for that but I do not feel that pouring nuts in the tank are a good idea on the Hawk. It's a bitch to get all the fluid out normally much less some nuts and stuff. Just my input though.

would stick to using some Strong Vinegar first, then if you need to move up in strength check into Muriatic acid and just dilute it for removal. Once you get to that point you can use a phosphorous based rust convertor. It will turn the rust into a black surface finish that you should be able to coat at that point. I have not gotten to the finish line yet but once I get the varnish broken down I am going to use some electrolysis to just remove as much surface rust as I may have in the tank, and then at that point I got a kit from KBS that is good for up to a 5 gallon tank. Was about 42 bucks on Amazon.

Amazon tank kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I got the idea for this rust convertor off a ytube video as well and tried it out on the inside of my K5 Jimmy project (also on fenders wells and other stuff that had a lot of surface rust and it actually works.

Home depot cheap Phosporic rust converter/protector:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-St...0220/100406369

[rpcraft Find all posts View Profile Close rpcraft]

Another video somewhat related. This fellow is breaking down Varnish but I think it will work on the coating even better and I have been using the MEK on my tank to break down the varnish. I am used to seeing MEK used in turning powder coat into a liquid (for touch up applications) and it's terrible for your health but it will break down most polymer chain products (which is why it is so bad for you). Use gloves, eyewear, and a respirator mask (meaning not one of the 3m N85 dust masks) if you find the MEK and go down that road and do it in an extremely well ventilated area.

[behindthetimes UN-BANNED. Again.. Find all posts View Profile Close behindthetimes]

Just going to say good luck. At least it looks like a nice thick coating. Should break off nicely.

You need to get that stuff out of that tank. Not sure how. Some sort of solvent probably. Try acetone?

I took a tank to a radiator shop who said they could clean the rust out of a tank for me. It looked like they just used redkote right over the tank, rust and all. Started flaking off almost immediately. Took it back, and they somehow blasted it all out. And the rust was still there...

So maybe a more reputable radiator shop could hot tank the whole tank. Probably have to repaint it afterwards, but then it's clean.

Here's what you do......get the tank steamed out at the radiator shop...If you're able the MOMENT they finish...have them spray a can of WD40 in there.....
which gives you time to get ready to re-coat.. Rinse the WD40 out with a solvent (acetone a good one.) and coat as soon as it dries.....extremetly hot rinses will heat the metal and make it dry to give you an opportunity to work.
If you have it blasted.....and it comes back rusted(like where you are??) get a can of The Works toilet bowl cleaner or one with the same chemical....fill with H2o and the Works....24 hours ,rinse with HOT-you're rust free and ready to coat.

[behindthetimes UN-BANNED. Again.. Find all posts View Profile Close behindthetimes]

RP.....the nuts do take time.....but there are no areas of the Hawk tank where they get lost. Only use this method if you have no help.The agitation of the nuts really helps break off a coating.
Then again.....you gotta be MAN ENOUGH(dumb enough?) to actually pick that tank up and shake it......